The Wandering Soul's Wander Tales..: ladakh

Spiti or Ladakh? How to choose between the two arid jewels of Himalayas

When I first visited Ladakh in 2008, it ended up becoming my most impulsive trip ever! With no prior information, no prior planning, no proper clothing, me and my family took off on a whim from Srinagar ditching Kullu/Manali and had the adventure of our lifetime. Luckily at that point, Ladakh was still wild, pristine and lived up to its reputation as one of the most badass road trips in the world. Flights weren't as common as they are today and getting Leh'd meant not just Pangong or Khardunga La. It was the promise of a rugged journey that was the defining trait of a Ladakh road trip. Leh - Manali Highway and Leh - Srinagar road journeys were as harrowing as legendary. Pangong wasn't a place where 3 Idiots was shot and Khardung La was not a place where boys would get semi naked for a selfie!

Ladakh wasn't a destination then, it was more a feeling of arriving blind into an unknown land crossing unexpected hurdles. In the age of death-by-information-overload and listicles pontificating in painful detail about how you should feel when visiting Ladakh, the charm of the once undisputed king of offbeat journeys is at the end of its tether burdened by its own glorious past.

Dusk at Mudh, Pin Valley National Park, Spiti

Meanwhile, Spiti, that has always played second fiddle to its more famous cousin, is slowly creeping up into the mainstream zeitgeist as an alternative to the now-bucketlisted-and-discarded Ladakh. With a reasonably well-to-do agrarian community, Spiti hasn't yet fully woken up to its so-called "tourism" potential and that has become its biggest hallmark! It's amazing that a small strip of a valley could give such fierce competition to the vastness of Ladakh but that's probably a true testament to the allure of pristine mountain cultures and landscapes.

While both Ladakh and Spiti share a similar culture and landscape, the resemblance is only skin-deep. Beyond the prejudices and preferences of eager travellers, both Spiti and Ladakh have plenty to offer to the discerning and it's hard to pick one over the other. However, based on personal proclivities and travel styles, you could have an easier time of choosing one because unfortunately in real world, we can't have it all. If by any chance you can, go to Spiti and Ladakh both!

If not, this table might help you decide.

P.S - In case you're wondering why you should listen to me, I have been to Ladakh six times and Spiti thrice so far.

Minimum time required to reach (Ex-Delhi)
Tashigong, frontier village in Spiti	Thicksey Monastery in Ladakh
SPITI	LADAKH
2 Days	1hr
Ease of Access
It takes at least 2 days to get in and 2 more to get out. The journeys are long and tiring. You'll have to reach either Manali or Shimla and change another bus/jeep to get to Spiti. From Manali, it takes a day and from Shimla, it takes 2 days by road. Comfort Level: Low	There was once a time where reaching Leh took at least 3 days. Now all it takes is two flights from down south and you're there at the roof of the world in half a day! Also, the roads are much better compared to Spiti. Comfort Level: High
Open Season
Technically open all year round but road blocks are common and travel within the valley is restricted during off season, which is pretty much most of the year except June to October.	Open all year around thanks to flights. Within Ladakh, roads are kept open by the Indian army so you can get around easily all through the year.
Tourist Infrastructure
Minimal There are now guesthouses/homestays in many of the major villages across Spiti but getting around isn't as easy as Ladakh. You'll have to hitchhike or walk if you don't come with your own vehicle. There's only one ATM in the valley and forget Internet while you're here.	Well developed All ranges of hotels/guesthouses available and it's very easy to find a shared ride to many of the famous places of Ladakh. Multi cuisine restaurants, Internet cafes, Bike/Equipment Rentals, Trek Operators etc, you have all of these in Leh.
Altitude and Acclimatization
Most of the villages in Spiti are at a height in between 3800m and 4500m, which makes acclimatization a major concern considering it is not easy to get out of the valley. Kaza is the only place that has a big hospital which proves to be inadequate most of the time since the only cure to AMS is going to lower altitude.	Leh is at 3500m but all other places of interest are between 4000m and 5800m high. Acclimatization wise, Leh is a perfect base to get your body used to the low oxygen before heading into higher grounds. Evacuation out of Leh, in case of a casualty, is super convenient and there are plenty of army camps across the region to help with basic medical aid in worst case scenario.
Major Attractions
In Spiti, the biggest attraction at the moment is the lack of crowd. Here, you can still expect to walk into a village or a food joint/cafe and strike up a conversation with fellow travellers or locals. The villages are much more atmospheric, accessible and picturesque. Highly recommended for solo/independent travellers and those who enjoy sauntering.	The variety of landscape in Ladakh is unparalleled. From shimmering blue lakes to vast plateaus to big mountains, there's plenty to see here. The area is so huge, you can escape the crowds easily whenever you want to. Brok Pa people, Islamic community, Buddhists, Changthang nomads and more. There's a huge variety in the culture as well. I want to add landscapes again because the scenery in Ladakh is so epic, I can't explain in words but perhaps repetition will drive home the point.
Going Offbeat
Kind of difficult to go offbeat in Spiti as there are not many options in the valley to be fair. But it works now because entire Spiti itself is offbeat so far, like how Ladakh was probably 10 years ago. Any exploits to go beyond the usual path would require a lot of planning and support from locals. The valley's only artery, the national highway is limiting when it comes to exploration. However, smaller metal roads to the far flung villages of the valley can provide an exhilarating alternative to those interested in offroading.	Ladakh is so vast, it's a gold mine for offbeat explorers. Beyond the well trodden paths, there's a whole other world waiting to be explored. Since it is also an army bastion, there are little traversed routes that can take you to the most remote corners of the region like Chumur, Demchok, Hanle, Chushul etc. Ladakh is the classic case of the journey being more important that the destination. You might have seen Pangong Tso before but reaching there through Chushul/Tsaga La in Changthang or via Agham/Shyok route from Hunder is the stuff that dreams are made of!
Best suited for
Culture vultures/Independent travellers	Landscape lovers/Road trip aficionados
Lakes
Dhankar Lake and Chandratal, both need hiking. Vehicles can't reach	Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri among many others. Vehicles can reach both. P.S - Spiti's lakes are no match for these two mammoths!
Monasteries
Kye and Dhankar whose location and setting is unmatched! There are plenty of old monasteries in Spiti apart from these two but none as big as those in Ladakh.	There are more monasteries here in Ladakh than you can visit. You'll be spoilt for choice.

Advice for first timers:

Despite reading all the differences and still unsure which one to choose out of the two, here's my advice.
If you're only going to visit Leh, Pangong, Tso Moriri and Khardung La in Ladakh, I'd recommend Spiti as you'll have a much more immersive experience there when compared to the now done-to-death Ladakh trip. In case you'll be going beyond these well known places, I'd recommend Ladakh all the way!

Kiagar Tso, Ladakh

Does this help you decide between Spiti and Ladakh?

Let me know in the comments if you need me to add something else!

34 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

general

When Strange Places Feel Like Home

Two months ago, I had this momentous epiphany that I should be giving up the apartment, my belongings, a stable base and live out of a backpack. I gave my two months notice to the house owner, packed up my stuff and made plans to call the road home. And the first place I wanted to go back to, as a nomad, was a strange place that was never comfortable, always had great adventures in store for me and felt like another planet to someone who comes from the land of bright tropical sunshine - Ladakh!

Leh Palace, glowing on a winter morning

I always thought, as a wandering soul at heart, I would never want to call one place home. But here in Ladakh, every single time I arrive, I feel at home. Including last month’s journey, I’ve been here five times already - thrice in summers and twice in winters! I returned this time thinking I’ll be back again coming summer. I often wonder, how is it that a place can call out to me again and again, and again?

But what makes a place feel like home?

Familiarity? Probably.

Novelty? Certainly not!

The first time I arrived in Ladakh, it was like novelty hit me in the gut and assaulted my senses ceaselessly. I never knew Himalayas were so dry, muddy and so majestic. The oxygen deprivation was a completely new sensation altogether and the proximity to sky-high mountains was inexplicably nostalgic - having grown up in plains, those were memories probably from my past life.

It was here in these mountains that I first experienced freedom in its purest form. Sitting on the banks of a solitary Pangong, then untainted by the consumerist hogwash, I felt like I arrived at the end of the world. Except for a handful of vehicles, the disastrous human touch was delightfully absent and the untarnished natural beauty of the blue lake was mine and only mine to savour. It’s been 7 years since I first set foot in this enchanted land, I’ve seen the place change over the years - from blissful desolateness to pitiful commercialization. I’ve seen the place grow, I’ve explored it’s nooks and corners - I’ve gone from the marshlands of Chushul to the tribes of Dah Hanu, reached scintillating heights of Stok Kangri to freezing depths of Chadar. I’ve followed the trail of a Snow Leopard and watched dozens of Kiangs(Wild Asses) run amok across the cold desert. Every time I’m here, a sense of belonging and a rush of familiarity washes me over.

Flowers on the way to Hemis Monastery

I do not live here, but I see a friendly face on every corner. I did not grow up here, but there’s always someone who recognizes me here. I do not belong here, but my body adjusts perfectly fine to the high altitudes & freezing temperatures here. My mind - it takes flight here! There is something in these hills that reminds me of a place called home, that was never mine to begin with.

Last January, when I was worried sick about walking on Chadar(it’s a frozen river for god’s sake, which can break anytime!), I completed the trek without any incident. Our guide said, this was a rare occurance that we finished the trek without any weather related trouble or the need to wade barefoot through freezing waters. This year, when I went back, Ladakh welcomed me with a warm heart in the dead of winter by showing me its colorful festival welcoming summers! Feels like Ladakh takes care of me, always.

Dosmoche Festival, marking the beginning of summer

How many times have we made silent promises that we’ll be back somewhere and how many times have we actually gone back? With Ladakh, I go back every single time I make that promise. I’ve been to thousand other places since my journey started at Ladakh and till today Ladakh is one of the very few places that truly feels like home - oxygen deprivation, lack of greenery and freezing temperatures notwithstanding! Sometimes the strangest of places feel like home and perhaps the magic lies exactly in not knowing why.

Ladakh is my strange beloved place I can call home, what’s yours?

26 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure

When I went walking on a Frozen River {Chadar Trek} - A Photo Story

Zanskar river, in Ladakh, is a river so furious that there is no stillness in its wake. The currents and rapids are so forceful, they carved out a deep gorge through the indomitable mountains. Even the mighty Himalayas had to give in to this force creating gorgeous yet inaccessible canyons. The roar of the river reverberates in the valleys and even in the vast open spaces. However, come winter, a strange silence falls upon this place. There are few birds and fewer trees, there is no noise except for the occasional swooshing of wind passing by your ears.

The river freezes.

Chadar - The Frozen Zanskar River

But it is this very same stillness that mends a connection once a year, every year. The frozen river becomes the only road that connects the remote mountain villages of Zanskar to the rest of the world during the harsh winter months. There are no roads to many of these villages. During summers, they stay disconnected and cocooned in their own world. For centuries, walking on the frozen river to get out was the preferred route. The only other suicidal alternative was to climb over several high altitude passes over several days. From month long expeditions to week long hikes, the Chadar as it is known, has been shrinking and the road is nearing completion. In the next few years, there might not be a frozen river in Zanskar. But for now, the ice forms and we walk on it in minus temperatures. (Wondering how to prepare to walk on a frozen river in subzero temperatures? - Read this)

Here's my story and of the river's, as we trudged in subzero temperatures over the ever-changing Chadar for 11 days.

The confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers, the one on the left is Indus. Till a decade from now, Chadar used to form till here. Expeditions to Zanskar valley were at least a 30 day affair, a far cry from today's one week short walks. The road you see to the left didn't exist. Today, even the Chadar doesn't fully form.

Clear nights are a good sign. It means the Chadar won't possibly break and will remain intact. The starry skies look splendid but it is hard to admire the celestial opulence when every inch of your body is struggling to stay warm in the minus temperatures. We don't hang around outside much unless there's a fire going on. There are limited dried up juniper trees next to the river side, they provide the much needed warmth.

This is the Chadar, meaning blanket in Hindi - A blanket of ice. Beneath these volatile sheets, flow waters that run deep. The ice forms during the winters, in January/February to be precise. This is what we walked upon for over a week. The ice is ever-changing, it breaks, moves, flips, forms and breaks again. There's never the same sight to be seen again. In a day, the Chadar can change completely.

The Chadar breaks often, in such cases we try to cross over the banks as seen here. If not, we wade through the bone-chilling waters to get to solid frozen section of the river. Luckily we had very few ankle deep water crossings. Rest of the time clambering up the rocky and rickety slopes got us through.

It is bad news when it snows. It might seem counterintuitive but it gets warm when it snows. This warmth causes the Chadar to melt, break and water to flow over the Chadar. However, the snow makes the walking very easy. The normally glossy sheets of ice, when covered in snow provide much needed friction. This arrests the otherwise inevitable multiple slips and falls.

This takes some getting used to, walking on thin ice ledges with deep waters running right next to you. One can never tell when it'll break. I saw a Thai hiker fall knee deep through the ice sheet on a ledge like this right in front of me. My heart skipped a beat. So must have his. He got up and started walking and so did I. Well, what can I say? It's all part of the Chadar experience.

The famous frozen waterfall of Nerak and the old bridge used during the summers in the distance. It was snowing relentlessly that day and we walked with the powdery snow hitting our faces ever so gently. The skies were gray and the mountain tops were covered in a white mist. It was strange mix of raw nature and gentle beauty. Things could've gone wrong, bad weather in the mountains is no joke. But as long as they don't, it is only beautiful, extremely.

From Nerak, we took an extended deviation to the remote village of Lingshed. We left the river and followed the trail of a small stream flowing through narrow gorges. The gorges were as narrow as just under a meter wide at places. After the monotonous walk on the river, this route brought as an exciting change in scenery. I was initially much disinterested but as spectacular views opened up, I quite enjoyed the walk. We climbed over huge rocks, narrow ledges alongside deep slopes and it was all covered in white except for the blue sky above. But in the end, all I remember is the cold and the white snow.

Lingshed village is one of the many remote yet beautiful villages hidden in the valleys of Himalayas. With a handful of houses and a monastery, Lingshed is remoteness personified. Surrounded by snow covered mountains on all sides, living in a place like this, even for a day, puts things into perspective. It takes 2 days for them to reach out to civilization, by walking over the frozen river. Otherwise, during summers they trek over high passes.

On the third day when it was snowing incessantly, we thought it'd be a good idea to climb up to Nerak village on a steep snow-ridden trail late evening. It wasn't a good idea, it was a bad idea but the effort was worth it. The pretty village was completely snow ridden, the evening was very cold and we were shivering. But a helpful villager offered us shelter and warmth. On our way back, we slid, got stuck on steep slopes, had our hearts in our mouths several times but made it back in one piece. Some adventures are to be had.

My gumboots and one of the many forms of Chadar, the frozen bubbles are seen through the glossy ice here. It feels wonderfully weird to walk on ice where we can see beneath our feet, the stones, the bubbles and the cracks. There's never a dull moment on the Chadar, despite the monotonicity of the idea of walking on a river for weeks. The Chadar keeps you on your feet and leaves you only with a lifetime of memories. One of the most interesting treks I have ever come across, I'm glad to have experienced this truly unique adventure.

So how did you enjoy this virtual adventure through of the frozen territories of Ladakh? Tell me in the comments. :)

45 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure

Chadar Trek - How to prepare to walk on a frozen river in subzero temperatures?

For the longest time I shied away from this trek thinking of the extreme weather conditions. As much as I’d like to call Himalayas home, I am a plain-dwelling, sunshine-loving mere mortal after all. Extreme cold is not my thing and that’s exactly what Chadar trek is all about – crazy subzero temperatures day & night! Think temperatures ranging from -1ºC to -20ºC.

Frozen Zanskar River, Chadar Trek, Ladakh

Chadar means a blanket, a blanket of ice that forms over the Zanskar River during winters. Zanskar is a wild river flowing through the gorgeous ravines and inaccessible canyons of Ladakh. In winters, specifically during January and February, the river freezes and calms down. She lets the locals trapped in the remote Zanskar valley to walk over her and reach civilization in case of any emergencies.

Of course the fad these days is trekkers like you and me who go there to walk on the frozen river for exclusive bragging rights and a unique experience to last a lifetime! And even though we aren’t prepared to handle the extreme cold, with some preparation, as I find out, we can very well trek and enjoy it as well. So here are my top tips that might help you endure and enjoy Chadar better.

Cold is just a state of mind

The day I landed in Leh, the temperature outside was below zero and it was biting cold. I couldn’t last outside for more than few minutes before I scrambled back to the heated room. The next day was no better and neither was the third day. But meanwhile, as we started walking and camping, the body was slowly adjusting to the subzero temperatures and by the end of the trek, it wasn’t that cold anymore. Cold is surely a state of mind, keep saying this to yourself. Prepare mentally more than physically for this trek and you are good to go!

Too cold? Fret not, hand & body warmers will be your saviors

I am someone whose hands and feet get very cold, even with ample protection. So you cannot imagine my joy when I was given these nifty little things that kept me so warm and safe to say, sane. These warmers are small one-time use exothermic pouches that release heat using up oxygen and last up to 10hours or more. They go comfortably into your gloves, socks or jacket and keep you incredibly warm. They are apparently used all over the cold weather countries but I had never heard or seen them until this trek. And from now on, I’m never going anywhere cold without these. This is what they look like - http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Body-Super-Warmer-count/dp/B0007ZF4Q8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389717306&sr=8-1&keywords=body+warmers. In India, you can find these in Delhi apparently. I got these from two very helpful fellow American trekkers.

Update - Tracked the whereabouts! Pricey, but yay! :) Adventure 18 store in Delhi sells handwarmers and footwarmers. If anyone has used them, please leave a comment below on how well they work.
Also here's a handy list of all adventure equipment selling stores in India, check with these places as well, they might have stock too - Camping and Trekking Equipment in India

Gumboots rule the day, not your fancy hiking shoes

Gumboots cost 350Rs and they are hands down the best thing you can buy for Chadar trek. They have good grip, they keep you warm and dry and they work like a charm on the Chadar. Your normal hiking shoes will be comfortably tucked into your backpack while these magic boots do all the hard work. Take my advice, leave your bulky shoes home and thank me later. If you don’t have hiking shoes, don’t buy them only for Chadar, carry your running shoes and walk in the gumboots. I did the entire trek in these knee length boots and have no complains!

Sleeping Bag keeps everything warm. Carry an extra one

It gets very cold and windy by night, two sleeping bags or a liner + sleeping bag is a must. If your trek agency isn’t providing you two bags, carry your own sleeping bag. You need good sleep and you don’t want to be cold in the night. And tuck your water bottle, socks, gloves and whatever it is that you want to stay warm in the morning inside your sleeping bag. Anything left outside will be frozen and super cold.

When in Rome, act like Roman i.e. do what the locals do

The locals walk on the Chadar as if it is a piece of cake! They walk fast and take strides like a penguin on the slippery ice. They knock the ice sheet when in doubt and sometimes they just keep their feet through the broken ice. They know what they are doing. At least on the first few days, observe them and shadow them. Do not cross and go on your own until you can gauge the Chadar. After 2-3 days you will be an expert too but until then, watch and learn. Trust me, falling into the icy cold water is no fun. No, I didn’t fall but I can imagine the horror.

If you fall, rise and shine.

This is a fact you have to make peace with. You will slip and fall, yes, there is no escaping. At least on the initial days you will. There is nothing wrong in falling down, we are not used to walking on glossy shiny frozen sheets of uneven ice. When you fall down, roll over on your knees and get up slowly and resume the walk. If luck is on your side, fresh snow will cover the glossy ice sheets making it easy to walk otherwise be prepared to fall down and get up a lot. Don’t worry, everybody falls, even the locals. It is just a part of the experience!

Keep your electronics close to your heart

Cold drains out charge out of electronics very fast. Extreme cold drains the charge even faster. Keep all the batteries safely tucked in your jacket pockets. If the battery is blinking low, warm it enough and you can use it for some more time. I carried 3 batteries and stored them in gloves and jacket pockets when not in use. Had enough charge to shoot 64GB!

Extra pair of socks will keep you warm in campsites

The only downside of walking in gumboots is that the sweat collects in your shoes and dampens the socks. Yes, you will sweat while you walk but you won’t feel it until you rest at the campsite. While you are walking, your feet will still feel very warm in gumboots. Keep a spare pair of socks for when you reach campsite, changing into fresh pair of warm socks will feel so good I can’t even tell you. It is something you have to experience yourself.

Leh Market has the best stock to deal with the cold

The Tibetan Markets in Leh have the best stuff to protect you from the cold. Ranging from insulated snow-proof pants to warm woolen socks, you can get all the gear you need for Chadar in these markets. In fact I would suggest you to buy woolens in Leh rather than some fancy city shops. Spend an afternoon wandering in the market to pick up a lot of useful and handy stuff. Worked well for me.

You can carry your metal Quechua bottle without the fear of frostbite

When I think subzero temperatures, I think frozen water. But at times during the trek, neither the river freezes entirely nor the water in your bottle. And neither does the metal bottle give you frostbite. You are always given hot water and gloves are almost always on, so no frostbite. And with the metal bottle, you can use it to warm your hands and keep it inside your sleeping bag as well for warmth. So don’t hesitate to carry those metals bottles and flasks if you want to.

Pick up the chocolate wrappers please?

This is not a tip but a request. I collected so many centerfresh and other candy wrappers thrown on the pristine Chadar that it makes me sad. We go to these places and litter like it’s nobody’s business. Please pick up those wrappers and take them with you. I would like to ask people to stop throwing the candy covers but if they are not listening, I hope one of you will pick up the wrappers at least, whatever keeps Chadar clean.

So now, who all are ready for the Chadar Trek?

I just got back from Chadar Trek 2 days ago and these are my top tips to enjoy the very unique frozen river trek. Let me know in the comments if you have any other questions.

82 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Chushul

Tso Moriri To Pangong via Chushul, Through The Road Less Taken!

All roads lead to Pangong!

Well with Ladakh, once is not enough, twice is not enough, an entire lifetime is not enough. Ladakh is the stuff dreams are made of. Road trips can never be the same again, after a tryst with this gorgeous piece of land set in high heavens!

Most of us who have been fortunate enough to travel to Ladakh would've visited the dream like yet totally real Pangong Lake. We would've crossed the almost always snow clad mighty Chang La and would've relished that hot cup of tea and the warm welcome from the Indian Army atop. We would've gradually descended into the Changthang only to have our heart skip a beat at the first sight of an electric blue strip and would've said a silent prayer hoping Pagal Nallah wouldn't turn crazy by the end of the day.

Those were the days of yore it appears. Pangong today is a different story altogether. After dear Aamir Khan showed the world what a heavenly lake could mean, the repercussions were kind of disappointing to say the least. Hordes of tourists, a million tents/rooms and a gazillion vehicles all along the 7km stretch from Lukung to Spangmik is what awaits today at the tranquil location. The first time, save for a few visiting vehicles along the shore, there wasn't a single piece of evidence suggesting human presence in the area. No tents, no resorts, no roads, just the awesome lake and the mountains. Today I see some sort of sheds by the shore too. Why don't we build a bridge on top and then maybe an underwater resort too!

Whining apart, Pangong still remains a work of art, beautiful and wonderful by all means. I just need to find new ground and new perspective, which is why I took the road less traveled to rediscover the magic of the azure waters.

As of today there are two approaches to Pangong, one from Lukung, which is one end of the lake. The other one is through the other end, via Chushul leading to Khaktse, Merak, Man and finally to Lukung. This route skirts dangerously close to international border making the journey all the more exciting. This way we'd also be able to see the entire 40kms of Pangong that lies with India.

Details of the route in detail -

Route - Tso Moriri - Mahe - Nyoma - Loma - Tsaga - Rezang La - Chushul - Khaktse (Pangong Start) - Merak - Man - Spangmik - Lukung (Pangong End)

How to reach - Retrace the route from Tso Moriri to Mahe bridge. At this checkpost after crossing the bridge, take right. Left goes to Karu and then Leh. Right goes towards Pangong. Proceed on this route till you cross Noma and reach Loma, where you find another checkpost and a bridge. If you cross the bridge, you'd go towards Hanle. Keep left, you'll reach Chushul.

How many days - The journey can be comfortably finished in a day. Be sure to have an early start at Tso Moriri so that you can enjoy the route without hurry.

Things to note - Although the route if now officially opened for domestic tourists, it still doesn't have a lot of takers except for some crazy travelers. Chances are you might not see any vehicle the entire stretch. If you are lucky you'd cross an army vehicle or two. Be prepared for any emergency. Carry extra fuel and food as well. Chushul will be the only major settlement you'd come across over the entire day till you reach Pangong.

Inner Line Permit - ILP is available at the DC office in Leh. Either you can get it yourself or your travel agent can arrange it for you. Only your names will be required. Be sure to include all these names in the ILP to avoid any problems - Mahe, Nyoma, Tsaga, Rezang La, Chushul, Merak and Man. Since this route goes along the Indo-Sino border, Border Police can reject permission anytime.

Who can go - As of today(2010) only domestic visitors can get the ILP for this route. If you are planning this route, make sure all are Indian Nationals and carry valid ID. Foreigners are not permitted on this route.
*Update* - Please check with the concerned officials on this rule, might have changed since.

Condition of the route - Although this is the shortest way to reach Pangong from Tso - Moriri, it will take a long time due to the road conditions. There is well laid tarmac until Loma but after that the road condition slowly deteriorates and becomes almost invisible by the end of it. As the tarmac disappears, you can see tracks ahead and follow them. There are stacks of stones all along the route to let you know the direction. Follow them as well. An hour or two after you cross Chushul, you will be treated to the first glimpses of the mighty Pangong Lake, tracks might disappear around here but you be sure to take a left here at this junction. You would see a road going to right but don't be tempted to follow that, that will lead you to China!

Now I'll let the photos speak!

The fact that this route is so less taken already makes it feel like some exotic land. The colors of the mountains and the salt marches only add to the scene! Towards Nyoma.

The mountains turn purple around here and the colors are unbelievable, have to be seen to be believed!

As the purple disappears, the sands appear. In the distance you can see High Altitude Desert! As you enter the army area, barricades along the road, you find stallions here and there and a dead carcass by the road side to remind you of the awesome remoteness you are traversing though.

"This is a notified firing range Do not enter into it as it can endanger your life" the board says! Some thrill it is, to be in place such as this!

The desert hasn't left us yet, but neither has faint remnants of greenery. Green grass along the foothills of mammoth sand mountains and a lone Kiang wanders along.

The rivers keeps us company all the way until Loma, where we finally part ways. But until then what a charm it will be. The lonely road, mountains all around and the meandering of one gorgeous River alongside.

After Loma, the Kiangs can be found every now and then along with other wild animals. Keep your eyes wide open and I promise you will spot something spectacular.

The road has long disappeared and these tracks are all that remains of a previous quest by some other traveler. Follow the tracks all along and they will lead you to your destination. By now greenery is gone, wildlife is gone, the road is gone and all that is there is this barren magnificent vastness.

Somewhere before reaching Rezang La Memorial I see this pile of horns by the side and it absolutely freaks me out! The winds blow at a high speed swooshing past my ears and there is not a soul around, not even any signs of civilization. My heart beats fast as I get out of the SUV and walk alone towards the pile expecting anything to jump at me. I take this photo and scurry back to the jeep as if something chased me. Heart beat returns to normal and we drive away!

In the vastness, there lies a speck of color in the desert. As you come closer you will see it is a memorial in honor of the Rezang La War Heroes. A sad story of valor and gallantry you will find out as you read the boards there. Do stop over and take a look.

And we finally arrive at Chushul, you'd be surprised to find it to be a rather big village. Just around the village you will be able to see the Chushul Salt Marshes where the endangered Black Necked Cranes migrate to, every year. You will also be able to see Spangur Gap.

And the first view of the destination. The blue strip of the amazing Lake now will keep you company for the next 40kms showing you all kind of shades of blues! Like I said, don't take the right, it will lead you to China!

The landscape is out of this world as you reach the shore, the mountains welcome you, gentle waves invite you the extravaganza and the clouds don't want to be left out, they will create some drama too! Sit on the white sand and enjoy the serenity!

There, in a single photo so many shades of blue! What happens over the next two three hours, I can't explain in words. The route is just a track going by the lake side as she decides to change her color according to her changing moods! Many a times you'd feel like you would just drop into the lake but the mud holds its ground and let's you pass. Long after this first view you will reach Khaktse village, don't panic if you don't see anybody for a long time. After Khakste, you will cross Merak where you will find a checkpost, then Man, Spangmik and
you have arrived!

58 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Avalanche Lake

Chasing Rainbows - A Photo Essay.

16 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Aryan Descendants

Anecdotes from Ladakh - The Aryan Descendants and the Storm.

Luck favors the brave.

Tonight it was going to be a full moon night. For a month before that day I meticulously planned the trip to detail so I would spend this day by the shores of the glorious Pangong Lake. The moon would shine in all its glory and so would the lake. It was a dream since my first visit to the lake way back in 2008.

I was thinking about this while I saw the storm gaining momentum high up in the mountains. A traveler has no fixed plans, even more so in the mighty Himalayas. Weather played spoilsport. All my meticulous planning was blown to dust as the weather created havoc. With great difficulty the trip even took off. Today I wouldn’t be going to Pangong after all. I was visiting the Aryan Settlement of Ladakh, a village called Dah.

As we reached the checkpost at Dah, I asked the guard at the gate how to go to Dah and he replied with a curious alacrity “up this mountain”. I asked him how long it would take, again with a cheeky smile he replied “we do it in just about 20 minutes, you might take much more time“. Well I respected him for the job he was doing else I would’ve really told him off, in my mind of course. It was still raining and if we go ahead, it would be into the troubled land of Batalik. My parents said they will sit in the car and if I wanted I could go up and come. But the only problem was, there did not seem to be a path to the village and what if I get lost on my way up.

Well anyway, the weather didn’t look any better than it was before and it showed no signs of getting better either. Well trekking up a muddy mountain with loose rocks everywhere, in the rain, so close to the Line of Control, all alone wasn’t something I fancied to do. But I kept saying to myself that you cannot turn back after coming all this way neelima, go ahead. Dar ke aage jeet hai, hai na?

In the rain I started to climb up the mountain. Since there was no trail, I followed the stream which was flowing down. It was quite a steep ascent, but as I went up, the rain stopped. Then I saw some plastic lying around, so I was close to civilization after all. After some more climbing I finally saw a house, and then the village.

It looked deserted. The village was on top of the mountain, where they had houses and fields in front of the houses. There were higher mountains all around. There was another stream which was flowing wildly in the valley. I see no people yet, till the sound of drums broke the eerie silence. I went ahead to find a huge gathering who looked quite colorful and it seemed like they were celebrating something. All the ladies were dressed in some sort of colorful traditional attire with huge flowers on their head. The men were wearing colorful caps. Happy to reach the village and see the people I went and sat next to an elderly man.

He smiled at me. He told me today was Budh Purnima(which falls only on a full moon day), a very sacred day for them and they are celebrating the festival. They were transferring some holy scrolls from the village of Dah to another village Biama. The people of Dah, Hanu, Biama along with two more villages are said to be descendants of Aryans, or maybe those left behind from Alexander’s army or people who migrated from Gilgit of Pakistan long back. Well they certainly don’t look like the rest of Ladakhis. Their features were distinctly Caucasian and they have been preserving their racial purity by marrying strictly within the community. Apparently their language is different too. Well what do I know about their ethnicity and background but they sure are an interesting lot. Someday I should start bothering about people I meet during my travels too.

Two days later I was at Pangong and the night was almost like a full moon night. Except that it was so freaking cold I couldn’t get anywhere near the lake after dark and spent the night warming up in the blankets. Few more days later I came to know that the villagers of Dah don’t wear the traditional headdress and costume everyday. They only do that upon request from the visitors and they visitors apparently have to pay them for doing so.I took a lot of photos too, for free! Well, wasn’t I glad to have taken the chance and going upto Dah the other day? And things happen for a reason, don’t they? For instance, like the trip schedule being goofed up so I land in Dah on that particular day.

Luck surely favors the brave.

13 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

high altitude Lake