It’s a hot summer night in Delhi. Crowds are milling about. You get into your bus towards the mountains, it’s supposed to leave at 10PM. It’s midnight now. The bus finally leaves. It’s 6 AM in the morning and you are exhausted from the heat and the acute mental stress from the preceding days. At 7AM you are supposed to be in Dehradun. You find out you are abandoned in Haridwar.

It’s a hot summer morning at Haridwar. It’s 8AM now and the crowds are milling about. The government run public transportation is a nightmare and utterly inadequate. The bus station is packed, thousands of people are sweating and sighing in the morning heat that would soon aggravate to rival the misery of seventh circle of hell!

You walk around to find cash, ATMs are empty. You try to find a shared taxi. There’s no sight of shared taxis to Uttarkashi or even Dehradun. It’s Yatra season and all are engaged as private hires. You are dizzy from not having dinner the previous night and the heat, the oppressive heat. You buy a red bull and gulp it down. You are already scammed of Rs. 300 by an auto and a rickshaw fellow, but you only feel sorry for the poor old men struggling to make ends meet.

You return to the bus station and sit down carrying over 20kilos on your person, jostling for space. After a decade of pottering around the country, you wonder, is travel in India really worth the colossal incompetence and apathy? But you have an assignment. You need to plod on.

A bus arrives at long last, hordes of people throw themselves at the bus. It's packed in seconds, even before you stand on your feet. Do you really want to fight for it? There is little dignity in scrambling for your space when the government abandons you like this. You let go of the idea to use public transportation, and book a private taxi to Uttarkashi. But before you exit Haridwar, you are now stuck in a two-hour traffic jam. You are the traffic jam, you sigh! It is Yatra season you see. The heat is oppressive even in the mountains. You reach your destination at long last. The village looks like this. Is travel in India still worth all the trouble? You’ll find out soon!

Welcome to Uttarakhand! Let the adventures begin.

A Gorgeous sunset over the Mountains

Through the glass windows, I was looking at the night lift its cloak of darkness as a blue dawn fought its way through. The sun crept up the mountains that surrounded me as the first rays slowly flooded the room, the chirping of birds grew louder and I could hear the faint gurgle of the river below. I was still in bed as the orange light blinded me; I adjusted my position to keep the rays away from my face. While I have always loved the idea of waking up to first light gently falling on my face, it is not something that I got to experience a lot. But here at Kosi Valley Retreat, I went to bed every night anticipating waking up to bright sunshine.

I’m not a morning person on most days, but whenever I’m in the hills, I become one. It is impossible not to, when your cue to wake up is not the mechanized sound of an alarm ringing but the delightful cacophony of numerous birds singing. Plus, it helps to be well rested, in the lap of nature where your internal body clock resets itself (BBC: Can a week under canvas reset our body clocks?). Here in this valley, outdoor enthusiasts who prefer a nature fix along with creature comforts can have it all.

View from the bed, minutes before sunshine comes flooding the room

My days largely comprised of hanging out with wild nature; Pine trees, Kosi River, Himalayas and its foothills, star-studded night skies, Red-Billed Blue Magpies, verdant green terraced fields and such were my constant companions. I spent a week here without encountering another tourist, which seemed to be a rather rare blessing these days.

On clear nights, sitting around a warm bonfire and listening to the screeching of thousand insects, I looked up into the heavens tracing the paths of numerous shooting stars. However, lazy mornings were spent in the balcony with a warm cup of tea in hand, watching the daring pigeons and hill mynas flutter close to the roof while the little birdies flew in frenzy in the farther trees. Afternoons and evenings were spent hiking in the pristine forest that surrounded the property and cycling in the pretty countryside of Someshwar Valley. But on some days when the serenity of the nature called to do “nothing”, I lazed under a pine tree watching the sunshine escape through its sparse canopy. In the age of sightseeing, it seems we forgot how lovely it is to sit under a tree.

But that doesn’t mean I spent my week in Kosi Valley largely doing nothing. My plan was to actually do nothing, and in fact the place is perfect to just laze around with a book or saunter aimlessly given the serene surroundings of hills, streams and forests. But both Kosi Valley and the team really caught me off-guard there, I had quite an active stay with long hikes and cycle rides on few days. However, the thing that I enjoyed most during my stay was the complete lack of a planned itinerary and how the valley let me in on its secrets, slowly, at its own pace, one day at a time.

Every morning, Shivraj(the manager) and I used to discuss what to do and made plans on the fly depending on my mood. Surprisingly, I found something to do every single day. One day, we made a date with the snowcapped peaks of the Kumaon Range. The next, we cruised along the gently winding roads on Mountain Bikes. On another, we just went hiking in the rain. There was no sightseeing, there was just experiencing the beauty of the valley, often ignored and overshadowed by the mountains that rise up from their sides. Fortunately, Kosi Valley Retreat offers you a rare chance to experience serenity in a valley that is off the beaten track.


My time in Kosi Valley, In Pictures (13!) - A Slice of Heaven in Untrodden Corners of Almora

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I stayed in the room on top left, comes highly recommended.

Kosi Valley Retreat is a stone bungalow set right by the Kosi River side in a valley between Almora and Kausani, offering 4 rooms on the top floor, with a dedicated balcony for each room which allows you a close look at the very active birdlife in the surrounding pine forest. The building constructed with stone and pebbles in typical mountain style is atmospheric, and the large glass windows and doors are a delightful touch because you can see the mountains and forest right from your bed.

If you’re into outdoor adventures, talk to the team beforehand and ask for a detailed list of things to do around before zeroing in on the number of days you will stay here. There are enough activities to keep you occupied for an entire week and more, so plan your days well in advance so you are not disappointed that you have to leave out certain treks or cycle rides due to lack of time. 

A small team of friendly staff from nearby villages manages the retreat and they take care of you quite well. And, like me, if you hate the oily atrocity that is thrust upon us in the name of Indian food in most touristy places, you will love the simple and delicious Kumaoni food served here. The produce used for cooking is mostly organic, coming from the kitchen garden within the premises. 

Kosi Valley Retreat is situated in a village called Simkholi, 30kms from Almora and 18kms from Kausani in the splendid Almora district of Uttarakhand, far away from the crowd and close to nature.

Kathgodam is the nearest railway station and Haldwani is the closest bus stop. You can get shared or full taxis to take you to Almora from Kathgodam, it takes about 4-5 hours to reach.

Note: My stay and activities at Kosi Valley were sponsored by Kosi Valley Retreat.

Roopkund also christened as The Skeleton Lake situated at an altitude of 5000 meters (approx) in the lap of the Gharwal Himalayas is a heady combination of myths, mystery and magnificence. It falls under the realms of Nanda Devi National Park in the Uttarakhand State of Northern India.

Let’s talk about mystery – of Skeletons and Magical Mushrooms!

In 1942 a park ranger stumbled upon hundreds of skeletons in the Lake. Since then many theories have been put forward. Folks from National Geographic have also conducted a research and produced a Documentary titled – Riddles of the Dead – The Skeleton Lake. I haven’t seen it yet and if you find it, do let me know! It is believed that at least 300 to 600 people were dead around this lake sometime during the 9th century. And how did the group meet their end - A sudden hailstorm. Hails as big as a cricket ball is what some say and some say maybe the size of a TT ball. Either way, it is almost certain they did not die of an epidemic or an avalanche but because of a hailstorm. This theory goes consistent with the cracks found on the victims head. Himalayas being as cold as they were, the skeletons and few decomposing bodies were well preserved and every year when the lake thawed for a few months, the bones were seen everywhere around. But over the years, the bones have disappeared as souvenirs leaving behind a legacy soon-to-be.

Having said that, what else in mysterious about this lake one might ask. Well it is still unsure where the group was headed. There was no trade route or a pilgrimage in that direction and it has been found there were two groups of people – possible visitors and porters. But it still undetermined till date who these people were and what they were doing on that route.

Talking about the “Medicinal Mushrooms” or the “Keeda Jadi” in local language is not so much a mystery but it is sure one very interesting treasure hunt. Every spring, thousands of families flock the high altitudes of Himalayas of above 3500 meters where this caterpillar fungus is found. This magical mutant is believed to have incredible medicinal properties – as an energy booster and aphrodisiac. Needless to say it is valued highly which is why people rush braving the inclement conditions and altitudes. Keeda Jadi literally translates to insect plant. Half caterpillar, half fungus, the fungal spores eat away the insides of the larvae of ghost moth and mummifies the victim and then grows from the body of the insect. Read more about this medicinal mushroom at Wikipedia!

There you go! That was your dose of mystery and if that doesn’t help you make up your mind to go for Roopkund it’ story time! The folklore of the mountains and the lake makes for an interesting trip to the days of yore..really old days of Gods and Goddesses!

Let’s talk about Myths – Of Parvati, Shiva and the king who died!

⁂  Legend has it that the four Vedas were written in the meadows of Bedni Bugyal.

⁂  Maa Durga is said to have killed Demon Mahishasura near Bedni Kund in her Kali Avatar.

⁂  Further ahead is “Ghoda Lautani” which translates to “Horses returned”. The British had to return back from this point on the ridge due to lack of fodder for the horses and hence the name. True to its folklore, further from this point, the landscape turns rocky with little pastures.

⁂  And then comes “Pathar Nauchuni” which translates to “Dancing Stones”. Legend has it that the king who was taking the annual pilgrimage to please Goddess Nanda Devi had forgotten paying proper prayers mesmerized by the royal dancers. Goddess Nanda was infuriated but the King asked for forgiveness and in order to avoid further distractions, the dancers were cursed to transform into stones. There are a couple of big stones to be seen which can be connected to the folklore.

⁂  A steep climb from Pathar Nachuni to Kalu Vinayak Pass would lead us to another place with an interesting folklore. This is where Lord Vinayak was standing guard while Parvati was taking bath in Roopkund Lake. It is from here that one can see the Roopkund crater for the first time.

⁂  Further down the pass, we reach Bhaguabhasa which translates to “Abode of the Tiger”. This was where Goddess Parvati left the tiger and went ahead to take her bath in Roopkund.

⁂  And now finally we’ve reached Roopkund. While Goddess Parvati and Lord Shiva were on their way to Kailas (or maybe Trishul), Goddess Parvati was feeling very dirty after killing the demons and wanted to clean up. Lord Shiva created the Lake with his Trishul and Parvati dipped herself in the blue waters and she could see her clear and beautiful reflection in the waters which was why the lake was named Roopkund.
⁂ Every 12 years, the Nanda Raj Jat Yatra takes place and the locals of Kumaon and Gharwal believe that a  mysterious four horned ram will come which is supposed by to be very auspicious. Thousands of piligrims head  for Hem Kund Lake to pay homage to Goddess Nanda Devi. This lake  is further ahead from Roopkund and the locals undertake the journey barefoot braving the inhospitable conditions over 22 days. Read more here.

⁂  And last but not the least, the skeletons are believed to be of Tibetan traders or Japanese soldiers who lost their way or Tuglak’s army according to various folklore. There’s also the story that goes like King Jasdal of Kanauj was on his way with his wife undertaking a pilgrimage called, “Nanda Jat” to propitiate Goddess Nanda Devi . The Queen delivered a child on the way. This made the Goddess Nanda Devi angry by spoiling Her Holy Land. A snow storm was sent down by the Goddess killing hundreds on the trail of pilgrimage.


There’s your dose of myths and folklore for each day of the trek. And if you still need something more to make up your mind here’s some magnificence.

Let’s talk about Magnificence - of Rainbows, Mountain Peaks and Top 11 things to do on Roopkund Trek.

✈  Watch out for the stunning play of sunlight and shadows on the mountains opposite Didna campsite.  Check out my day 1 post for more details.

✈  Keep a watch to be treated to the most exquisite of rainbows in the most improbable locations. There will be rainbows forming left, right, center after even a small drizzle. Look out for them everywhere. We actually spotted one below us in the valley!

✈  Look for the reflection of Nandaghunti in the small pond at Ali Bugyal. Take a break at Ali Bugyal and revel in the beauty of Asia’s Finest High Altitude Grassland.

✈  Peak spotting! Nothing as delightful as watching a huge massif in some direction. Trishul, NandaGhunti, Neelkanth, Chaukhamba range, Bandar Poonch, Gangotri, Maiktoli, Mrigthuni, Chanyakot are the peaks that can be seen on this trek.

✈  Watch the sunset cast its fiery red rays over Trishul and watch the clear reflections in Bedni Kund. Walk to the lake and spend the evening on the bank of Bedni Kund watching the peaks, clouds and sun create magic.

✈  The Lammergeier or Bearded Vulture is a huge raptor found only in the high mountains. Look out for them once you reach the bugyals. Their wing span can reach to as long as 2 – 3 meters.

✈  Ask your local porter/guide to tell you stories of local folklore. I have told you most of the stories, yes, but still it’s an altogether different experience to hear it from them.

✈  Offer your prayers at Kalu Vinayak. More often than not, one tends to get spiritual at Kalu Vinayak, humbled by the mighty mountains surrounded in all directions. Go to a secluded place away from fellow trekkers and enjoy the solitude. Also look back/down and give yourself a pat on the back.

✈  Look for Brahma Kamal and Fen Kamal while going towards Bhaguabhasa. Brahma kamal, named after hindu god of Creation, Brahma, is a very sacred flower found only in high altitudes and seasonal as well. It is also the state flower of Uttarakhand.

✈  You know you have reached Wan when you’ll spot really huge Cyprus trees. These trees are so big, atleast 6-8 people will be needed to circle the bark of each one of these trees. To understand the scale of it, do try to circle any of the trees. Wan is the only place in India where you will find these trees.

✈ Take it slow and notice the myriad flowers all along the trek. All colors and all sizes and all types one shall find!

And that's about it. Roopkund offers a grand folklore, breathtaking views and an underlying mystery which makes it all the more special. Highly Recommended!