The Wandering Soul's Wander Tales..: himalayas

Life lessons on Uttarakhand's Mountain Slopes - A long story short in five acts

It’s a hot summer night in Delhi. Crowds are milling about. You get into your bus towards the mountains, it’s supposed to leave at 10PM. It’s midnight now. The bus finally leaves. It’s 6 AM in the morning and you are exhausted from the heat and the acute mental stress from the preceding days. At 7AM you are supposed to be in Dehradun. You find out you are abandoned in Haridwar.

It’s a hot summer morning at Haridwar. It’s 8AM now and the crowds are milling about. The government run public transportation is a nightmare and utterly inadequate. The bus station is packed, thousands of people are sweating and sighing in the morning heat that would soon aggravate to rival the misery of seventh circle of hell!

You walk around to find cash, ATMs are empty. You try to find a shared taxi. There’s no sight of shared taxis to Uttarkashi or even Dehradun. It’s Yatra season and all are engaged as private hires. You are dizzy from not having dinner the previous night and the heat, the oppressive heat. You buy a red bull and gulp it down. You are already scammed of Rs. 300 by an auto and a rickshaw fellow, but you only feel sorry for the poor old men struggling to make ends meet.

You return to the bus station and sit down carrying over 20kilos on your person, jostling for space. After a decade of pottering around the country, you wonder, is travel in India really worth the colossal incompetence and apathy? But you have an assignment. You need to plod on.

A bus arrives at long last, hordes of people throw themselves at the bus. It's packed in seconds, even before you stand on your feet. Do you really want to fight for it? There is little dignity in scrambling for your space when the government abandons you like this. You let go of the idea to use public transportation, and book a private taxi to Uttarkashi. But before you exit Haridwar, you are now stuck in a two-hour traffic jam. You are the traffic jam, you sigh! It is Yatra season you see. The heat is oppressive even in the mountains. You reach your destination at long last. The village looks like this. Is travel in India still worth all the trouble? You’ll find out soon!

Welcome to Uttarakhand! Let the adventures begin.

7 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

calendar

2018 Desktop Calendar Sale - For the Love of Himalayas

SOLD OUT! Thank you!

2018 Desktop Calendar featuring a collection of 12 images of Himalayas from India and Nepal in Color.

The thing is, I have loved creating these calendars the past few years but it is way too much work and I've been really busy the last few months. So I dropped the idea of a calendar for 2018. But many of you reached out to me over email, in person, on social media asking for 2018 Calendar. I'm truly touched and humbled by the interest. So I decided to put a calendar out, even though we're one month into the new year already, featuring the epic landscapes of Himalayas, in color this time.

Let's get to the details then!

Size: A4 (11" x 8")
Price: Rs. 1050/-
Type: Tabletop/Desktop
Orientation: Landscape
Remember, I'm taking orders only between January 28 - 29 February 1, 2018

Place your order here :

A4 Size (11" × 8") Desktop Calendar

Important things to note:

The sale is active only for the next 96 hours. Place your order immediately if you are interested. Sorry for the short notice but since I put this together on request, I hadn't originally planned for the huge amount of time involved in printing and shipping calendars. I will need a week to get the product out, so if you close the orders by tomorrow night, I will work on it right away.
Please note that the calendars will be shipped on or before February, 10th 2018.
The months would be from February 2018 to February 2019
One or two images may be replaced with other Himalayan options if the current selection doesn't look good on print for any reason. Rest assured, all of them will be from Himalayas and look stunning.
The calendar will feature a minimalistic design like the previous years, indicative design sample here and actual product size here.
In case I do not receive an optimal number of orders to make the effort involved worthwhile, I reserve the right to initiate the refund within 7 days of receiving the order. (Pleeeaase let this not happen, share with friends and family! :))
Pricing includes shipping and currently Shipping only in India.
For International Shipping, I've tried but I haven't been able to find an affordable way to ship internationally, in any case if you're still interested, I can ship using Blue Dart but shipping charges will be extra. The item weight would be less than 500g and you can calculate the estimated cost yourself here - Blue Dart Price Finder

Let's do this then!

P.S - In case short term calendars aren't your thing and you are looking for something permanent, why not buy a fine art print of any one of my photographs? See the collection here.

1 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

2017 Calendar

The Himalayan Collection - 2017 calendar is here!

And it's a wrap! Thanks for the great response, as always. :)

Over the past seven years, I've climbed several mountains and crossed many passes for the smallest glimpse of Himalayan splendour. Once I hiked for a whole week only to get a 10 minute view of Kanchenjunga and more recently travelled and hiked to the farthest corner of Uttarakhand for exactly an hour of clear view. Needless to say, every one of those journeys was priceless and I'd do it in a heartbeat again. ;)

You can now share a small piece of those memories(& wonder) through The Himalayan Collection - 2017 calendars that feature 12 stunning images of Himalayas in B&W! Combining my two loves, Himalayas and haunting landscapes in Black & White, I'm bringing you the 2017 calendar - The Himalayan Collection featuring images which are not quite part of my repertoire but something I've always loved. Landscapes in monochrome brings out the hidden contours of the land that are easily missed in an explosion of colours, so here's my ode to the most magnificent mountain ranges that I've had the pleasure of knowing.

From the jagged pinnacles of Rajrambha in Uttarakhand to the crested peaks of Kanchenjunga all the way in Sikkim, the latest calendar features the many moods of Indian Himalayas that drew me to its chilling heights year after year without fail. If you're a fellow Himalayan obsessor like me, these images will take you back to your favorite mountains. And if you know someone like that, it would be a perfect gift for them.

As always, there are two types calendars you could choose from - 1. A4 size Desktop Calendar & 2. A3 size Wall Hanging Calendar. I've painstakingly designed the templates myself and have gone for a minimalistic approach. You can see the page design and full set of images featuring in the calendar below. The images are being printed on high quality 350 GSM art paper, so the quality will be much better than last years, if you bought one that is. Samples will be available tomorrow.

Important things to note:

Please note that the calendars will be shipped only on December 29th, 2016. So you may get the calendars after a day or two into the new year but not more than that.
I'm ordering 15 additional copies, so you can place your orders till the payment link is active and valid. After I run out of the extra copies, payment link won't work anymore.
Pricing includes shipping and currently Shipping only in India.
For International Shipping, I've tried but I haven't been able to find an affordable way to ship internationally, in any case if you're still interested, I can ship using Blue Dart but shipping charges will be extra. The item weight would be less than 500g and you can calculate the estimated cost yourself here - Blue Dart Price Finder

Place your order here :

A4 Size (11" × 8") Desktop Calendar	Price per piece: Rs. 1100/-
A3 Size (11" × 16") Wall Hanging Calendar	Price per piece: Rs. 1400/-

	Design template ← A3 Size Wall Calendar ↓ A4 Size Desktop Calendar (Click on images to enlarge)

Samples for reference -

Images featured in the Calendar:

P.S - Don't forget to share The Himalayan Collection 2017 Calendar details with those who might be interested! :)

2 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

himalayas

Spiti or Ladakh? How to choose between the two arid jewels of Himalayas

When I first visited Ladakh in 2008, it ended up becoming my most impulsive trip ever! With no prior information, no prior planning, no proper clothing, me and my family took off on a whim from Srinagar ditching Kullu/Manali and had the adventure of our lifetime. Luckily at that point, Ladakh was still wild, pristine and lived up to its reputation as one of the most badass road trips in the world. Flights weren't as common as they are today and getting Leh'd meant not just Pangong or Khardunga La. It was the promise of a rugged journey that was the defining trait of a Ladakh road trip. Leh - Manali Highway and Leh - Srinagar road journeys were as harrowing as legendary. Pangong wasn't a place where 3 Idiots was shot and Khardung La was not a place where boys would get semi naked for a selfie!

Ladakh wasn't a destination then, it was more a feeling of arriving blind into an unknown land crossing unexpected hurdles. In the age of death-by-information-overload and listicles pontificating in painful detail about how you should feel when visiting Ladakh, the charm of the once undisputed king of offbeat journeys is at the end of its tether burdened by its own glorious past.

Dusk at Mudh, Pin Valley National Park, Spiti

Meanwhile, Spiti, that has always played second fiddle to its more famous cousin, is slowly creeping up into the mainstream zeitgeist as an alternative to the now-bucketlisted-and-discarded Ladakh. With a reasonably well-to-do agrarian community, Spiti hasn't yet fully woken up to its so-called "tourism" potential and that has become its biggest hallmark! It's amazing that a small strip of a valley could give such fierce competition to the vastness of Ladakh but that's probably a true testament to the allure of pristine mountain cultures and landscapes.

While both Ladakh and Spiti share a similar culture and landscape, the resemblance is only skin-deep. Beyond the prejudices and preferences of eager travellers, both Spiti and Ladakh have plenty to offer to the discerning and it's hard to pick one over the other. However, based on personal proclivities and travel styles, you could have an easier time of choosing one because unfortunately in real world, we can't have it all. If by any chance you can, go to Spiti and Ladakh both!

If not, this table might help you decide.

P.S - In case you're wondering why you should listen to me, I have been to Ladakh six times and Spiti thrice so far.

Minimum time required to reach (Ex-Delhi)
Tashigong, frontier village in Spiti	Thicksey Monastery in Ladakh
SPITI	LADAKH
2 Days	1hr
Ease of Access
It takes at least 2 days to get in and 2 more to get out. The journeys are long and tiring. You'll have to reach either Manali or Shimla and change another bus/jeep to get to Spiti. From Manali, it takes a day and from Shimla, it takes 2 days by road. Comfort Level: Low	There was once a time where reaching Leh took at least 3 days. Now all it takes is two flights from down south and you're there at the roof of the world in half a day! Also, the roads are much better compared to Spiti. Comfort Level: High
Open Season
Technically open all year round but road blocks are common and travel within the valley is restricted during off season, which is pretty much most of the year except June to October.	Open all year around thanks to flights. Within Ladakh, roads are kept open by the Indian army so you can get around easily all through the year.
Tourist Infrastructure
Minimal There are now guesthouses/homestays in many of the major villages across Spiti but getting around isn't as easy as Ladakh. You'll have to hitchhike or walk if you don't come with your own vehicle. There's only one ATM in the valley and forget Internet while you're here.	Well developed All ranges of hotels/guesthouses available and it's very easy to find a shared ride to many of the famous places of Ladakh. Multi cuisine restaurants, Internet cafes, Bike/Equipment Rentals, Trek Operators etc, you have all of these in Leh.
Altitude and Acclimatization
Most of the villages in Spiti are at a height in between 3800m and 4500m, which makes acclimatization a major concern considering it is not easy to get out of the valley. Kaza is the only place that has a big hospital which proves to be inadequate most of the time since the only cure to AMS is going to lower altitude.	Leh is at 3500m but all other places of interest are between 4000m and 5800m high. Acclimatization wise, Leh is a perfect base to get your body used to the low oxygen before heading into higher grounds. Evacuation out of Leh, in case of a casualty, is super convenient and there are plenty of army camps across the region to help with basic medical aid in worst case scenario.
Major Attractions
In Spiti, the biggest attraction at the moment is the lack of crowd. Here, you can still expect to walk into a village or a food joint/cafe and strike up a conversation with fellow travellers or locals. The villages are much more atmospheric, accessible and picturesque. Highly recommended for solo/independent travellers and those who enjoy sauntering.	The variety of landscape in Ladakh is unparalleled. From shimmering blue lakes to vast plateaus to big mountains, there's plenty to see here. The area is so huge, you can escape the crowds easily whenever you want to. Brok Pa people, Islamic community, Buddhists, Changthang nomads and more. There's a huge variety in the culture as well. I want to add landscapes again because the scenery in Ladakh is so epic, I can't explain in words but perhaps repetition will drive home the point.
Going Offbeat
Kind of difficult to go offbeat in Spiti as there are not many options in the valley to be fair. But it works now because entire Spiti itself is offbeat so far, like how Ladakh was probably 10 years ago. Any exploits to go beyond the usual path would require a lot of planning and support from locals. The valley's only artery, the national highway is limiting when it comes to exploration. However, smaller metal roads to the far flung villages of the valley can provide an exhilarating alternative to those interested in offroading.	Ladakh is so vast, it's a gold mine for offbeat explorers. Beyond the well trodden paths, there's a whole other world waiting to be explored. Since it is also an army bastion, there are little traversed routes that can take you to the most remote corners of the region like Chumur, Demchok, Hanle, Chushul etc. Ladakh is the classic case of the journey being more important that the destination. You might have seen Pangong Tso before but reaching there through Chushul/Tsaga La in Changthang or via Agham/Shyok route from Hunder is the stuff that dreams are made of!
Best suited for
Culture vultures/Independent travellers	Landscape lovers/Road trip aficionados
Lakes
Dhankar Lake and Chandratal, both need hiking. Vehicles can't reach	Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri among many others. Vehicles can reach both. P.S - Spiti's lakes are no match for these two mammoths!
Monasteries
Kye and Dhankar whose location and setting is unmatched! There are plenty of old monasteries in Spiti apart from these two but none as big as those in Ladakh.	There are more monasteries here in Ladakh than you can visit. You'll be spoilt for choice.

Advice for first timers:

Despite reading all the differences and still unsure which one to choose out of the two, here's my advice.
If you're only going to visit Leh, Pangong, Tso Moriri and Khardung La in Ladakh, I'd recommend Spiti as you'll have a much more immersive experience there when compared to the now done-to-death Ladakh trip. In case you'll be going beyond these well known places, I'd recommend Ladakh all the way!

Kiagar Tso, Ladakh

Does this help you decide between Spiti and Ladakh?

Let me know in the comments if you need me to add something else!

34 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure

Parang La: Trekking from Spiti to Ladakh Along the Ancient Nomadic Trade Route

Despite nearly losing one hiking boot to its flow just minutes before, crossing the thigh-high fast currents of the Pare Chu River at Norbu Sumdo felt strangely exciting. After all, there's only so much walking on river bed that one can take. Walking through dry valleys for days after crossing the high pass, even something as dangerous as a fast flowing river seemed like a welcome obstacle. Parang La is a strange trek, long and monotonous often times but it redeems itself with consistent days at high altitudes of above 4000m and mind-blowing views of Tso Moriri towards the end.

The incredibly blue waters of Tso Moriri, one of the highest lakes of Ladakh.

Ancient trek routes connecting remote lands always held a great fascination for me. Ever since I heard of one such historic route that connected Spiti to Ladakh across Parang La, I’ve wanted to get on that trail. The nomadic people of Changthang used this route in the earlier days extensively to attend the La Darcha trade fair in Spiti where the Changspa nomads came mainly to barter wool and barley in exchange for salt. Even today, many locals use this foot trail as the fastest and cheapest way to get across between Spiti and Ladakh. I was more than excited to be experiencing a slice of the local way of life in the mountains. Just like the Chadar becomes the highway for the people of Zanskar to reach Leh during winters, this route connects the people of Spiti and Ladakh during summers.

Fading Milkyway against a beguiling moon rise on the shore of the farthest end of Tso Moriri

My fellow hikers climbing up the gorge on the way to Dumla

Arriving at Kibber(4200m) with two other hikers, our guide and his support team of five, I stood in front of the ominous notice board warning hikers that the trek can get very dangerous after September 15th. Unprepared as I was and breathless already after barely a minute’s walk on flat ground (that’s high altitude and low oxygen at work!), I nervously made calculations in my mind if we’d be crossing on time. Thankfully, we were almost 3 weeks early before the open season ended.

Camping in secluded locations on moonlit nights is nothing short of magical!

Settling into my sweet little yellow Black Diamond tent at a clearing called Dumla, a small village beyond Kibber and our first campsite, I was immensely thankful for two things. One - that there were no other hikers around, as is the case with most of the popular treks in Himalayas these days. And two - that it was waxing moon period, meaning bright moonlit nights were going to keep me company as we camped in secluded locations over the next 10 days. Considering I am not fond of absolute darkness and that I will be bunked alone in the tent, I was more than happy with the big bright silver moon that lit up the skies every night. Except for the slight scare from the braying donkeys and barking shepherd dogs at night, I’m pretty pleased with this new development of camping alone in a tent. (Of course my group was camped next to me, but still!)

Over the next two days, we walked along gradual trails where we came across several fossils belonging to the Tethys Sea and enjoyed clear views of stunning Mt.Kanamo towering above the landscape. When the time came to cross the 5500m high pass, we got down to a deep gorge and climbed along a punishing moraine to reach the basecamp where furious winds ripped apart our tents for an hour before subsiding. Crossing the pass turned out to be a decent affair, the insane cold before sunrise and the oxygen deprived high-altitude being the only deterrents but nothing too unmanageable for an experienced hiker.

One of our guides, Prashant, sliding on the snow-filled slopes seen after crossing Parang La

The descent towards the other side, however, brought a large swathe of snowfield and plenty of glacial streams. Hiking on top of brittle ice formations over water channels crisscrossing beneath our feet turned out to be quite tiring and often times harrowing but the lure of a distant campsite along the riverbed kept us moving. What we didn’t realize was that much like a mirage in the desert, our campsite would never arrive despite seeming like it’s just around the corner. Looking for greenery so the donkeys could graze, we couldn’t stop just anywhere by the river. We walked and walked on the dry riverbed until we found a small patch of green almost after 9 hours since we started hiking that day. Tired, we collapsed into our tents thinking the worst was behind us. Normally, the toughest days on any trek are the summit or pass-crossing days but not on this one. We would be tested mentally over the next 7 days but for now, we reveled in the glory of safely crossing the 18300ft high Parang La pass, a mighty wall between the two legendary regions.

Nomadic Changspa returning to their lands after successfully finishing a trek to Spiti

The Pare Chu River and the vast riverbed that we walked along for what seemed like ages!

Over the next few days, we walked endlessly along the riverside in the valley between the mountains. The days were monotonous and mentally taxing for there was little change in scenery apart from more brown mountains and pebble-filled riverbed. The only thing that we were looking forward to, was reaching the shores of beautiful Tso Moriri, one of the world’s highest lakes at an altitude of almost 15000ft! When we reached the shore, I couldn’t resist the temptation to camp an extra day by its verdant shores observing the wildlife and soaking in the greenery around.

Kiangs seen at Kiangdom!

The best part of this trek was definitely hiking in the incredibly scenic Changthang region of Ladakh, one of the very few regions in Ladakh with greenery and abundant wildlife. The Bar Headed Geese that fly higher than Mount Everest roosted right next to our campsite and Kiangs, the endemic Tibetan Wild Asses of high Himalayas, strayed close examining the outsiders in their territory. I also enjoyed stalking the curious and very cute Marmots, which are not used to human presence at all in this region. I woke up to gorgeous sunrise views at farthest end of Tso Moriri and warmed myself around a bonfire at moonrise watching the many glacial streams light up even as the milkyway showed bright in the night sky.

On the last day I hiked almost 20kms along the shores of Tso Moriri to reach the village of Korzok on the other end. With this, I had explored the entire length of the two most gorgeous lakes of Ladakh; I had driven 40kms all across the length of Pangong Tso in India and walked across the length of Tso Moriri from one end to the other!

A view worth waking up to, camping on the shores of Tso Moriri

Now having walked, flown and driven to Ladakh on different trips, the only other means of transportation left to reach the roof of the world was cycling. Perhaps, it will be the next adventure that’ll see me arrive in Ladakh for the 7th time! But for that time, I was more than happy to treat my eyes to some greenery after almost 2 weeks of barren landscapes of Spiti and Ladakh. Between the lush greens, however, flashes of those empty landscapes shining bright on moonlit nights will surface every so often and I’ll go running back to the very same strange place that feels like home!

***

Complete trek itinerary and more details here

Trek Operator:

I was invited to join this trek with Great Indian Outdoors (GIO) which happens to be one of the very few companies offering this trek in India at a reasonable price. The equipment provided was excellent and I would even say this was a luxurious trek in terms of facilities and comforts provided when compared to many other treks I have been on in the past.

Two reasons I can highly recommend GIO for your next Himalayan adventure are one - they strongly believe in small group adventures (which means no 30 member teams!) and two - they have plenty of fixed departures which solo hikers and small groups can join to avoid sky high costs.

P.S - There’s a contest coming up next week where two Himalayan treks with GIO will be up for grabs! Watch this space. :)

In the Foothills of Himalayas, Let Kosi Valley Charm You

Mt Trishul as seen from Kumaon Himalayas

A Gorgeous sunset over the Mountains

Through the glass windows, I was looking at the night lift its cloak of darkness as a blue dawn fought its way through. The sun crept up the mountains that surrounded me as the first rays slowly flooded the room, the chirping of birds grew louder and I could hear the faint gurgle of the river below. I was still in bed as the orange light blinded me; I adjusted my position to keep the rays away from my face. While I have always loved the idea of waking up to first light gently falling on my face, it is not something that I got to experience a lot. But here at Kosi Valley Retreat, I went to bed every night anticipating waking up to bright sunshine.

I’m not a morning person on most days, but whenever I’m in the hills, I become one. It is impossible not to, when your cue to wake up is not the mechanized sound of an alarm ringing but the delightful cacophony of numerous birds singing. Plus, it helps to be well rested, in the lap of nature where your internal body clock resets itself (BBC: Can a week under canvas reset our body clocks?). Here in this valley, outdoor enthusiasts who prefer a nature fix along with creature comforts can have it all.

View from the bed, minutes before sunshine comes flooding the room

My days largely comprised of hanging out with wild nature; Pine trees, Kosi River, Himalayas and its foothills, star-studded night skies, Red-Billed Blue Magpies, verdant green terraced fields and such were my constant companions. I spent a week here without encountering another tourist, which seemed to be a rather rare blessing these days.

On clear nights, sitting around a warm bonfire and listening to the screeching of thousand insects, I looked up into the heavens tracing the paths of numerous shooting stars. However, lazy mornings were spent in the balcony with a warm cup of tea in hand, watching the daring pigeons and hill mynas flutter close to the roof while the little birdies flew in frenzy in the farther trees. Afternoons and evenings were spent hiking in the pristine forest that surrounded the property and cycling in the pretty countryside of Someshwar Valley. But on some days when the serenity of the nature called to do “nothing”, I lazed under a pine tree watching the sunshine escape through its sparse canopy. In the age of sightseeing, it seems we forgot how lovely it is to sit under a tree.

But that doesn’t mean I spent my week in Kosi Valley largely doing nothing. My plan was to actually do nothing, and in fact the place is perfect to just laze around with a book or saunter aimlessly given the serene surroundings of hills, streams and forests. But both Kosi Valley and the team really caught me off-guard there, I had quite an active stay with long hikes and cycle rides on few days. However, the thing that I enjoyed most during my stay was the complete lack of a planned itinerary and how the valley let me in on its secrets, slowly, at its own pace, one day at a time.

Every morning, Shivraj(the manager) and I used to discuss what to do and made plans on the fly depending on my mood. Surprisingly, I found something to do every single day. One day, we made a date with the snowcapped peaks of the Kumaon Range. The next, we cruised along the gently winding roads on Mountain Bikes. On another, we just went hiking in the rain. There was no sightseeing, there was just experiencing the beauty of the valley, often ignored and overshadowed by the mountains that rise up from their sides. Fortunately, Kosi Valley Retreat offers you a rare chance to experience serenity in a valley that is off the beaten track.

***

My time in Kosi Valley, In Pictures (13!) - A Slice of Heaven in Untrodden Corners of Almora

***

Make it Happen

Accommodation:

I stayed in the room on top left, comes highly recommended.

Kosi Valley Retreat is a stone bungalow set right by the Kosi River side in a valley between Almora and Kausani, offering 4 rooms on the top floor, with a dedicated balcony for each room which allows you a close look at the very active birdlife in the surrounding pine forest. The building constructed with stone and pebbles in typical mountain style is atmospheric, and the large glass windows and doors are a delightful touch because you can see the mountains and forest right from your bed.

If you’re into outdoor adventures, talk to the team beforehand and ask for a detailed list of things to do around before zeroing in on the number of days you will stay here. There are enough activities to keep you occupied for an entire week and more, so plan your days well in advance so you are not disappointed that you have to leave out certain treks or cycle rides due to lack of time.

A small team of friendly staff from nearby villages manages the retreat and they take care of you quite well. And, like me, if you hate the oily atrocity that is thrust upon us in the name of Indian food in most touristy places, you will love the simple and delicious Kumaoni food served here. The produce used for cooking is mostly organic, coming from the kitchen garden within the premises.

Getting there:

Kosi Valley Retreat is situated in a village called Simkholi, 30kms from Almora and 18kms from Kausani in the splendid Almora district of Uttarakhand, far away from the crowd and close to nature.

Kathgodam is the nearest railway station and Haldwani is the closest bus stop. You can get shared or full taxis to take you to Almora from Kathgodam, it takes about 4-5 hours to reach.

Note: My stay and activities at Kosi Valley were sponsored by Kosi Valley Retreat.

4 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

GoechaLa Trek

Goecha La Trek: Surreal Beauty of Sikkim, In Pictures

Goecha La is a high altitude trek in West Sikkim famous for grand views of Mt Kanchenjunga. Over a week, we climbed to 5000m and were suitably rewarded with surreal views. Here's a quick story of what happened and what we saw, in pictures!

Note : The beautiful zoomed in pictures of the mountains was possible only because of the super steady Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens I rented from Tapprs - A Bangalore Based Photography Gear Rental Company. It was really really hard to stay still in that cold! :)

I'm not going to make you wait to show you what the trek was all about! Here's a grand view of the 8586m high mammoth of a mountain, the mighty Kanchenjunga, third highest mountain in the whole world. We trudged up to a height of 5000m, walked for a whole week, in the night, in the morning, in the evening for this. For this view, we hiked from 1AM till 3PM the next day, worth it? Totally!

Sikkim is famous for two things, unobstructed view of Mt. Kanchenjunga and the stunning rhododendron bloom that paints the landscape in all shades in April/May. We didn't miss the glory, we saw flowers of all colors - pink, yellow, red, white! This was on the second day of the trek, we gained a height of whopping 5000ft in a single day. It was crazy as hell.

The treks starts from Yuksom in West Sikkim. The first day we entered Kanchenjunga National Park and walked through dense forests with nasty little flying insects and abundant yaks for company. We started from Yuksom and camped at Bakhim(9000ft) for the night.

The next day was a long day. We started from Bakhim towards Dzongri at 14000ft high. The climb was long and endless but this view at the Devrali Top made up for it. For the first time, we saw the clouds clear up to show the mountains hiding behind them. It was a glorious day, two things Sikkim's known for were right in front of us - the mountains and the flowers.

The third morning, we woke up at the ungodly hour of 3AM and climbed to up to a sunrise point, Dzongri Top at 15000ft. Because sunrise happens here at 4.30AM. It was so damn cold that it was impossible to stand still, we had to keep moving to generate body warmth. Taking pictures was next to impossible for me as I tend to get very cold very easily. But having a good lens helped! Early morning glory shining on the mountain tops. This looks like Mt. Kabru but need confirmation.

Same morning, same place, another view. Turning back from Dzongri Top I saw clouds fill up the valleys, ready to leave.

On the fourth day, we marched towards Lamuney, the camp before Goecha La. The terrain was flat, felt like high altitude with little vegetation and stark landscapes. We walked on the pleasant terrain for a while before the altitude dropped like crazy. We went down to Kokhchurung all the way down to the river and walked up again to our campsite. From 14500ft we lost the altitude just like that.

So it turned out the campsite at Lamuney was full, so we stopped at Thansing. But the catch was on the summit day, we'll have to cover that extra distance and climb to the pass and walk back extra to reach back to Thansing. So we did, woke up at 1AM and climbed and climbed and climbed and climbed. It was a long climb to 5000m/16000ft and back! But we did it, for the sake of mountains. Seen here is Mt. Pandim glowing in the moonlight.

We reached Goecha La View Point 1 by sunrise time, it was a very difficult climb for me considering I hadn't exercised at all in 2 years but I made it. Barely so, but I reached. We got a small glimpse of might Kanchenjunga, the same picture you saw at the beginning of the post. But then we proceeded towards Goecha La View Point ahead for a close up view of Kanchenjunga. That was the longest hike ever, at least if felt like that. We crossed a desert, a barren rocky field and a huge mountain slope covered in scree. Only I know how I crawled through the landscape, and thanks to few other friends who were equally tired but wanted to reach the viewpoint2, I managed to reach the second viewpoint. But what a disappointment because Kanchenjunga was right in front of us, completely shrouded in clouds! No view, zilch! But the silver lining was this gorgeous glacial lake, Goecha Lake.

This is the view of Kanchenjunga from Dzongri Top, since we didn't see anything from Goecha La View point 2, I'm showing you this. :) My friends went ahead on another hour long hike to the original Goecha La while me and a friend embarked on the impossibly long hike back to campsite.

The hike back to the campsite, Thansing was so long it felt like an eternity. We we were so spent with the climb up that walking back felt impossible. We slept on the desert, stopped by the moraines, sat by the lake side and yet the campsite was nowhere near. We walked all afternoon and finally reached 14 hours after we started.

The sparkling blue Samiti Lake just below Goecha La Viewpoint 1. The sun sparkled for few minutes to reveal its colors. It was cloudy for most of the trek, I didn't see blue skies, gorgeous sunsets or glorious mornings. It was cold and cloudy all the time but at least we got view of Kanchenjunga when it mattered!

The surreal landscape of high altitudes in Sikkim. The land was barren but stubborn vegetation dotted the landscape. A clear water stream ran through the valley and somewhere between this is Lamuney campsite. We walked past it to the next campsite.

On the fifth day, we were back to greenery. We walked along the river for a long time before entering dense forest where no yak has littered the path. It was extremely long again, but beautiful nonetheless. Our guide, Basant enjoying the view or rather waiting for the laggard, me! ;)

Yaks are used as the pack animals in Sikkim. And the thing with yaks is they carry little, are quite stubborn and they shit a lot! So you can imagine the trail with the rains, slush and abundant yak shit. The trail was the dirtiest I've ever walked upon and I wondered at my own decision of hiking with yaks. Sometime in future I'd like to do away with pack animals and hike alpine style. But for now, I had to live with the guilt. This trail from Kokhchurung to Dzongri however was only for hikers, yaks go through another route. This day was again very long but also extremely beautiful. We climbed through narrow trails amidst dense misty forest and full of rhododendron bloom. The next day, another long walk later we were back in Yuksom.

Goecha La is a trek unlike any other I have been on so far. It is undoubtedly the most beautiful in terms of views but the route is a little bit tricky. You climb almost every day, even when you are returning back. But there are trekkers huts everywhere making the trek a little bit comfortable. The views were worth the effort however, Sikkim is very very beautiful. I was convinced of this again.

So what do you think of Sikkim?

Also Read:
Monsoons of Sikkim - Photos of Nature Extraordinaire
Goecha La Trek, Sikkim - Instagrammed!

34 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure

Goecha La Trek, Sikkim - Instagrammed!

Sikkim is one of the most beautiful states of India. I had fallen in love with its wild mountains the first time I visited (Monsoons of Sikkim) and harboured the dream to return ever since. Two weeks ago, I went back to trek in the West this time. We trekked along the trail to Goecha La, a high altitude pass at 4940m with amazingly clear views of the 3rd highest mountain in the whole world, Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586m). Not surprisingly, I fell in love with this tiny state all over again.

Do you see the colorful tents? That's the campsite we had to skip due to overcrowding! We started from the previous campsite covering more than 30 kms including gruelling climbs of Day 5, in the name of adventure!

But before I begin with the thousands of pictures hiding in the memory card sitting inside the DSLR, here's a quick glimpse of the trek through my phone.

And while you are it, do follow me on instagram :) - http://instagram.com/neelimav

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Little girl running across the bridge on the way to Yuksom. We crossed many such bridges on River Teesta and other rivers all along the trek and the journey.

Beautiful rhododendron flowers along the misty jungle trail, it was magical to say the least!

The 2011 Sikkim Earthquake caused this damage to the trekkers hut in Bakhim. We spent the night in this almost broken rest house, it was surprisingly comfortable.

It was a cloudy day all along and the views were obscured all through the killer climb from Bakhim to Dzongri. But the view opened up at Devrali top and we got to see Mt. Pandim and the rest of the mountains up close.

Mt Kanchendzonga(8,586m) and the rest of the gang, as seen from the very cold Dzongri Top on Day 3. We started the climb at 3AM in the morning to get here by sunrise. Worth it!

On the rest day at Dzongri, I went up a hill top and watched the crazy clouds rising from the valley incessantly, all day long!

Finally, high altitude scenery on Day 4! Today we hiked from Dzongri to Thansing, another long walk descending all the way down to tree line from high altitude.

Pretty wildflowers as we descended down to the treeline on Day 4, at Kokchurung campsite.

An obscured view from viewpoint 1 on our way back, tired beyond belief. Started the climb at midnight. Day 5. On a clear day you can see the entire Kanchenjunga mountain range from here. We got clear views at sunrise.

My fellow trek mate walking towards the blue Samiti Lake nestled in the mountains on Day 5.

More the sun shines, the bluer it looks, Samiti Lake.

The many colors of Sikkim Highlands. Dead tired and walking like a zombie by this time. Day 5, the longest!

Camping at 15000ft with Mt Pandim looming large. A rare sunny day in #Sikkim.

Yet another long walk through misty forests along a narrow trail on Day 6! The trek's ending but the climb's not.

So how did you enjoy this quick virtual tour of the trek? DSLR pictures and clear views of Mt. Kanchendzonga coming soon. Meanwhile, tell me where have you trekked/planning to trek this year? :)

A group of us organized this trek ourselves as part of the voluntary adventure group called Bangalore ASCENDers.

25 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure

When I went walking on a Frozen River {Chadar Trek} - A Photo Story

Zanskar river, in Ladakh, is a river so furious that there is no stillness in its wake. The currents and rapids are so forceful, they carved out a deep gorge through the indomitable mountains. Even the mighty Himalayas had to give in to this force creating gorgeous yet inaccessible canyons. The roar of the river reverberates in the valleys and even in the vast open spaces. However, come winter, a strange silence falls upon this place. There are few birds and fewer trees, there is no noise except for the occasional swooshing of wind passing by your ears.

The river freezes.

Chadar - The Frozen Zanskar River

But it is this very same stillness that mends a connection once a year, every year. The frozen river becomes the only road that connects the remote mountain villages of Zanskar to the rest of the world during the harsh winter months. There are no roads to many of these villages. During summers, they stay disconnected and cocooned in their own world. For centuries, walking on the frozen river to get out was the preferred route. The only other suicidal alternative was to climb over several high altitude passes over several days. From month long expeditions to week long hikes, the Chadar as it is known, has been shrinking and the road is nearing completion. In the next few years, there might not be a frozen river in Zanskar. But for now, the ice forms and we walk on it in minus temperatures. (Wondering how to prepare to walk on a frozen river in subzero temperatures? - Read this)

Here's my story and of the river's, as we trudged in subzero temperatures over the ever-changing Chadar for 11 days.

The confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers, the one on the left is Indus. Till a decade from now, Chadar used to form till here. Expeditions to Zanskar valley were at least a 30 day affair, a far cry from today's one week short walks. The road you see to the left didn't exist. Today, even the Chadar doesn't fully form.

Clear nights are a good sign. It means the Chadar won't possibly break and will remain intact. The starry skies look splendid but it is hard to admire the celestial opulence when every inch of your body is struggling to stay warm in the minus temperatures. We don't hang around outside much unless there's a fire going on. There are limited dried up juniper trees next to the river side, they provide the much needed warmth.

This is the Chadar, meaning blanket in Hindi - A blanket of ice. Beneath these volatile sheets, flow waters that run deep. The ice forms during the winters, in January/February to be precise. This is what we walked upon for over a week. The ice is ever-changing, it breaks, moves, flips, forms and breaks again. There's never the same sight to be seen again. In a day, the Chadar can change completely.

The Chadar breaks often, in such cases we try to cross over the banks as seen here. If not, we wade through the bone-chilling waters to get to solid frozen section of the river. Luckily we had very few ankle deep water crossings. Rest of the time clambering up the rocky and rickety slopes got us through.

It is bad news when it snows. It might seem counterintuitive but it gets warm when it snows. This warmth causes the Chadar to melt, break and water to flow over the Chadar. However, the snow makes the walking very easy. The normally glossy sheets of ice, when covered in snow provide much needed friction. This arrests the otherwise inevitable multiple slips and falls.

This takes some getting used to, walking on thin ice ledges with deep waters running right next to you. One can never tell when it'll break. I saw a Thai hiker fall knee deep through the ice sheet on a ledge like this right in front of me. My heart skipped a beat. So must have his. He got up and started walking and so did I. Well, what can I say? It's all part of the Chadar experience.

The famous frozen waterfall of Nerak and the old bridge used during the summers in the distance. It was snowing relentlessly that day and we walked with the powdery snow hitting our faces ever so gently. The skies were gray and the mountain tops were covered in a white mist. It was strange mix of raw nature and gentle beauty. Things could've gone wrong, bad weather in the mountains is no joke. But as long as they don't, it is only beautiful, extremely.

From Nerak, we took an extended deviation to the remote village of Lingshed. We left the river and followed the trail of a small stream flowing through narrow gorges. The gorges were as narrow as just under a meter wide at places. After the monotonous walk on the river, this route brought as an exciting change in scenery. I was initially much disinterested but as spectacular views opened up, I quite enjoyed the walk. We climbed over huge rocks, narrow ledges alongside deep slopes and it was all covered in white except for the blue sky above. But in the end, all I remember is the cold and the white snow.

Lingshed village is one of the many remote yet beautiful villages hidden in the valleys of Himalayas. With a handful of houses and a monastery, Lingshed is remoteness personified. Surrounded by snow covered mountains on all sides, living in a place like this, even for a day, puts things into perspective. It takes 2 days for them to reach out to civilization, by walking over the frozen river. Otherwise, during summers they trek over high passes.

On the third day when it was snowing incessantly, we thought it'd be a good idea to climb up to Nerak village on a steep snow-ridden trail late evening. It wasn't a good idea, it was a bad idea but the effort was worth it. The pretty village was completely snow ridden, the evening was very cold and we were shivering. But a helpful villager offered us shelter and warmth. On our way back, we slid, got stuck on steep slopes, had our hearts in our mouths several times but made it back in one piece. Some adventures are to be had.

My gumboots and one of the many forms of Chadar, the frozen bubbles are seen through the glossy ice here. It feels wonderfully weird to walk on ice where we can see beneath our feet, the stones, the bubbles and the cracks. There's never a dull moment on the Chadar, despite the monotonicity of the idea of walking on a river for weeks. The Chadar keeps you on your feet and leaves you only with a lifetime of memories. One of the most interesting treks I have ever come across, I'm glad to have experienced this truly unique adventure.

So how did you enjoy this virtual adventure through of the frozen territories of Ladakh? Tell me in the comments. :)

45 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

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When I went walking on a Frozen River {Chadar Trek} - A Photo Story

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And it's a wrap! Thanks for the great response, as always. :)

Place your order here :

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P.S - Don't forget to share The Himalayan Collection 2017 Calendar details with those who might be interested! :)

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Does this help you decide between Spiti and Ladakh?

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