The Wandering Soul's Wander Tales..: Andaman

Andaman's stunning beaches, well beyond Havelock's

Racing against time and a sky on fire, Ravi brought his motorbike to a screeching halt at Butler Bay when I made a frantic run towards the beach. I was hoping to catch the day's last light from the shores of Little Andaman, the southernmost tip of Andaman archipelago. At the behest of an acquaintance, Ravi, a native school teacher graciously agreed to play host to a fraught solo traveller who was hell bent on exploring this island with nonexistent tourist infrastructure but wasn't brave enough to venture that far without knowing a single person. He took the pain to drive me across the vast island and brought me to what was decidedly the best I had seen in Andaman yet. For starters, measuring over 22kms, it is the longest beach of the whole archipelago!

Sunset at Little Andaman's Butler Bay beach

Blazing sunset at Butler Bay, Little Andaman

Think Andaman and the first thing that pops into mind is probably Havelock. So as any offbeat traveller worth her salt, I did what I had to do – skip Havelock entirely to find more about the emerald isle's little known charms. Not only was I able to evade disappointment about my decision to skip the well known, I was also generously rewarded with long stretches of pristine beaches all to myself. Now that I've seen a teensy bit of all that Andaman keeps hidden, I'm surprised when most visitors dedicate a little less than a week to explore these islands. And I'm also told they get bored by the end of those paltry few days. Well I wouldn't blame them for getting bored if all they ever did was stay in Havelock the whole time (and not dive!).

But if your purview can go beyond Havelock, here are few beaches you could happily spend your precious time at. And the best part about these places is that, as with anything that's worth something, it isn't going to be offered to you on a silver platter. You've got to work for it; in Andaman's case that means putting up with long journeys and getting used to the island pace of life first! ;)

If you do, this is the spectacle that awaits you!

Disclaimer: If you’re looking for beaches with “activities”, let me warn you beforehand that you’ll find none of those here. These are deserted beaches with nothing to do except an abundance of raw beauty. I would suggest checking out Expedia’s interactive list of best beaches in India instead.

Lalaji Bay, Long Island

Lalaji bay, Long Island of Andaman & Nicobar Group

A sliver of white sand coast neatly curving along turquoise blue waters is the gift Long Island grants worthy hikers who do not mind getting their feet dirty either in the muck of the jungle or in the grave of corals. Far away from Port Blair and the crowds of Havelock, Long Island is a little speck of a land in the central region of Andaman. On one end of the island is the civilization, all of 2000 people and zero vehicles. On the other end, separated by an impenetrable tract of forest exuding a primeval quality, is a secluded beach called Lallaji Bay. Fringed by coconut groves and mangroves, this beach feels as far away from reality as it is from civilization. If escaping people was your intention, you’ve reached your corner!

Also read: Off the grid in Andaman (My story from Long Island published with NatGeo Traveller India)

How to reach: From the jetty/village, follow the red arrow marks to hike through the jungle or hike along the coast for 2 hours to reach Lalaji Bay. The coastal walk is along a narrow strip of sandbar that gets submerged as the tide rises and the other side is a mud wall created by eroded forestland.

How to reach the island? Look here - Guide to Island hopping in Andaman

Laxmanpur Beach, Neil Island

Laxmanpur Beach, in front of Tango Resort

Sunset on the white sand beach of Neil Island

Colors of sunset at the tip of Neil Island, Laxmanpur Beach

Despite being overshadowed by Havelock’s towering presence, Neil Island gracefully manages to hold its own with its smattering of wilderness and abundance of pastoral lands. Flat and devoid of dense forest, Neil feels much less claustrophobic which in turns is conducive to exploring the island without the fear of getting lost or risky encounters. Situated near the northernmost tip of the island, Laxmanpur beach is quite the spot for gorgeous sunrises and sunsets. At walking distance from two of the resorts at the best thing about Laxmanpur beach is that you can see both sunrise and sunset from here, it being the tip of the island with clear views on both sides, towards east and west.

How to reach: The beach is at a walking distance from Laxmanpur Beach if you’re coming from the beach side. But you’ll have to keep the tidal cycle in mind. Or you can ride on a scooter till Pearl Beach Resort near the tip of the island and proceed further on the small pathway through the jungle that leads all the way till the beach.

How to reach the island? Look here - Guide to Island hopping in Andaman

Lamiya Bay, Diglipur

Rainbow forms over the waters of Lamiya Bay, Craggy island to the left, in North Andaman

A freshwater stream joins the sea at Lamiya Bay, north Andaman

For when you get tired of watching the same old gorgeous white sand beaches, Lamiya Bay’s stunning volcanic sand beach situated in the northern reaches of Andaman offers a great alternative. Named after a small colony of villagers inside the forest with the same name near Diglipur, the coast here is awash with dark colored sand that sets quite a contrast to the blue waters of the ocean. Situated at the base of Andaman and Nicobar’s highest point, Saddle Peak, the beach is also a known turtle-nesting site.

How to reach: From Kalipur beach, where the Pristine Beach Resort and Turtle Bay Resort are located, Lamiya Bay is a 30 minute walk along the shore. There’s also an approach via the road.

How to reach the island? Look here - Guide to Island hopping in Andaman

Kalapathar Beach, Little Andaman

Kalapathar Beach at high tide, Little Andaman

Close up of the opening in the rocks that fills the lagoon, Little Andaman

Saving the best for the last, let me tell you that Little Andaman’s beaches are the stuff of legends. For decades, this island that lies well off the beaten path has gained cult status among surfers for it’s great surf. But it’s not just the surf that’s attractive, with the longest beach in the archipelago and blues that only seem unreal, the coast here is secluded, deserted and all for you to enjoy if you manage to make it that far. While the entire coast is stunning, Kalapathar beach gets a special mention because of the volcanic rock formations that form a curved barrier into the sea forming a great lagoon that fills up and drains as per the tide. A small opening in the jagged rocks opens into a view of the ocean and if you want to forget rest of the world exists; this is the place to be!

How to reach:

Located at the 13km mark (from the jetty at Hutbay. In Little Andaman, places are named after their distance from the jetty), just before the famous Butler Bay, Kalapathar beach is accessed by a road though the rehabilitated housing colony after the 2004 Tsunami.

How to reach the island? Look here - Guide to Island hopping in Andaman

Netaji Nagar Beach & Butler Bay Beach, Little Andaman

Brilliant blue waters of Butler Bay, Little Andaman

Tranquil morning at Netaji Nagar Beach, Little Andaman

Unbelievable blues at Hutbay jetty, Little Andaman

Situated between the 8-kilometer mark and the 14-kilometer mark, Netaji Nagar beach extends into Butler Bay beach that is one of the prime surf spots. Unlike the other island beaches, the coast here faces open waters of Andaman Sea and naturally the waves here are quite rough and strong currents run underneath. Unless you are an expert at swimming in open waters, wouldn’t recommend getting into waters here but these beaches are excellent places to sit by the shore and wonder if the blue is indeed real! Of course, please take ample protection against sandflies that will bite you to death and the occasional crocodile that unfortunately kills locals often.

How to reach:

Follow the single road that runs across the length of the island and you’ll find exits to these beaches towards the coast. You can hire bikes at the island and drive to these. Otherwise, share autos ply on this route frequently and you get around for few bucks.

How to reach the island? Look here - Guide to Island hopping in Andaman

Have you been to any of these beaches or discovered any secret spots in Andaman?

Note: This post was written in collaboration with Expedia.

10 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Andaman

The Amazing Forests of Andaman in Pictures

Andaman and Nicobar are a spectacular group of tropical islands in the Bay of Bengal. With about 86% of the land area covered by forest, A&N is surprisingly known only for its beaches and marine life. Islands are fascinating places and so is the ecosystem. For thousands of years, the forests here have grown undisturbed until the past hundred years where rampant logging and increased settlements have caused damage. Nevertheless, the forests of Andaman are still pretty amazing and old growth for most parts. Many of the species found here are endemic and I can only assume Nicobar is just as spectacular as well. Here are some photos of my experience wandering in the forests of Andaman. It is safe to say I was wowed and how!

The forests of Andaman are primarily tropical rainforest which constantly reminded me of Western Ghats closer to home. The canopy was just as green as the dense forest floor. The greenery was soothing and at times overwhelming. It was easy to get claustrophobic as you can see here. If we had to shoot Jurassic Park in India, this could be a prime location, the forest looked pre-historic.

Image taken while trekking towards Saddle Peak, Kalipur, North Andaman.

The forest extends all the way till the beach as you can see here. With zero light pollution, we could see stars clearly as expected with any wild place. The tide was slowly rising and after few minutes, the water was just a meter away from the forest. There are hardly any palm fringed beaches, instead dense forests stretch towards the sea. At many places, the water meets the forest and there isn't a beach to walk along during high tide. Seen here is a Mahua tree among others.

Image taken at Niel Island, Ritchie's Archipelago.

Sunset brought out the colors of forest alive. I walked few meters away from the beach and I found this path which almost looked paradisaical. Birds were chirping and the eerie silence was occasionally interrupted by a screeching insect. The sun sets very early in the Andaman islands and I ran back to the shore before it turned dark. Later we drove back on a scooty on this path to reach our resort.

Image taken close to sunset point, south of Niel Island, Ritchie's Archipelago.

There are no rivers in Andaman except for one small Kalpong River in North Andaman. There are several streams and crocodile infested creeks running across the islands though. This being a tropical forest, the water isn't refreshing cool like a glacial stream however it tastes refreshingly fresh. On my way to Saddle Peak, this was the only major stream we crossed where I could fill my water bottle. Few more meters ahead, the fresh water stream opens into the ocean.

Image shot in Saddle Peak National Park, North Andaman.

During the 2004 earthquake, the pressure of the water actually tilted some of the islands, letting salt-water flow into the tree roots. That’s why you see eerie-looking stretches of dead forest along some seashores and flooded areas. These trees were dead and really huge along the shoreline. I saw similar dead and uprooted trees across Little Andaman and Long Island.

Image taken at Lallaji Bay, Long Island, Middle Andaman.

Looking at the tall trees everywhere, it is easy to see the reason why there were upto 4 timber factories of the islands of Andaman. Mahua, Gurjan, the termite resistant Padauk and other such trees constitute the 200+ varieties of timber found in these islands. Logging has been banned to protect the ecosystem of Andaman & Nicobar and the timber factories have been closed since.

Image was taken at Niel Island, Ritchie'e Archipelago, Andman

This is what you see from the coast of Long Island. During high tide, water rises till the forest leaving no beach to walk along and the forest looks so dense that one might not want to enter forcing him/her to walk in the crocodile infested waters. The forests of Niel Island were relatively well cleared owing to its small size and abundant population. Long Island was much bigger with just about 1500 people living and forests here looked dangerously wild and creepy with huge trees and a lot of creepers and shrubs covering every inch of forest floor available.

Image was taken on the way to Lallaji Bay, Long Island, Middle Andaman

Like I said earlier, several streams run through the forest to meet the ocean in the end. Seen here is one such stream surrounded by lush greenery. During low tide, the water is barely ankle deep and easy to cross but by high tide i.e late mornings and late evening, the water level rises to waist deep or chest deep making it difficult to cross. Also increasing the chance encounter with the salt water crocodile thriving in these waters.

Image taken along the beach of Kalipur, North Andaman.

Little Andaman is a huge island between Andaman and the Nicobar group. Flat leveled, the dense forest was the prime target for severe logging and thousands of people from mainland and other islands have now settled in this island affecting the forest. A large area of the island is under the control of red oil palm plantation. However, the greenery of the island still remains. I saw the biggest creeks in this island, like the one seen in this image. There have been several cases of people getting killed by saltwater crocodiles and every creek has a signboard warning people to stay away.

Image taken close to Butler Bay, Little Andaman.

Creepy looking climbers and branches hang from the many trees on my way to Lamiya Bay. Between the pristine stretches of forests, several settlers have illegally set up small villages and cleared the forest illegally to use the land for cultivation. I am told towards North Andaman, the forests are evergreen and characterized by wood climbers. This must be it.

Image taken at Lamiya Bay, Kalipur, North Andaman.

As we travel towards North Andaman, the mangrove forests increase in density like anything. Traveling by the ferry from Long Island towards Erratta, we passed by several such entire islands of just mangroves, really tall and dense mangroves that could provide protection against waves in case of a tsunami. Later when we arrived at the jetty at Errata, it was surrounded by dense mangroves and a prime crocodile area with sign boards declaring the same everywhere. The total area of mangrove vegetation in Andamans is around 966 Sq.kms.

Image taken from the ferry going towards Errata from Long Island, Middle Andaman.

Seen here is the Padanus fruit. A visit to the Anthropological Museum in Port Blair informs me that this fruit is eaten by tribes of Nicobar. In Niel Island, when I inquired the locals brushed it off saying it is some inedible fruit.

Image taken on the shore of Niel Island, Ritchie's Archipelago.

Seen here is my guide Indro, standing in front of the very huge trees of the evergreen rainforest. I've barely seen any tree tops once I reached North Andaman. The trees were all very tall, the buttress spread wide. This is still one of the smaller ones that I have photographed.

Image taken in Saddle Peak National Park, North Andaman

This is the view through the foliage along the road in Little Andaman, at the far end one can the blue greens of the sea. It was in rare cases that I could see through the dense greenery to get an ocean view. Most of the times, it was just trees and such.

Image taken in Little Andaman.

A Tall Gurjan tree stands in the middle of the fields of an illegal settlement at Lamiya Bay. The thick wood is used to make furniture and is one of the several timber species found on the island. My guide, Indro standing next to the tree can give you a perspective of how huge the trees were.

Image taken in Lamiya Bay, North Andaman

Seen here is a Ficus Tree claiming all that is left of this British Building. The forests of Andaman and so alive and so aggressive, nothing can remain forever, the forests will take back all that belongs to it, sooner or later. And here ends my journey with the Forests of Andaman.

Image taken in Ross Island, Andaman.

So what do you think of Forests of Andaman?

I personally was mesmerized by the tropical evergreen forests, the mangroves, the huge trees and things green. It was the first time I ever felt I should've been here with a naturalist who could've told me the secrets of these forests. I hope this post can reinforce the thought that Andaman is a wild paradise and not just a beach destination. Also If you find any inaccuracies in what I've written please do inform me.

In the next post on Andaman I will talk about the indigenous tribes of these islands.

59 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Andaman

Guide to Island Hopping in Andaman, India

If untouched stretches of white sand beaches, gigantic forests that look straight out of Jurassic era and exquisite marine life is your thing, then Andaman might be the destination for you! Andaman and Nicobar Islands are a group of 572 islands in the waters of Bay of Bengal closer to Thailand than to Indian mainland. The islands are at a distance of approximately 1200kms from mainland. Blessed with immense natural beauty, friendly people and relatively low cost of travel makes Andaman a backpackers’ paradise! Of the 572 islands, only about 38 are inhabited and out of them very few are accessible in Andaman while Nicobar is completely out of bounds for everyone other than locals of Nicobar and govt. servants posted in these islands.

This list doesn't cover all the islands, for instance there is no mention of Havelock here. Most of the information is available online but for remote islands and logistics for backpacking. This post covers those aspects.

Complete Itinerary : Andaman, India
2 Weeks in Andaman - Photos of Tropical Paradise

Right Click open to see the map large.

Let’s get to the details then

1. Port Blair

The largest town in Andaman, this would be the entry point to the islands. Apart from few museums, water sport complex, cellular jail etc there isn’t really a beach here. All the ferries would leave early in the morning so if you get here by afternoon, you need to spend the night in Port Blair and head for the other islands the next morning.

If you like what you see here, you might want to consider following my travels on twitter or facebook or RSS or subscribe to the Wandering Soul's very new Newsletter!

Where did I stay?

Coorg Niwas Home Stay

H. No. 106/1 J.N. Road | Opp. Delanipur Petrol Pump, Port Blair 744102, India

http://hotel-coorg-niwas-home-stay-port-blair.hotelsgds.com/contactus.php

This is a clean, simple homestay close to the jetty and the harbor. The market is a bit further away and there isn’t much to see close by but if you are in Port Blair just for the night, makes for a good place to stay. Room costs INR 1000 and above.

2. Neil Island

The lesser known island compared to Havelock, Neil is a 2 hour ferry ride away from Port Blair. Neil is a place that still has retained the charms of an unspoilt island yet manages to give enough comfort for the traveler. Explore the fields, the rock bridge, Sitapur Beach, Ramnagar Beach and Bharatpur beach.

Getting there and getting out:

The speed boat (something between a ship and a boat) leaves from Pheonix Bay jetty every morning at 6.30am. During the peak season, book your ticket in advance as the same jetty goes to Neil, then Haelock, proceed to State Island and Long Island. There is no ticket counter at Neil, to get out, board the ferry in the morning and take the ticket once aboard.
Ship Ticket price from Port Blair to Neil - INR 195

Facilities available:

Bikes can be hired for as little as 250 INR a day to ride around the island.

For those who wish to snorkel with assistance, Niel has options at Bharatpur Beach for about 300INR.

Boating and Fishing can be done too, ask at the resort.

Where did I stay?

Tango Beach Resort, Laxmanpur

Phone No - +91 9434270454 / +91-9474212842

A lovely beach front resort, Tango is a perfect place to relax. The beach is just a minute away from the bamboo huts and the sunset point, the southernmost point of the island is just about 20 mins walk from the resort. Bamboo huts are available for 1000INR and cottages are available at a higher price. I would say this is the best property on the island so far.

3. Long Island

Far away from the tourist crowd, Long Island is as remote as an island can get. Apart from two tempos for carrying goods and 5-6 motorbikes, there are no other vehicles. You have to walk around the island through narrow roads and forest paths. It has no tourist infrastructure and visit this island only if you want to experience life in a remote island, dense forests and one good beach. Lallaji Bay is a beautiful unspoilt beach on the other end of the island and you could either walk through the jungle or by the beach for 2-3 hours or hire a boat to get there. Chances are high that you could be the only tourist on the island.
Ship Ticket price to Long Island - INR 195

Getting there and getting out:

I boarded the ferry at about 8 in the morning and reached by 1 pm. It takes a long 4-5 hour ferry ride from Neil, Havelock and Port Blair to Long Island only on every Monday, Wednesday, Friday (not from Neil) and Saturday. The boat to Port Blair leaves on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. Every morning a ferry leaves to Errata Jetty, if you wish to proceed towards North Andaman, to Mayabunder or Diglipur.

Facilities available:

Blue Planet does offer snorkeling, boating trips and Scuba diving at Long Island and nearby uninhabited islands too, but you might have to pay more because it will be organized exclusively for you, unless you find more travelers to form a group.

Where did I stay?

Blue Planet Resort

http://www.blueplanetandamans.com/

Phone No - +913192215923 / +919474212180

Don’t be fooled by the word resort, Blue Planet is an eco friendly property built around a tree using bamboo the traditional way. The rooms are very basic and separated by bamboo walls, even the flooring is bamboo. Book in advance during peak season as this place is famous with foreigners for its remoteness and Blue Planet is the only accommodation available here apart from forest resthouse. Rooms are available at 1000 INR which can be reserved online and 350INR which are for people who drop by without reservations.

4. Kalipur, North Andaman

Kalipur, is a small village 25kms from the largest town in North Andaman, Diglipur. Come here if you want to trek to Saddle Peak(732m) , the highest peak in Andaman, watch the turtle nesting, experience unhurried village life, visiting Ross, Smith and Interview Islands. Again, this place doesn’t feature high on the tourist grid owing to the taxing journey to reach here, but it is a nice place to explore for those willing to take the journey.

Getting there and getting out:

From Long Island, ferry reaches Eratta Jetty. Buses/autos ply from Errata to Rangat, 30 mins journey. From Rangat, you can get buses to Diglipur. Kalipur is 25kms away from Diglipur, buses ply every 30 minutes and drops you right in front of the resort.

From Port Blair, buses ply every day to Diglipur. No overnight buses are available as the Andaman Trunk Road passes through the Jarawa Reserve.

To get out of Diglipur, there are buses which ply everyday no later than 7.30am and overnight ferry service also exists few times a week. The road journey takes about 12 hours.

Ship Ticket price from Long Island to Erratta - INR 40 (I think)
Bus ticket from Erratta to Rangat - INR 9
Bus Ticket from Rangat to Diglipur - INR 200 (approx)
Auto from Diglipur to Kalipur - INR 250

Bus ticket from Diglipur to Port Blair - INR 300 (approx)

Facilities available:

Snorkeling, Scuba diving, trekking guide to Saddle Peak, fishing, guided night walks to witness Turtle Nesting

Where did I stay?

Andaman Pristine Resorts, Kalipur

http://www.andamanpristineresorts.com/pristine.html

Phone no - +913192272532 / +913192272532 / +919474286787

Run by the very friendly folks of Alex and his family, Andaman Pristine Resorts is located right by the beach in Kalipur and has all deluxe cottages and comfortable bamboo huts. The cottages can be booked before hand, the bamboo huts ranging from 1000INR, 600INR and 300INR can be availed after landing at the resort.

5. Little Andaman

If unexplored islands, really long stretches of beaches, pristine unspoilt beauty, breathtaking blues of the ocean, waterfalls and lagoons are your thing, then look no further than Little Andaman. There is practically no tourist infrastructure and very few make it this far but it is completely worth the effort. Devastated in the 2004 Tsunami, the island has returned back to normalcy and hides some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Andaman. This is a huge island, with a lot of people residing here. It even has two SBI atms and airtel, bsnl work like a charm. It is far but in no way undeveloped. This place is still famous for the swell and lot of foreigners visit here with the intent of riding the waves. Beware of crocodiles in several of the creeks joining the sea. The jetty is located in Hutbay.

Getting there and getting out:

Samsun, a cruseliner leaves from Haddo Wharf in Port Blair everyday at 7am. Tickets have to be booked earlier because locals do travel a lot to and from Port Blair to Hutbay. Another ship Campbell Bay runs between Hutbay and Port Blair, starting in the afternoon at 2pm which doubles up as a sunset cruise too. It takes about 5-6 hours. Speed boats are available too. Ships get cancelled frequently, so do plan on leaving two days before from Hutbay to avoid missing your flight from Port Blair.
Ship ticket - INR 260, cheaper for smaller boats

Facilities available:

Bikes can be hired for about 250INR a day, thanks to the foreigners who have made it here much before us.

Muthu, a local rents surfboards and teaches surfing at times.

Share autos to travel in the island.

Where did I stay?

Sea and Sand Hotel, 1km from Hutbay Jetty.

Blue View Resort, 8kms from the Jetty. Phone No - +91 9734480840

Sea and Sand Hotel is a very simple and basic lodge mostly for locals who visit on business. Room rates start from 300INR upto 700INR. Very close to the jetty but far from Butler Bay beach and Kala Pathar Lagoon.

Blue View Resort is nothing more than few shacks and a common toilet for all built across the road near the beach. Room rates are at 300INR and 500INR. Right across the

General Details

Who lives in the Islands?

Most of us might have conjured up images of aborigines with spears and arrows inhabiting the remote islands but the reality is far from that. Sad truth is the aborigines have been pushed to the very far corners and migrants from mainland are the ones living in most of the Andaman Islands currently. There is large number of Bengali, Tamil and Telugu population living here.

Can I meet the tribes?

It is fortunate for the tribes and unfortunate for the tourist, but as of now no one can visit the tribes. They tribal areas are off limits and human safaris illegal. So if anyone tries to sell you such a trip, decline.

What language do the people speak?

Hindi is spoken and understood largely, in the remote areas, one of Bengali, Tamil or Telugu languages will work. English will work with some difficulty in most of the islands where tourists are allowed.

Can I use my hammock instead of staying in resorts?

I haven’t tried it but I have heard that for a very nominal amount such as 60 -100INR, resorts will let you sleep in your hammock within the resort property and let you use the restrooms. If that is true,

Can I visit Nicobar?

Unfortunately no! Nicobar still being inhabited only by tribes, entry is restricted. However, entry to Nicobar can be obtained by applying for a tribal pass with valid reasons. But the tribes are not weapons yielding naked hunters or something like that, they are developed.

Can I camp on the beach?
Officially it is not allowed unless the registered hotel or resort arranges for camping with permission.

Useful Links
http://www.go2andaman.com/
http://www.and.nic.in/transport/index.php
http://www.and.nic.in/tourism/howtoreach.php

39 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure

2 Weeks in Andaman - Photos of Tropical Paradise

Amazing colors of the beaches in Little Andaman

We all know beaches of Andaman are awesome, but that is not all. The history of the tribes, the settlers who migrated years ago, the Jurassic era kind of forests and not to forget the clear blue waters, Andaman is a backpacker's paradise. Seen here is one such brilliant blue beach of Little Andaman.

Far far away from my beloved mountains and Himalayas, I took a chance by visiting the tropical islands of Andaman this October. I am not a big beach person, neither do I know how to swim so I went there with mixed feelings. Don't be surprised if I tell you I never got into the water beyond my knees, did not snorkel and didn't Scuba dive either! But I had the most rocking time ever! No kidding, here's what I saw during 14 days. However, before that, let me gloat about the bragging rights I acquired after visiting some of the most exotic and remote islands of Andaman! :)

Neil Island :

This was my first stop. Landed in Port Blair and headed straight here the next day with my friend. A quaint little island which still has managed to retain it's charms yet offering enough comforts to the traveller, it was a good place to start getting used to the island culture before I headed to the more remote parts. I fell sick right on day one, went to the hospital, got myself a small heart attack when the doctor checked for malaria, thankfully which was a negative. But the temperature was still running high, which is why I didn't snorkel. But that didn't stop me from shooting the stars though. The resorts are located right off the beaches, making star gazing and sunset viewing very very convenient!

Milkyway seen through the tall Mahua trees in Neil Island, Andaman. The nights are clear and there is practically no light pollution. A 2 minute walk from my room to the beach showed me this view. It was pitch dark and I was alone with the camera. I fought the terrible temptation to run back to the room, the scuttling noises of the hermit crab wasn't soothing, it only scared me more. But when my eyes adjusted to the darkness and I saw the stars above, all of that dread didn't vanish but the struggle to stay put seemed worth trying and the rest as they say is history! ;)

We stayed at Tango Resort almost at the southern tip of the island. It was a lovely property and 20 minutes walk on the white sandy shore would take us to the sunset point at the southernmost tip. But the sad thing is, sun sets so early it hardly gives one enough time to enjoy the scenery. It gets pitch dark by 5.30pm but while I was there, the moon used to give us good company.

If you like what you see here, you might want to consider following my travels on twitter or facebook or RSS or subscribe to the Wandering Soul's very new Newsletter!

Long Island:

Two days later my friend and I went separate ways, she took the ship to Havelock and I, further to Long Island. It was a long journey and I was the only tourist in the boat apart from locals. We went past many small islands scattered here and there. Finally when I landed I knew this would be wild but it was much more wild than I expected. I spent three days in the island with no other traveler in sight, walked to the farthest beach, drank fresh coconut water straight from the tree and wandered alone in the ruins of the island.

That is the way to the resort, I call it a resort but it is nothing more than basic accommodation surrounded by a lot of trees and bushes. The jungle in this island looked straight out of Jurassic Park era. Huge trees, dense canopy, thick undergrowth characterized the forests of Long Island. I woke up with a snake skin in my bamboo hut and it was after I woke elated that I survived a night alone in a remote island. Was a colossal FML moment! With the only ship having left for the day, I had no choice but to ignore the fact that a snake might have crawled into my room and left.

Wonderfully pristine Lallaji Bay, Long Island

The only saving grace of the 3 hour long walk along the beach was the beautiful Lallaji Bay. Far from the settlement in the island, this is one pristine stretch of clear blue waters. As of now coconut plantations dot the beach side and there isn't any provision to stay overnight. Eventually a resort is being planned here which might make this beach private. But for now I enjoyed the views, drank fresh coconut water straight off the trees and sat there doing nothing, nothing at all.

Kalipur, North Andaman:

Three days after I landed in Long Island, I took the ferry to Yerrata Jetty. The boat went through mangroves and several densely forested islands with no beach. It looked very wild and very beautiful. The jetty was constructed right in between dense mangroves, so much so that I felt I was in the movie Anaconda or something. Several hours later I landed in the desolate Kalipur, quite close to Saddle Peak. The remoteness of Long Island got to me and here I did not want to be in the budget bamboo hut far away. Instead I convinced myself that I earned some luxury, stayed in a beautiful cottage. Thankfully there was one other French couple in the huge property. I spent three days here as well.

On the way to Saddle Peak, this is how we crossed streams, if there is a fallen tree that is. Otherwise depending on the time of the day and the tide, we would wade through waist deep crocodile infested waters or just walk across ankle deep waters.

The impossibly huge trees of Saddle Peak NP, Kalipur

The ginormous trees were extremely intriguing. These forests haven't been disturbed for a very long time and it shows in the size of everything. Very tall, very huge, very green, very dense was all I could think. The forests around here are just as amazing.

Little Andaman:

After Long Island, Kalipur and the ridiculously tiring journey from Diglipur to Port Blair through the Jarawa Reserve, I was in double minds about visiting Little Andaman. Practically no one could give me useful information on how this island would be. Several phone calls later I finally summoned some courage to visit this very less known island and what an island it was! I can even claim that this was the best beach I had seen so far in all of Andaman. Three days later I had no intention of leaving but forced myself to return back.

Apart from spectacular beaches, Little Andaman has a beautiful lagoon at Kala Pathhar Beach. The water slowly collects in the pool here as the waves hit the black rocks. By evening the pool is full and it meets the ocean out of a corner. I sat here all day watching the pool fill up. Did nothing, absolutely nothing! Just watched the tide rise. Awesome day.

Sunset aboard Ship Campbell Bay, Hutbay to Port Blair

The ship journey to and from Little Andaman was an amazing experience. I went to the other islands on a boat, but since Little Andaman was across open waters, ships run between Port Blair and Hutbay. Watching the sun set in the middle of the ocean was magical to say the least. I stood on the deck till the wind threatened to throw me off the ship.

Ross Island:

Between the island hopping, I took a day to visit the popular tourist spots, one of them being the Ghost town of Ross Island. The once thriving settlement was abandoned after repeated earthquakes and water depletion. Today all that remains is the red bricks and the growing forest around it.

It was a rainy afternoon and I walked alone through ruins imagining the days they would've seen. It was just as eerie as it was beautiful. There was a cemetery with some old spectacular graves but obviously I wouldn't go. It drizzled all the time, the tourists left much earlier and I took the last ferry to Port Blair.

Rainbow over the wild North Sentinel Island

After two weeks, I heard a lot of stories and saw a lot of rainbows. But the icing on the cake was the one last rainbow seen above the North Sentinel Island. This island is home to the Sentinelese, one of the world's last uncontacted tribes! For now, I will have to make do with an aerial view of the mystery tribe. But two week, totally well spent!

So, how does Andaman look and which Island do you like best?

68 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Pages

Andaman's stunning beaches, well beyond Havelock's

Lalaji Bay, Long Island

Laxmanpur Beach, Neil Island

Lamiya Bay, Diglipur

Kalapathar Beach, Little Andaman

Netaji Nagar Beach & Butler Bay Beach, Little Andaman

Have you been to any of these beaches or discovered any secret spots in Andaman?

The Amazing Forests of Andaman in Pictures

Guide to Island Hopping in Andaman, India

2 Weeks in Andaman - Photos of Tropical Paradise

Neil Island :

Long Island:

Kalipur, North Andaman:

Little Andaman:

Ross Island:

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Pages

Andaman's stunning beaches, well beyond Havelock's

Lalaji Bay, Long Island

Laxmanpur Beach, Neil Island

Lamiya Bay, Diglipur

Kalapathar Beach, Little Andaman

Netaji Nagar Beach & Butler Bay Beach, Little Andaman

Have you been to any of these beaches or discovered any secret spots in Andaman?

The Amazing Forests of Andaman in Pictures

Guide to Island Hopping in Andaman, India

2 Weeks in Andaman - Photos of Tropical Paradise

Neil Island :

Long Island:

Kalipur, North Andaman:

Little Andaman:

Ross Island:

About me

Features

Published With

Labels

recent posts

Blog Archive

Popular Posts

Find me on Facebook

Find me on Twitter

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