2018 ~ The Wandering Soul's Wander Tales..

Secrets of India | 2019 Desktop Calendar

SALE CLOSED!
Thank you for the great response, as always.

2019 Desktop Calendar featuring
12 images from India that very few know about!

India's dizzying array of wild flowers, forgotten meadows, roaring waterfalls, hidden viewpoints are the least of pretty things that feature in the 2019's desktop calendar. Like every year in the recent past, I'm releasing a new desktop calendar to add some color and wanderlust to your office spaces and homes. But here's the catch- I'm not going to divulge the names of these places online.

These places that feature in the calendar were chosen not only for their beauty but also for their relative obscurity. Many(not all!) of these places are names you probably haven't heard of or haven't seen as many pictures of. I'm taking 12 special places out of my travel treasure box for this calendar. And you'll get a special note along with the calendar that'll explain the location & significance of each of these places in a sentence or two. I trust you'll keep the secret safe from the Instagram crowd! ;)

Let's get to the details then!

Size: A4 (11" x 8")
Price: Rs. 1250/-
Type: Tabletop/Desktop
Orientation: Landscape

Early bird discount: ~~Order within next 48 hours, i.e before Wednesday December 19, 2018 12:00 PM and get 10% off~~.
Discount code: ~~SECRET19~~

Place your order here :

A4 Size (11" × 8") Desktop Calendar

Important things to note:

Please note that the calendars will be shipped on or before January 10th, 2019.
One or two images may be replaced with other options if the current selection doesn't look good on print for any reason. Rest assured, all of them will be from India and they will surprise you.
The calendar will feature a minimalistic design like the previous years, indicative design sample here and actual product size here.
Pricing includes shipping and currently Shipping only in India.
For International Shipping, I can ship using India Post but shipping charges will be extra, about 9USD. If interested, write to me at neelima.vlg@gmail.com

Let's do this then!

P.S - In case short term calendars aren't your thing and you are looking for something permanent, why not buy a fine art print of any one of my photographs? See the collection here.

3 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Asia Travel

Prowling Leopards, Living Forts, Pristine Dunes & Rajasthan’s uncanny ability to Surprise still!

Kumbhalgarh Fort at dusk

I’m sitting inside my room situated over the fort rampart and I can see a live cannon to the right from my window. Below the fort, I see a patchwork of sandstone slabs and mud-roofed houses spread in front of me, beyond which an endless expanse of a flat, parched land specked with nominal green shrubbery extends till the eye can see. From my bathroom window, I’ve got a surprising view. The windows opens to the view of curved bulges of the fort on my left, the ochre houses that coalesce into the barren desert earth on the right, a road that snakes between these two and a gorgeous, red ball of fire rising in the centre. I had a front row seat to the sunrise from my loo! There’s a sort of winter haze I can see in the distance, a small glimpse of the season that’s few weeks away. The night however, is balmy with a tinge of that winter chill. The lights of the town below are faint and not blinding. I can see few stars shining in the sky, while the fort walls glow in a golden hue. I’m now sitting on the stone block that supports the cannon, pouring my heart out to a friend over phone late into the night while the world’s largest living fort sleeps after a day of frenzied activity.

Jaisalmer Fort at Sunsise, as seen from MudMirror Guesthouse

I am in Jaisalmer, in a rather touristy part of the town, and I’m struck by how much I’m charmed by this setting. Apparently, even the most touristy parts of Rajasthan still retain the ability to surprise you. Even after several visits, several thousands of articles and promotions seen in the media, and several decades of being the cynosure of travellers from around the world, that Rajasthan can still manage to draw me in is a testament to how endowed the state is when it comes to offering something new to the traveller every single time.

On the very same trip, I find myself in a deserted strip of pristine, untrampled dunes near the outer fringes of Desert National Park. The narrow band of endless curves and pointed sand peaks spread undisturbed in between two parallel running wire fences evokes a strong sense of deja vu. I finish my shoot and ask the guide the name of the place. The word he says next confirms my hunch. I had been here before. Eight years ago in fact. I had first stumbled upon these sand dunes on a unique weeklong hike with YHAI across the Thar Desert in 2010.

Pristine, untrampled sand dunes at a little-known location in Jaisalmer

Read: A gorgeous, offbeat Trek through the Thar Desert [NatGeo Traveller India]

After crossing the monstrosity that is Sam sand dunes, I was delighted to have arrived at this place where desert magic was alive and unmarred by unchecked commercialisation. Apart from my friend and me, there was no one else on the dunes. We walked carefully, anxious that we’d disturb those untouched patterns on the sand. But we eventually killed our hesitation and trampled on those untouched dunes with much glee, adding human footprints to the already existing collection of deer, birds, insects and other inhabitants of the desert. Two days ago, exactly eight years since my first rendezvous with these gorgeous dunes, I was back in the same place. And in those eight years, only a handful of tourists have made their way to this secret corner, which holds a special place in my heart. Frankly, I had locked this place up in my mind and never divulged it out on the interwebs for the fear that my excitement to share it with others would possibly ruin it for good. So I jealously guarded the secret till date. But Rajasthan surprises me once again by managing to keep our secret safe for so long, despite being overrun by mass commercialisation, mindless tourists and overenthusiastic tour operators.

Fresco on the roof in a Chattri in Shekhawati

Gorgeous frescoes and opulent doors of Shekhawati region

In fact, my first trip to Rajasthan eight years ago had been quite a revelation. The only reason I even considered travelling in touristy Rajasthan was because when I signed up for the YHAI desert trek, I knew I had to spend few extra days there to explore some more. But I avoided exploring the usual Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaipur and Jaisalmer circuit, since I have a certain disdain for ostentatious displays of wealth and feudal power and I rarely find glorious palaces and royal residences of much interest. But I would recommend considering a guided Rajasthan Tour Package if heritage palaces & wildlife sanctuaries interest you. And I love finding stories of common people and their lives. By spending days on the unusual trek and some more days in the fascinating Shekhawati region, I found a side of Rajasthan that I hadn’t considered before - one that was hidden, engaging and novel.

Even in Shekhawati, already made popular by some guidebook as the world’s largest open air fresco gallery, I skipped the famous towns of Nawalgarh and Mandawa and spent days wandering through obscure villages with gigantic, broken, crumbling, abandoned and colorful mansions. I couldn’t believe it that in Rajasthan, a state overrun by tourists, I didn’t encounter any during my wanderings in remote Shekhawati.

Read: The abandoned mansions of Billionaires [BBC Travel]

Before arriving up north for the trek and to see the havelis, I had quite an interesting encounter in the southern part of Rajasthan, where I had spent my days wandering around the countryside, basing us in Udaipur. One evening while returning from Kumbhalgarh Fort, I saw a leopard cross our path in the night near a village where men were casually walking on the road ahead of us. Two things surprised me about that encounter. One, that southern Rajasthan was forested and big predators such as leopards lived here. Two, that leopards live and move so closely among humans. Over the next few years I learnt much more on how leopards have always lived in the fringes of our communities and contrary to what I had imagined, they wouldn’t attack humans until cornered. But that stray incident in Rajasthan was the catalyst to reading up more and recognizing the misunderstood animal’s plight across the country. I truly didn’t expect Rajasthan of all places to teach me a lesson on wildlife.

Leopard sighting in southern Rajasthan

Read: When a Leopard crossed our path in Kumbhalgarh

Few years later I found myself gaping in awe at a narrow band of dark condensation in the cloudy sky, it was raining in the desert! On that trip, I also made my way to an oasis nearby where the greenery and a rippling water body felt so uncharacteristic that it would’ve been easier to believe it was a made up movie set than a real life scene. I spent two monsoons in Rajasthan since and I must say seeing it rain in the desert is right up there in the list of my most cherished monsoon chases across the country. Who would’ve thought monsoons actually make their presence felt in the Thar Desert of all places!

An oasis in the desert!

Read: Monsoons of Rajasthan - Photos of Desert in the Rains!

On that very same trip, I also was privy to a rare sighting of an endangered species that almost became the national bird of our country but lost that coveted title out to peacock due to semantics. Story goes that Great Indian Bustard, an impressive and one of the heaviest flying birds on our planet, found only in Indian subcontinent was also in the running for the title of India’s national bird but was rejected on grounds that its name could easily be bastardised to Great Indian “Bastard” whether in jest or all seriousness. However, that loss became the last nail in the coffin for the already declining Bustard population in India. Once spread all over India abundantly, by 1970s only 1300 remained due to extensive habitat loss and hunting, which further plummeted to a devastating 150-odd extant population from where there is little hope of species propagation. Desert National Park in the outskirts of Jaisalmer is the last remaining primary habitat for breeding of Bustards. There, I stumbled upon a majestic Great Indian Bustard flying in the distance, by pure happenstance. Once again, I was left to pick up my jaw from the ground in Rajasthan.

Read: The Great Indian Bustard’s last sigh [Livemint]

Finally, after all these incidents, I was sure Rajasthan couldn’t surprise me anymore. Then Rajasthan Tourism released a campaign that featured a stunning Chambal river with a horseshoe bend, bound by a forested cliff full of waterfalls and my jaw drops to the floor once again.

Turns out in Rajasthan, it’s always true that Jaane Kya Dikh Jaaye!

(Translation: You never know what you’ll see in Rajasthan)

5 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Denmark

Lost and Found on a Solo Hike in Denmark's gorgeous Beech Forest

1 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure travel

Explore Indonesia’s Raja Ampat – A Comprehensive guide to Asia’s most spectacular Island Paradise

14 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Asia Travel

Snorkeling at Indonesia's spectacular Raja Ampat Islands - [In Photos]

I stood at the edge of the pier tightly clutching the lifejacket wrapped around my body, debating whether I should jump into the sea or not. My boatman who doubled up as a guide was already in the water, waiting for me to jump in. Now I cannot swim and the waters looked frighteningly deep. But would it have been wise to miss an opportunity to snorkel in one of the world’s most pristine and thriving marine ecosystems? Absolutely not! So I pulled up my imaginary socks and jumped in. My guide dragged me around the pier while I squeaked like a little child, despite the snorkel in my mouth. What a wonderful world it was, unraveling beneath me!

I was in Raja Ampat Islands. Located on the northwestern tip of West Papua in Indonesia, Raja Ampat is the collective name give to four island groups in the far eastern end of Indonesia. This region supports a wide variety of thriving marine life and mind-boggling biodiversity. No wonder it is a highly sought-after destination by diving and marine enthusiasts around the world. And I got a wonderful opportunity to explore this paradise last November. While I have lots of stories to tell as well as videos to show about my time in the islands, allow me first to share with you my unbridled excitement at having snorkeled in one of the finest places on earth. It may look like I went diving, but that's only a testament to the unique marine ecosystem of Raja Ampat.

With two GoPros in hand, I was quite well-equipped (for an absolute newbie) to capture some of the underwater scenes. What I didn’t anticipate was the stunning settings we’d snorkel in. Not only were the sites well endowed with pristine coral reefs teeming with a variety of fishes, they were also extremely picturesque with deep waters and ideal lighting conditions. By a wonderful stroke of luck, my fellow travellers were adept swimmers, freedivers and great models. I had a marvellous time capturing these underwater scenes. I was practically giddy with excitement after looking at the footage and photos from our snorkeling sessions. If a newbie who’s never shot underwater, never snorkeled before and can’t swim, can capture photos like these by simply floating on the surface, you can imagine the effortless and unparalleled beauty of Raja Ampat!

So here's a photo story on snorkeling in Raja Ampat to begin with!

13 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure travel

Tso Moriri Blues - Hiking the entire length of Ladakh's Stunning Lake

12 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Instagram

Responsible Instagramming in the age of irresponsible Travel

12 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

india

Sikkim's Old Silk Route - How the New kid on the Tourism Block trampled my Expectations!

"In the spirit of keeping travel blogging real, here is my account how much our trip

sucked and some tips if you plan to travel here."

{ East Sikkim's 93-hairpin bend road above Zuluk }

The vertigo-inducing view of hundred-odd hairpin bends from somewhere in east Sikkim burst onto the scene few years ago out of the blue. Quick Google searches followed and we were all informed this meandering road that climbs an impressive height from the hills of north Bengal to the Indo-China border in Sikkim was taken from a place called Zuluk. Immediately shooting to fame for the noodle-laid-out-on-a-mountain like appearance, Zuluk and east Sikkim became the newest entry into the offbeat travel list.

But surely just a winding road couldn’t be all that interesting? Absolutely. It was a mix of ancient history and unparalleled mountain views that sealed the deal. This road from Sikkim to Tibet via Jelep La and Nathu La was part of the old trading route. It was also the route used by British to attack Tibet in 1903. History aside, Zuluk and the rest of the route being 3100m and over, there are several viewpoints that offer great views of Kanchenjunga massif towering above the hilly landscape.

Lost in the mist!

Fuelled by stunning pictures I saw of both Kanchenjunga rising and the symmetry of 30 of the 93 hairpin bends locally known as Bhulbhulayya, last summer I made a visit with family in tow. Poring through several online entries on the ever-resourceful IndiaMike Forums, I dreamt of watching golden glow of Kanchenjunga at sunrise (because I knew I was already asking for a lot here, Kanchenjunga sighting isn’t that easy now a days).

Also see: Goecha La Trek: Surreal Beauty of Sikkim, In Pictures

When the D-Day arrived, we were scheduled to be picked up from Kolakham, a small village in West Bengal that also falls on the extended silk route. But as luck would have it, it was written in the stars that our vacation would end the moment we left West Bengal border.

In the spirit of keeping travel blogging real, here is my account how much our trip sucked. I’m a very easy to please person when it comes to travel. Even if I manage to find a single magical moment buried in one hundred disappointments, I’d still say the trip went very well. So it takes a lot for me to claim a trip was a disaster. If you follow me on Instagram you’d probably remember this phase last year where I couldn’t stop cribbing about Sikkim and you were wondering why.

Kanchenjunga is hidden somewhere behind those clouds, as seen from Thambi View Point

Zuluk at dusk, surrounded by lush green mountains

"Unhindered views of Kanchenjunga massif and mind-bending view of the winding road with countless

hairpin bends - Two biggest attractions of Old Sikkim Route!"

Thick fog enveloped the mountainsides as soon as we started climbing to Zuluk. I could see neither the winding roads nor the layers of mountains but I kept my hopes high. The next morning would be better, I told myself. When we reached Zuluk, which is a haphazard collection of small houses and shops, we found that our hotel was booked by a rather large film crew shooting Priyanka Chopra’s Pahuna. I wasn’t expecting to run into a crowd but like I said our luck had run out already. And it started raining as well in the night. Firmly placing trust in the power of positive thinking, I told myself the rain will wipe out the clouds and the morning would be bright and sunny!

Also read: How I learnt Faith can take you places Fear never can, in North Sikkim's Deluge

Tough luck apparently. The morning was washed out, as was the entire day. Unseasonal snow and unwelcome fog ruined our prospects of an eventful trip already. The thing with old silk route, as this stretch has been christened, is the journey is truly the destination here. There are various stopovers, none large or unique enough to command a whole trip on their own. But it is the sum of all parts that could make the journey entertaining. The biggest attractions, however, were nowhere in sight. So we went on with the “checklist” of sightseeing points.

White out in the mountains

Thambi viewpoint was up first. It was a place from where the famous 30 hairpin bends above Zuluk can be seen.

We had tea and enjoyed blinding fog.

Gnathang Valley View was next. Gnathang is a small village in a flat valley at a height of 3800m, very close to the Chinese border. The big draw here is that Kanchenjunga can be clearly seen from this village on a clear day and sunrises almost always offer spectacular sightings. Since the snow hadn’t cleared still during our visit in March, we couldn’t stay there. But we could at least enjoy a view of the pretty village right?

Wrong. We saw more blinding fog. So we had warm momos and moved along.

Kupup and Memencho Lakes were the next on the list. These are small lakes on either side of the road from Zuluk to Gangtok. Our driver didn’t even bother stopping in that hellish fog.

We saw nothing. As expected.

Tsongmo Lake or Changu Lake was our last stop, where– you guessed it–more fog followed us. But since the lake was right next to the road, some visibility was allowed. We took whatever we could get.

Top - Mist covered Tsongmo Lake; Bottom left - Rhododendrons along the way; Bottom right - Remnants of the ever present skirmishes with China

"the heartbreak of an exciting destination disappoint like soggy French fries of the worst kind!"

The thing with travel is that even one small magical moment can turn things around. So I was still holding out to that last flicker of hope– that the next and last morning would be clear at least. We were stationed at Lungthung, a barebones collection of tin-roofed houses, of which few are homestays. I woke up early in morning only to bear witness to a sea of fog racing towards my guesthouse and drown every last ray of hope.

With that, I was done. This was one trip that I absolutely couldn’t even find a trace of silver lining. East Sikkim was a total bust. It took me almost a year to get over the heartbreak of an exciting destination disappoint like soggy French fries of the worst kind! Thankfully, my days in northern part of Bengal were lovely, so at least some of the resentment was evened out. However, I still would love to visit east Sikkim once again and get to see those phenomenal views of Kanchenjunga and the winding road.

***

Meanwhile, if you’re planning to visit, here are some tips from me.

I’ve read posts that mention monsoon might be the best time to visit east Sikkim. The reason, I presume, could be that even if the Kanchenjunga views are not to be found, Sikkim looks gorgeous drenched in the fresh monsoon greenery. Otherwise, winter seems like a good bet for best views of the mountain.
Even though the Zuluk route is quite offbeat for the rest of the country, this circuit is exceedingly popular with Bengali tourists currently. You may encounter many families from the state.
The homestays may include the word resort in their title but by no means are they resorts. This region is still very offbeat and the tourist infrastructure is hardly yet to catch up. So expect very basic stays but the views are sure worth it. And at this point, taking one of the many Sikkim tour packages is a lesser hassle than independent travel because the taxis and homestays are limited with set rules and pricing, run by agencies offering complete packages. You may still book individual homestays and taxis like we did but I did not have a good experience with that.
If you’re wondering whether the journey is worth it, here are my two cents. If you get clear views, I think Zuluk and Gnathang have great potential. Even if you don’t see Kanchenjunga, the nature itself is quite soothing around here. Unfortunate that I couldn’t get to see any damn thing but from the few pictures I’ve seen of clear mornings on different forums, I’d say 100% worth the effort. Exhibit A, B, C and D here. However, if the weather turns on you, there’s very little chance at redemption in my opinion. So have your expectations managed before hand to avoid disappointment.
What's a typical itinerary like?
Day 1 - New Jalpaiguri/Bagdogra to Artitar/Sillery Gaon/Mankhim
Day 2 - Artitar/Sillery Gaon/Mankhim to Zuluk
Day 3 - 4 – Zuluk to Gnathang including sightseeing
Day 5 – Gnathang to Gangtok.
Or
Day 5 – Gnathang to Artitar/Sillery Gaon/Mankhim
Day 6 - Artitar/Sillery Gaon/Mankhim to NJP/Bagdogra.
What are the best resources to plan Silk Route trip in east Sikkim? Hands down IndiaMike and BCMTouring forums, this and this for instance.

***

So, do you want to travel along Sikkim's Silk Route?
And tell me about your worst trip if you had one in the comments below!

5 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

calendar

2018 Desktop Calendar Sale - For the Love of Himalayas

SOLD OUT! Thank you!

2018 Desktop Calendar featuring a collection of 12 images of Himalayas from India and Nepal in Color.

The thing is, I have loved creating these calendars the past few years but it is way too much work and I've been really busy the last few months. So I dropped the idea of a calendar for 2018. But many of you reached out to me over email, in person, on social media asking for 2018 Calendar. I'm truly touched and humbled by the interest. So I decided to put a calendar out, even though we're one month into the new year already, featuring the epic landscapes of Himalayas, in color this time.

Let's get to the details then!

Size: A4 (11" x 8")
Price: Rs. 1050/-
Type: Tabletop/Desktop
Orientation: Landscape
Remember, I'm taking orders only between January 28 - 29 February 1, 2018

Place your order here :

A4 Size (11" × 8") Desktop Calendar

Important things to note:

The sale is active only for the next 96 hours. Place your order immediately if you are interested. Sorry for the short notice but since I put this together on request, I hadn't originally planned for the huge amount of time involved in printing and shipping calendars. I will need a week to get the product out, so if you close the orders by tomorrow night, I will work on it right away.
Please note that the calendars will be shipped on or before February, 10th 2018.
The months would be from February 2018 to February 2019
One or two images may be replaced with other Himalayan options if the current selection doesn't look good on print for any reason. Rest assured, all of them will be from Himalayas and look stunning.
The calendar will feature a minimalistic design like the previous years, indicative design sample here and actual product size here.
In case I do not receive an optimal number of orders to make the effort involved worthwhile, I reserve the right to initiate the refund within 7 days of receiving the order. (Pleeeaase let this not happen, share with friends and family! :))
Pricing includes shipping and currently Shipping only in India.
For International Shipping, I've tried but I haven't been able to find an affordable way to ship internationally, in any case if you're still interested, I can ship using Blue Dart but shipping charges will be extra. The item weight would be less than 500g and you can calculate the estimated cost yourself here - Blue Dart Price Finder

Let's do this then!

P.S - In case short term calendars aren't your thing and you are looking for something permanent, why not buy a fine art print of any one of my photographs? See the collection here.

1 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Asia Travel

Rammang Rammang: A Surreal Village hidden in Indonesia’s Karst Mountains

2 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

india

The Remarkable Beauty of Tamilnadu's underrated Wilderness!

{ Pechiparai Reservoir from a dam built over Kodayar River in Kanyakumari district }

Imagine sitting by a serene lake reflecting a deeply satisfying green instead of the blues we are so used to. Mist-laden evergreen forests surround the lake, lending the lake its color. The only sound apart from swooshing of wind and rustling leaves is that of distant birdcalls. Occasionally, a fish or a frog plops over the water creating ripples while a cool breeze brings the pleasant scent of fresh wilderness. Otherwise, it is tranquil, except for the beating heart that just cannot be still, lost in the jaw-dropping beauty of the land. If you pictured this to be somewhere in Kerala, you are mistaken. But given the title of this article, you must know where it could be, right? This would be at Kookal Lake in Palani Hills of Tamilnadu.

A small patch of evergreen rainforest around Kookal in Palani Hills

Roadtrip to Valparai through dense jungles

Eucalyptus tree lined road to Kookal near Kodaikanal

Evergreen Rainforests mostly have been wiped out of Tamilnadu due to deforestation but small patches survive like this one around Kookal Lake near Kodaikanal (Top); Roadtrip to Valparai through sections of forests interspersed by tea plantations (Bottom left); Eucalyptus lined road to Kookal through the pristine forests surrounding Kodaikanal (Bottom right)

Kookal – Where the grass is green!

Hiking on the Shola Grasslands of Palani Hills near Kookal

Hiking on the Shola Grasslands of Palani Hills near Kookal, Tamilnadu

Hiking on the Shola grasslands of Palani Hills, my first tryst with Tamilnadu's natural beauty!

A decade ago, if you were not from Karnataka, chances were you’d have had no idea about how wonderful Western Ghats really are. Even today, if you weren’t friends with some maverick travellers who take much joy in trawling the backcountry roads, to discover pockets of serenity blessed with unparalleled beauty, you’d have no idea how wonderful Tamilnadu’s wilderness really is. Luckily for me, I happened to make few such friends during my stay in Bangalore, which led me to being introduced to the greener and higher side of the southern state known more for its temples than mountains.

My earliest memory of Tamilnadu’s wilderness is of an evening high up in the hills above the resplendent Kookal Lake, 32kms away from Kodaikanal. Camping on a grassy knoll with a 360-degree view of verdant grasslands as well as layers and layers of mountains, our group of hikers watched a herd of Indian Gaur move into the forest on the neighboring hill. Unfortunately, a lone gaur wandered into our cluster of tents causing a little bit of havoc but it ran away to safety soon. Such a close encounter was an unreal experience, marking the beginning of a fixation. It was also my first introduction to the montane ecosystem of Tamilnadu, the lovely high altitude shola grasslands as well as moss-draped forests. Few emotions match the joy of letting yourself be surprised and Tamilnadu’s wilderness is just the perfect playground for such encounters.

Valparai – Where the wild things are

I realized this when a friend of mine who’s a roadtrip aficionado and an excellent, untiring driver took me to a hitherto unknown to us hill station called Valparai. I had heard heaping praises of this hidden gem from far-flung corners of the internet but a wildlife haven in the middle of sprawling tea plantations in Tamilnadu all seemed self-contradictory. Needless to say, we were raring to find out.

Nallamudi Poonjolai viewpoint on Kerala/Tamilnadu border near Valparai

Tribal settlement inside the deep valley at Kerala Tamilnadu border near Valparai

Goats lounging on the grass patches next to Aliyar Dam, Pollachi

Clockwise L-R: Nallamudi Poonjolai, a viewpoint on Kerala/Tamilnadu border near Valparai; Soaring mountains and verdant grasslands surround Aliyar Dam at the foothills of Valparai; Tribal settlement inside the deep valley as seen from the viewpoint

Surrounded by national parks and protected areas in every direction, Valparai is a little cluster of buildings in the middle of hauntingly beautiful mountains and forests. The town itself is garish and nothing out of ordinary. But here in Valparai you may find a leopard cross your path or watch a troop of endemic Lion Tailed Macaques observe you as curiously as you observe them or follow the antics of Malabar Giant Squirrels right from the roadside or even watch a herd of Elephants walk into a tea plantation. All of this sounds like it could be Kerala but it is very much Tamilnadu. But perhaps I should add that Valparai lies on the border with Kerala. In fact, the entire stretch of Tamilnadu bordering Kerala has inherited a small portion on Western Ghats before it flattens down to the plains. This section is gorgeous, thriving and mostly ignored in favour of the neighbouring behemoths of Kerala and Karnataka by the rest of the country. But here be the treasures.

Ooty’s highlands – Where good things come to those who wander

Ooty's Golden Everlasting Flower growing on the green mountain slopes around Avalanche Lake. The petals of these flowers have a paper-like texture making them last very very long. Hence they're often used in floral decorations and are a popular souvenir to take back from Ooty.

Ooty had been the reigning queen of hill stations in southern India for an exceptionally long time. Deservedly so as well. But its charm and allure were soon lost to waves of commercial gentrification and tea plantations leaving the once-famous hill town in dire need of being just left alone. So I did, until it presented a challenge like nowhere else – a 32 km cycle climb on a 36-hairpin bend road all the way up to Ooty from the plains of Masinagudi.

I cannot ever forget how intensely I felt the fear and thrill of cycling among wild animals of Mudumalai National Park in Tamilnadu. A herd of Sambar deer was grazing by the roadside when suddenly few of them decided to jump across the road, while we rode past them so close that I could’ve almost touched them. We cycled on through the evening and after dark despite the villagers’ warning that elephants were seen on the road. Another time when an opportunity presented itself, I left the crowds of Ooty in favour of the twin lakes of Avalanche and Emerald near Upper Bhavani Dam area. There, my evenings were spent admiring the plethora of flowers that bloom of the mountain slopes and mornings were spent on a hilltop watching the lakes change color as the sun rose. I realized then, Ooty, much like Kodaikanal still had a lot to offer. However, the true charm of both these hill stations manifested only outside the boundaries of civilization.

***

Clockwise L to R: Shola Rainforest at Kookal Lake; View of lush foliage below from the Mathur Aqueduct bridge, one of the longest in Asia; Surprise Rhododendron blooms on the Montane grasslands and forests in Palani Hills; Early morning mist drifts onto the meadows surrounding Mannavanur Lake near Kodaikanal.

Palani Hills – Where the best secrets are closely guarded

Storm descends over the idyllic Mannavanur Lake. Set in a depression between rolling meadows surrounded by dense montane forest, Manavanur Lake is an up-and-coming picnic spot near Kodaikanal.

I vividly remember the rain-drenched meadows around Mannavanur Lake one evening when we tried to take shelter under stunted trees, as an escape from ferocious lightning and thunder. After greatly being unsuccessful in trying to erect tents in that pouring rain, we spent the night at a local school verandah, listening to the thunder of storm and shuddering to every flash of lightning that tore the sky apart. The next morning we woke up to ethereal mist floating into the bowl-shaped valley in Mannavanur that’s at a distance of 32 kms from Kodaikanal. Pointed pine trees pierced the white blanket of fog and the ethereal drama reflected in the mirror-like lake that calmed down after a night of storm lashing it out.

Later that evening, I took my friends to the very first hill I climbed on my very first tryst with Kodaikanal, through a leech-infested jungle. Dripping blood from our limbs, we hiked barefoot on the rocky trail to reach the cliff top in pouring rain. Furious winds lashed out and the cold was unbearable to our soaking wet bodies. But nothing came in the way of enjoying the beauty of that evening. Jagged mountain edges spread out in every direction we could see and an ominous mist that hovered above those cliff tops. Summer, it seems had long gone in Palani hills; there was only lush greenery around. Not a sign of civilization in this remote corner that can be reached after a mere 45-minute hike. No wonder I fell head over heels in love with this little known corner called Kookal. It was only expected that I would return to Mannavanur and Kookal the third time. I did, with my family.

Kanyakumari - Where the lowlands rise up to the challenge

On that summer vacation with family, I made my way from the tip of Tamilnadu at Kanyakumari all the way till another tip at Dhanushkodi with an obvious detour to Kodaikanal thrown in between. By then I was already quite aware of the charms of Tamilnadu’s high mountains. But in the far southern reaches, there was more to be discovered. One afternoon, where it poured again, despite it being summer, I found myself jumping over a wall to see the jaw-dropping beauty of Pechiparai Reservoir. Through the evening, we drove though rustic villages at the foothills of cliffs covered in floating layers of mist and dense forests where light wouldn’t even dare enter. Clearly, I had barely scraped the surface of Tamilnadu’s wild places.

The jagged hills around Kolukkumalai in Palani Hills close to Kerala border

The jagged hills of Palani Hills as seen from around Kolukkumalai Tea Estate close to Kerala border

Naturally, my friends and I, we made many plans to further explore the roaring waterfalls of Kolli Hills, the secret mountains of Meghamalai, the dense jungles of Satyamangalam, the holy forests of Agasthyamalai to begin with. But life happened and everybody moved in different directions, leaving our plans to float aimlessly in a vacuum. Maybe someday I will go back to realise those dreams. However, I now fondly look back at the fortunate and fortuitous turn of events that led me to new friendships and fascinating sights in the most unexpected of places. For that alone, Tamilnadu will always hold a special place in my heart! ❤︎

Interesting & related reading that'll give a sense of Tamilnadu's wilderness:
Hugo Wood: The man who saved the Western Ghats
You’d Think Cutting Kodai Plantations Will Save Its Grasslands. It Won’t.
The Grey Forest in the Western Ghats

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, by Neelima Vallangi

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Place your order here :

Turns out in Rajasthan, it’s always true that Jaane Kya Dikh Jaaye!

Table of contents:

So here's a photo story on snorkeling in Raja Ampat to begin with!

Meanwhile, if you’re planning to visit, here are some tips from me.

So, do you want to travel along Sikkim's Silk Route? And tell me about your worst trip if you had one in the comments below!

Place your order here :

Kookal – Where the grass is green!

Valparai – Where the wild things are

Ooty’s highlands – Where good things come to those who wander

Palani Hills – Where the best secrets are closely guarded

Kanyakumari - Where the lowlands rise up to the challenge

About me

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Published With

Labels

recent posts

Blog Archive

Popular Posts

Find me on Facebook

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So, do you want to travel along Sikkim's Silk Route?
And tell me about your worst trip if you had one in the comments below!