A huge waterfall had my jaw hit the ground no sooner did I enter the gates of Atmantan near Pune. I was quickly apprised there were close to 30 waterfalls around the property that was set on a hilltop by the banks of a brimming Mulshi Lake. It was late July and I had just returned from self-inflicted sufferfests in the mountains of Nepal and India followed by a hectic work schedule. I was ripe for a short, quiet break! So when I got an opportunity to experience Atmantan's Wellness Retreat, a new property ushering in the concept of wellness holidays in India, I didn't have to think twice.

A portmanteau of Atma(Soul), Man(Mind) and Tan(Body), Atmantan is an integrated luxury wellness resort situated in the lap of Sahyadris. Overlooking the stunning Mulshi lake, the resplendent scenery offers a perfect setting to the healing of mind, body and soul. Encompassing a variety of solutions like the inviting 3-day Spa Life where the aim is to relax and rejuvenate at one extreme to the demanding 14-day Fitness Challenge that’ll build endurance at the other end of the spectrum, the wellness packages cover a wide array of treatments and therapies, all with a singular goal of achieving better living through a mix of holistic, healthy and alternative treatments.

Feeling the pinch of extensive travels, I opted to do nothing other than relax, something similar to the beginner Atmantan Living package. Comfortably housed in a room with ceiling-to-floor glass windows, I was sleeping, waking up and relaxing to the view and sound of low-hanging storm clouds relentlessly pounding the vast lake below and the green mountains in front of me. While it poured like heaven’s flood gates opened up, I spent my days letting the stress wash away bit by bit through indulging herbal baths and invigorating spa therapies. If I were staying here longer, for a week like most guests do, I would’ve also consulted the many therapists here who would’ve then advised and formulated a plan to ranging from fitness activities to diet and everything else in between.

The revelation that wellness is a serious business at Atmantan came via an odd conversation, when I was told that children below 14 years are not allowed in the resort. In a society where even the proposal of having child-free seats in a plane drew much ire from all corners of the internet, having a resort where kids aren’t allowed frankly left me impressed. The logic being it is hard to cater to children and their special needs while making sure the rest of the adults are not disturbed and well treated.

However, the biggest revelation at Atmantan turned out to be that healthy food doesn't have to be bland and boring. Frankly I was not looking forward to healthy eating because I love my food to be spicy and delicious. I mentally prepared myself, expecting to be chomping on sprouts and salads but what a surprise the food turned out to be! The quantities, measured to provide the right amount of calories each meal, were insufficient to my eyes but my stomach thought otherwise. Using only Olive oil or rice bran oil and spices in limited measures as well as removing simple carbs to be replaced with hi-protein food, the chefs here have carefully curated a menu that doesn't disappoint even the foodies among us! And unlike me, if you love sweets, fret not; sugar is replaced with either honey or jaggery or Stevia extract for the more conscious but desserts are served without fail.

As with everything else at Atmantan, due diligence is taken in providing a conducive environment that allows for ignoring the stress and work from back home. WiFi is provided only inside the rooms and not in any other enclosures including the cafe and dining areas. Without even trying, the partial digital detox inadvertently became the soothing balm to my frayed nerves.

Away from my laptop, I spent most of my free time gawking from the many balconies, pavilions and open areas overlooking the lake or the mountains behind. Initially, I was afraid I might have to find refuge indoors, missing those stunning vistas in that pouring rain but the huge glass panels everywhere in the resort made sure the downpour didn't dampen or obscure my days in any way. In fact, what's a better time to do nothing, if not monsoon?

I have never taken to the idea of Staycation or Wellness Holiday before but I can now fully recommend it for the tired soul. I think it works because I apparently came back with a new glow as a friend pointed out.

Spread over 40 acres with 106 rooms, Atmantan is a multiple-award winning integrated wellness retreat that deftly combines traditional and alternate healing therapies (Ayurveda, Pranic Healing, Acupuncture etc) with modern fitness routines (Yoga, Spinning, Gym Workouts etc) to heal the mind and body. For instance, this October, Atmantan Wellness Centre celebrates anti-aeging month where Dr. Liana Nenacheva, Master in Traditional Chinese Acupuncture, would be conducting non surgical cosmetic acupuncture therapies in addition to the existing wellness packages.

Atmantan is at a distance of 170 kms from Mumbai and 50kms from Pune. Room rates start from Rs. 19000 and a minimum of 3-night stay is required. For more information, visit https://www.atmantan.com to #betransformed.

Waiting patiently at a watering hole that's known for leopard sightings, we sat quietly, observing the parched jungle bleed its amber appearance into a sinister darkness until the moon rose. Four vehicles waited in quiet anticipation without the obligatory "Kuch dikha?" exchange, a scene you'd be hard pressed to find in any other Tiger Reserve. The sun had almost set. A barking deer inched closer to the water, wary of the humans yet cautiously proceeding. Later, a tree pie got its fill. It was calm out there except for the occasional peacock's call. None shifted in their seats out of frustration or boredom. That is Satpura for you, quiet and natural.

Madhya Pradesh's criminally underrated national park, Satpura is stealthily coming up as an excellent escape for nature lovers. Those who can see the forest for what she is and not only as a sum total of its inhabitants, Satpura is where you should go once you've seen a Tiger. Because it is only here you'll be taught to see and experience the jungle as it is, without the pressure of chasing the big cat. But of course, big cats and big bears abound here along with pretty birds and sneaky reptiles.

Come with Forsyth Lodge and me as I tell you how I fell in love with this unlikely national park that's setting new standards for responsible wildlife tourism.

The moon had risen as well behind us already. We drove though the buffer zone that night under a moonlit sky. Nightjars relentlessly called out. Indian gerbils scampered by our side and an Indian hare ran into the rocks startled by the sound of our vehicle. Green eyes flashed in the bushes; we strained our eyes and ears to see if we could find the creature. Nothing but the emptiness of a shadowed forest stared back at us. We drove later through a meadow; the stench of a dead carcass filled the air. Twice actually.

Now Satpura is one of the very few national parks in the country where night safaris are legal. Realizing the need to engage the wildlife enthusiast holistically and not just take them on a big cat chase, the folks working in Satpura have convinced the government to allow night safaris in the buffer zones. From screeching insects to metronomical call of nightjars and glowing eyes to rancid stench of a recent kill, the jungle felt through our other senses without the aid of sight is an inherently primal and deeply invigorating experience.

The next morning, we drove leisurely observing Spotted Owlets, Plum headed parakeets, White throated kingfishers, Scarlet Minivets, Serpent Eagle, Jungle Fowls as well as the blazing red leaves of Kusum tree, tightly-packed cream coloured flowers of Giriya tree set against the blue sky and the yellow Mahua blooms that filled the air with a sweet aroma. Meanwhile, a Honey Buzzard circled high above the trees, using the hot air thermals to rise up and look for prey.

Almost wandering aimlessly, we stumbled upon one spot where the foul smell of a recent kill filled the dry air. We drove past the stench in a hurry, the forest uncharacteristically hushed. Neither a single bird song nor a distant alarm call pierced through the silence. Nothing except the steady rattle of the engine broke the silence of the forest.

Suddenly, Aadhar Singh, our expert forest guide lifted his arm and nonchalantly announced, “there’s a Tiger, let’s go back!”. To put things into perspective, there are probably 50 tigers spread over an area of 1200 sq kms of core area and we may have just gotten a chance to see one! Crouching between the dried undergrowth, white stripes and lazy eyes stared back at us. We stared back in quiet disbelief. "Mahina guzar jaata hai yahan ek Tiger dikhne mein”, Aadhar Singh grinned, quite pleased with the sighting. "Badi billi mili, badi billi" his voice cackled on the phone later. We stared in disbelief still; the rarity of the moment hadn’t sunk in yet. The Tiger, not used to the prying eyes of humans, quietly moved into the thicket and we left with a profound sense of gratefulness then. Satpura had already set unrealistic expectations at this point.

The next morning, Radhe Lal, a lean man with a keen understanding of the forest and an air of assurance about him, was our forest guide. Little could surpass the previous day’s sighting but the forest was feeling generous with the poor humans who braved the searing summer heat of central Indian jungles. In quick succession, we first spotted a black bear scurrying into the bushes and minutes later we also happened to track a leopard cub crouching by the grass.

When we set out on an evening canoe safari on the brimming waters of Denwa River later that day, river terns and many other water birds created quite a spectacle on the islands trapped between the flow. But there was one standout, the spectacularly orange-beaked Indian Skimmers. Their long bills glittering like jewels in the evening light, we were told Skimmers are only seen here apart from the risky Chambal river region, their primary breeding ground. So it was quite special, to be able see them skim the waters here in Denwa.

One of the more exciting things to do in Saptura is to take a walking safari inside the core zone. Being on foot inside a teeming forest is a great leveler; it takes away all our unjustified pride and fills us with deep humility and an awe of the great wilderness. That particular morning during our short walk, we knew for sure that a leopard saw us move through its territory and stealthily walked past us. How do we know? Fresh pugmarks on the trail we treaded just minutes before. Relief was the bigger emotion than missing the action then.

Satpura’s landscape, the forest and its inhabitants are definitely special. But it was something else that left a lasting impression on me - the strong sense of ownership and a great respect for the wilderness in the community that worked in Satpura. It was Deepak, a young naturalist from Kerala interning with Forsyth at the time of my visit, who first offered a shining example of the ethos of Satpura and the wonderful way the tourism is managed here. Observing the bear frantically move deeper and deeper into the bushes one morning, Deepak said, “The bear is stressed. Let's not worry it more now that we've had our sighting.”

It was nice to hear those words; see that concern for wildlife. “When there's a Tiger sighting, all the other animals go into hiding for fear of the apex predator. The forest goes eerily quiet for 2-3 days right after. So we're not always excited about a Tiger sighting”, he helpfully added. Not just that, all the forest guides here are all part time workers and villagers who grew up in and around the national park. During a walk along the banks of Denwa one evening, I casually commented to one of the forest guides, Khet Singh, about the trash in the river. He personally felt responsible for it, apologised and collected the plastic trash lying around, stuffed it in his pocket to dispose later.

These guides could spot a big cat or a small spider with equal and admirable effortlessness as well as interest. They are all young and their energy is palpable, what they're missing in wrinkled experiences balances out with their high enthusiasm! It was surreal, to see how much these guys were in sync with the forest and her cues. I only wish more of us could learn to understand nature so intimately.

If I have to think of one phrase to describe Satpura, it'd be “a box full of surprises"! Once you’ve had your fill of Tigers, head to Satpura and see what the jungle feels like in all its glory.

Make it happen

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Situated at the edge of Satpura National Park, Forsyth Lodge is an eco-friendly lodge spread amidst 44 acres of reclaimed jungle. There are 12 cottages, featuring an earthy style that offers great comfort and luxury within the wilderness but built in ecologically responsible ways. From your room, you can watch the stars at night as well as observe wildlife during the day. The folks at Forsyth are one of the pioneers of conservation-based wildlife tourism model in Satpura which makes a visit with them all the more pleasurable.  More details here - http://www.forsythlodge.com/

Spend you time between jeep, walking and canoe safaris as well interacting with the knowledgeable naturalists as well as guides at Satpura National Park.

Note: My trip to Satpura was sponsored by Forsyth Lodge, opinions are my own nevertheless.

A huge bird flew in front of us across the barren desert landscape. The wingspan was at least 2 meters and the height was a meter or so. It took us a while but our gracious host had soon identified the bird for us and it was a spectacular sighting, one that was very rare! It was the critically endangered Great Indian Bustard that we had just seen; only 200 of them remain today. We drove closer to the edge from where the bird had just taken off, we spotted it gracefully gliding across the desert plains, where it allowed privileged few a peek into its world.

For me, authentic travel experiences like these come before anything else. I care little for where I stay as long as I am getting to see something new and exploring like a local. So, while Suryagarh’s invitation to experience Desert Monsoon sounded very appealing, I was a bit worried about the luxury part of it. I would never associate luxury with authentic local experiences. Is it even possible to be immersed in luxury but still explore a destination like a local?

And that’s where Suryagarh scores big and rises above than being just another luxurious stay. Situated in the outskirts of the Golden City, Jaisalmer, Suryagarh looks like a structure straight out of the bygone era. It’s sandstone walls, the bastions and the regal elegance might fool you into thinking that this could be a renovated structure. But the truth is it’s a newly constructed property using yellow sandstone and designed so that it effortlessly blends into the desert landscape, just like Sonar Qila(The Golden Fort).

The folks at Suryagarh will leave no stone unturned in making you feel like royalty – from escorting in a jeep with two tall traditionally dressed men holding up fluttering orange flags to raining down rose petals as we entered the property. The rooms were super comfortable and grand but the highlight again was the many different ways in which the local traditions and styles were incorporated in the interiors of the rooms and the property as such.

I personally loved the vast and open courtyard that would reflect the shiny lights when it rained. And it did rain while we were there. There are a lot of accessible open spaces within the property and around it so it never felt I was confined. The day we arrived we were taken on a drive in the desert for a sundowner, the sun was down already but the thunders and lightning matched the high-spirited melodies of a Manganiar singer while we enjoyed wine and cheese!

Dinners can be quite the experience at Suryagarh, one night we dined under the starry skies on a hilltop and the next amidst pristine dunes with no one else around. The little attention to detail goes a long way in providing truly unique experiences for the guests, for instance as we arrived at the dunes, the local folk singers’ melodious and timely rendition of “Padharo Maro Des” [Meaning welcome to our land] lent a magical touch to the evening.

The very young MD of Suryagarh, Manavendra Singh Shekhawat, has explored the deserts around Jaisalmer and has found brilliant little spots with no name. At the end of a crazy but super-fun desert offroading, it was such a pleasure and a surprise to arrive at an oasis. It was him who took us on a ride in the barren hinterlands where we spotted the Great Indian Bustard.

Along with the MD, the entire team at Suryagarh is focused upon offering authentic experiences, like the haunted trail fondly known as “Chudail trail” where we went exploring the haunted places in the dead of the night. Or visiting the abandoned villages of Khaba and Kuldhara where legend has it that 84 such villages were abandoned overnight and were cursed that they never be inhabited again. No one lives there today. In another place, we were shown several tombstones with stone structures and inscriptions in Devanagari script; it could be the burial ground of the Paliwal community villages but there was no way to tell, another visit with a historian might clear that up.

But like I said earlier, it wasn’t just the luxury that made the experience special, instead it was the pride everyone took in upholding the culture and tradition of their land. The local stories and legends were valued, passed on and displayed with much gusto. Suryagarh very well understands that a traveler is interested in discovering the secrets of a place and not just luxury, by combining these two they have the perfect offering for the discerning traveler.

Note - I traveled to Jaisalmer as a guest of Suryagarh.