The tragedy of Khajuraho: A misguided stereotype shrouds an enduring mystery
Wednesday, November 30, 2016Sitting on the steps of a small shrine housing the imposing emblem of Chandela dynasty, a feisty prince battling a fierce lion, I remember being distinctly unimpressed with what I saw. Blame it on the marketing gimmick that touts Khajuraho to be something it is not, a grand display of Kama Sutra and assorted erotica. If a destination doesn’t even live up to its stereotype, then what is it worth really? The illusion shattered furthermore when I learnt that Khajuraho is not even the only temple that contains erotic carvings in India. There are at least 15 more across the country that we know of, including well-known ones such as Sun temple of Konark, Jain temples of Ranakpur and even Virupaksha temple of Hampi.
Kandariya Mahadev Temple in the western complex
Earlier this month, I walked into the manicured lawns of Khajuraho’s Western group of temples – a cluster of the most prominent and well preserved of the 20 remaining temples today. Chandelas who ruled over parts of central India between 10th and 13th centuries undertook the massive task of commissioning these sandstone marvels. It’s a testament to the rulers’ commitment to the cause and the virtuosity of the architects as well as sculptors that 85 of these temples were constructed in a short span of two centuries – a miracle considering each temple required countless man-hours. History Channel even attempted a telling recreation in an episode cringe-worthily named “Lost Worlds: Kama Sutra” given that Kama Sutra and Khajuraho have little to do with each other and are separated by at least six centuries.
In the warm glow of that quiet winter evening, the sandstone temples of Khajuraho gleamed like gold rising out of a field of green. Women in colorful sarees stomped down the pathways crisscrossing the lawns in the far distance. The hushed winds whipped up a surreal aura when it suddenly dawned on me that these temples have stood witness to time for one whole millennium - a thousand years! There, that was the magic I could be more invested in. The next morning, trying to make more sense of Khajuraho’s allure which still didn’t quite get to me, I enlisted the help of one Gopal ji, a government approved guide who would go on to give me a lot of food for thought over the course of the day.
Indian tourists walking in the Western Temple Complex in Khajuraho. I was quite surprised to find more domestic tourists than international here.
Under the shade of a towering tree, Gopal ji diligently retold the history of Khajuraho and Chandelas as he was taught. One thing stood out from his spiel, was that Chandelas were great patrons of Jainism too. No wonder then, Eastern Group of temples were home to three Jain temples built in the similar architectural style as the Hindu temples of Khajuraho and didn’t seem to have any eroticism but were peppered with Jain iconography.
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Intricate frieze on Adinath Temple (L) and Mahaveer idol inside Parshwanath Temple(R) of eastern complex. | |
“Because of the growing popularity of Buddhism, which they wanted to suppress, the Chandelas could’ve given patronage to Jains, who then thrived in Khajuraho during Chandela rule”, he mentioned in passing. Romila Thapar, a noted historian also surmises that one of the reasons there was a profusion of erotic art in the early centuries of this millennium was to counteract the tenets of Buddhism that propounded celibacy and rejection of all earthly desires. Edifying eroticism in temples and literature could’ve been a strategic move to retain the Hindu masses that wandered to the fringes of Buddhism’s austere spirituality.
While it was clear that Khajuraho’s temples were so much more than erotic sculptures, it was only when my guide diligently pointed out the intricacies of the carvings did I start taking note of the supreme craftsmanship at display here. The sculptures were evocative, expressive and very realistic, no small feat considering they were carved in stone. As we moved from Lakshmana temple to Kandariya Mahadev temple, it was noticeable that the sculptors refined their skill over the years and the sculptures became more evocative and slender too. However I couldn’t shake off the questions stirring in my mind. Why did the Chandelas build 85 of these temples in this remote corner? Was it their way of leaving a lasting legacy? While I was lost in these thoughts, our guide commiserated how the stereotype obscures the architectural splendor of these great constructions.
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Kandariya Mahadev Temple (L) and Devi Jagadambi Temple(R) of western complex. | |
Invariably someone exclaimed, “What happened to us?” looking at the mithunas (erotic sculptures) of Lakshmana Temple. What happened is that a thousand years passed, during which Islamic and Victorian influences altered our culture. But that’s not really the point. Even though Khajuraho temples are of Hindu origin, it is pertinent to note that Chandelas were believed to be practitioners of Tantra cult, which was always esoteric in nature and by no means represented the more traditional and conservative form of Hinduism followed across the sub continent. So, no, India didn’t suddenly regress from being a country full of sexual liberals to repressed bigots.
Sexual liberation was prominent in Tantric culture but never an eminent part of India’s culture. If it were, we’d be having many more lascivious artworks littered on our temple friezes. Instead we now have fewer temples featuring erotic sculptures than a person can count on his fingers and toes together. Modern day debauchery in the name of Tantra has brought the once prevalent cult a lot of bad name (it is now exclusively associated with hedonistic sex and sensual massages) but in the time of Chandelas and before, Tantric worship was a profoundly spiritual pursuit which propounded sexual ritualism (which could be a deep metaphor for all we know) as a means towards spiritual enlightenment. I’m inclined to consider this theory given the oldest temple currently standing in Khajuraho is of Chausath(64) Yogini signifying yogini worship that is an integral part of Tantric cult was prevalent here.
It annoys me that something so mystical has been reduced to something so outwardly carnal – or something equally vague and untenable as the theory that the erotic sculptures were meant for educational purposes. That logic could be rational, but the lack of possible motive in advocating bestiality and orgies belies it. It probably is just easier for the local guides who have admirably learned to explain the erotic sculptures as “loving couple” without even wincing than to delve into the specifics of the Tantric connection and its multiple allegories.
The duality of unabashed aggrandizement of sensuality that clashes with the recurring motif of scorpion on the thigh that supposedly represents “poisonous lust” is where I would say, lies the true allure of Khajuraho. Even the origin of the name Khajuraho is not definite. Two date palm trees mentioned in scriptures but not seen physically could either have inspired it or the scorpion that isn’t mentioned anywhere but the motif is observed – unsurprisingly both translate to “Kharjur” in Sanskrit! Double entendres abound in these temples and I’m not entirely sure that the message, whatever the sculptures are meant to convey, is supposed to be taken at their face value.
We have no idea what the intention was. We have little understanding of the iconography here and as a result we have let the world brazenly brand Khajuraho as India’s temples of sex and the one shining example of conservative India’s lost liberalism. Not that there is anything wrong with it, it’s just that without any real knowledge, the sobriquet is as misguided as a shot in the dark that only panders to the western stereotype of eastern exoticism, eschewing a holistic view and offering little insight of any real value.
Now that I’ve pontificated enough, it bears to mention that less than 10% of Khajuraho’s carvings are erotic in nature. Standing under the shadow of an enormous tree as Gopal ji went on with his well memorized discourse, I remember my thoughts drifting to future when someone would discover a scripture or some buried treasure that would finally reveal the secrets of Khajuraho to us. And what a momentous unraveling that would be! I can only wish ASI and our historians would invest more thought and work into these glorious temples that are undoubtedly a time capsule from an intriguing epoch we know little about.
The allure of Khajuraho, I now realize, lies in its timeless tenacity and the untold stories it is holding within.
Note: This post is published as part of the #ChaloMPwithHolidayIQ campaign and I was hosted by HolidayIQ in Madhya Pradesh, in collaboration with MP Tourism.
Note: This post is published as part of the #ChaloMPwithHolidayIQ campaign and I was hosted by HolidayIQ in Madhya Pradesh, in collaboration with MP Tourism.
20 comments
The architecture just blew me over, so intricate it is! Loved your journey here.
ReplyDeleteMe too! That's the problem with stereotypes, it only tells an incomplete story.
DeleteNicely written, i visited Khajuraho as a school kid and as being in an all boys school it was quite mind boggling as you can imagine. Your story offers some interesting insights about why there could have been erotic sculptures on these temples. Apparently sex sells, even then! Incidentally, the Vishnu temple in Lothal in Maharashtra also has some erotic iconography and makes an interesting addition to a visit to the famous meteorite crater. Lothal, rather interestingly also has a Brahma temple, fairly rare in India. Check it out, I think you will like it. https://rediscoveryproject.com/2016/09/13/why-lonar-crater-needs-to-be-on-your-travel-list/
ReplyDeleteHa ha, I can imagine, must've been quite something looking for all the hidden erotica! Seems like a lot of the sun temples have this recurring motif of erotic sculptures, wonder what's the connection. And even Khajuraho has a Brahma temple, although I didn't visit. Also, I suppose you mean Lonar and Lothal?
DeleteHi Neelima,
ReplyDeleteQuite an interesting article and liked that you brought out the fact that Khajuraho temples aren't the only ones with erotic sculptures. I'd been to Sun Temple in Modhera near Ahmedabad. There too there was a lot of erotic art on the temple exteriors. Think it's peculiar to Sun temples.
Also didn't know the Khajuraho temple complex has 85 temples. Wow that's a huge number.
Nimish
I'm surprised how this is not well known, that so many other temples have erotic carvings! There are many posts online listing at least 15 different temples. There surely seems to be a sun/Brahma temple connection. But there are again few anomalies such as Hoyasala temples, Virupaskha of Hampi and Ranakpur Jain temples.
DeleteAnd yeah, I can't get over the fact that Chandelas built 85 temples! And that only 22 of them are left. Wondering if they met their natural end or if they were desecrated by someone. Phew, so many questions about Khajuraho. :D
Great article Neelima. I know I certainly saw beyond the misguided stereotype of this wonderful temple complex. However it a stereotype that gets hammered in the mainstream travel brochures. I relished my time here, appreciating the beauty of all the carvings and looking beyond the small percentage of erotic sculptures I saw a storyboard of life and lives.
ReplyDeleteSorry, I didn't mean to post as unknown...I am a real life person :)
DeleteHa ha, thanks Natasha! I wish there was more information to read and learn about the temples of Khajuraho. :)
DeleteArticle is very interesting to read i love that so much
ReplyDeleteFantastic piece of writing. You are surely moving away from promoting a travel destination to starting a need to rethink the way we see the world and culture. Tantra still remains as an exotic lifestyle with few takers. Unfortunately, our society is still stuck in an old age stereotypical time warp. Concepts like these need patrons. Sadly, unlike the older days, we have failed to progress in a collective intellectual capacity.
ReplyDeleteThanks Vaibhav! I wasn't expecting to, but I got so involved in all the theories surrounding Khajuraho that I'll forever watch out for any breakthroughs in understanding the purpose and history of these temples. And yes, Tantric cult was a surprise to me. Seems very complex and polysemic but would love to understand more about it someday.
DeleteBrilliant piece of writing and excellent information. I was recently in Jaisalmer and was mighty surprised with a few erotic carvings on the Jain Temples there. Haven't been to Khajuraho yet, so do not know about it.
ReplyDeleteSlow claps for this 'breaking the stereotypes' post.
Travelshoebum
Oh yeah? See, there are so many more temples with erotic art and no one knows why! Also, even Ranakpur Jain temples seem to have some erotica. Sigh, mysteries, the best and worst part of history. ;) I'm glad you enjoyed this post, Shubham. I quite enjoyed writing this.
DeleteLove that you've been so honest here (I started to say honest in this post - but "this post" sounded too blah for something so heartfelt). Wouldn't you just love to go back and look at it all again, unbothered by time, a story or a guide? Your pictures as always are stunning!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sandeepa, pleasantly surprised by the pictures I got from Khajuraho. It was a place I was least expecting to get good shots from, but turns they are the best I've got from the entire trip. :D
DeleteAnd you know what? I wouldn't perhaps want to go back at all, not unless I'm accompanied by a historian. I'm infinitely intrigued by what we don't about Khajuraho, I want someone to decipher these for me. I've left a huge reply on Deepika's comment below about that, do take a look if you can. It's such a great mystery, I just cannot get over it.
It is true. The temples of Puri, Pattadkal are no less beautiful than the ones in Khajurao. But I also feel that marketing has a big role to play in it. And if that is the case, the credit goes to MP Tourism. The thing is masses today know more about Khajurao, than Pattadkal. And therefore I think it works. But yes- marketing can actually cloud the real essence of a destination.
ReplyDeleteYou are completely missing the point I'm trying to make, Deepika. Also, Khajuraho wasn't marketed so by MP Tourism. It was ignorant western media and marketers(more than media), which brought a huge influx of western tourists but the enigma is now gone(Khajuraho is underwhelming if you look at it only as a temple with erotica) and for the first time in years, domestic arrivals have outnumbers international visits. In fact, the temples were even rediscovered by T.S Burt in early 1800s.
DeleteBut what we're missing in all this hullabaloo is that we still do not know anything about Khajuraho. Tell me one thing about Chandelas apart from being the builders of these temples. Tell me why they have erotic sculptures on the temples? Tell me why they were showcasing lesbianism, beastiality and orgies, clearly none of which seem to acceptable neither now nor in the past? Tell me what inspired the name Khajuraho, the scorpion or the date palm tree? Tell me why they gave patronage to Jain temples amidst a Hindu complex? Tell me why the Jain temples are built in Hindu architecture? Tell me why the oldest temple in Khajuraho belongs to yogini worship, were the Chandelas indeed followers of Tantric cult?
Countless questions remain unanswered because we refuse to see beyond the narrow prism of our incomplete yet dogged perception. There are countless mounds yet to be excavated, countless inscriptions waiting to deciphered probably. But we are happy stereotyping these invaluable temples of immense historic and architectural value as erotic temples or whatever, and sit like a frog in a well.
I would like to ask you to read the post once again knowing my intention and also do some research of your own, you'll see the tragedy I'm referring to. :)
Very interesting post, thank you for sharing! Mahee Ferlini
ReplyDeleteGlad you found it interesting! :)
Delete