A huge waterfall had my jaw hit the ground no sooner did I enter the gates of Atmantan near Pune. I was quickly apprised there were close to 30 waterfalls around the property that was set on a hilltop by the banks of a brimming Mulshi Lake. It was late July and I had just returned from self-inflicted sufferfests in the mountains of Nepal and India followed by a hectic work schedule. I was ripe for a short, quiet break! So when I got an opportunity to experience Atmantan's Wellness Retreat, a new property ushering in the concept of wellness holidays in India, I didn't have to think twice.

A portmanteau of Atma(Soul), Man(Mind) and Tan(Body), Atmantan is an integrated luxury wellness resort situated in the lap of Sahyadris. Overlooking the stunning Mulshi lake, the resplendent scenery offers a perfect setting to the healing of mind, body and soul. Encompassing a variety of solutions like the inviting 3-day Spa Life where the aim is to relax and rejuvenate at one extreme to the demanding 14-day Fitness Challenge that’ll build endurance at the other end of the spectrum, the wellness packages cover a wide array of treatments and therapies, all with a singular goal of achieving better living through a mix of holistic, healthy and alternative treatments.

Feeling the pinch of extensive travels, I opted to do nothing other than relax, something similar to the beginner Atmantan Living package. Comfortably housed in a room with ceiling-to-floor glass windows, I was sleeping, waking up and relaxing to the view and sound of low-hanging storm clouds relentlessly pounding the vast lake below and the green mountains in front of me. While it poured like heaven’s flood gates opened up, I spent my days letting the stress wash away bit by bit through indulging herbal baths and invigorating spa therapies. If I were staying here longer, for a week like most guests do, I would’ve also consulted the many therapists here who would’ve then advised and formulated a plan to ranging from fitness activities to diet and everything else in between.

The revelation that wellness is a serious business at Atmantan came via an odd conversation, when I was told that children below 14 years are not allowed in the resort. In a society where even the proposal of having child-free seats in a plane drew much ire from all corners of the internet, having a resort where kids aren’t allowed frankly left me impressed. The logic being it is hard to cater to children and their special needs while making sure the rest of the adults are not disturbed and well treated.

However, the biggest revelation at Atmantan turned out to be that healthy food doesn't have to be bland and boring. Frankly I was not looking forward to healthy eating because I love my food to be spicy and delicious. I mentally prepared myself, expecting to be chomping on sprouts and salads but what a surprise the food turned out to be! The quantities, measured to provide the right amount of calories each meal, were insufficient to my eyes but my stomach thought otherwise. Using only Olive oil or rice bran oil and spices in limited measures as well as removing simple carbs to be replaced with hi-protein food, the chefs here have carefully curated a menu that doesn't disappoint even the foodies among us! And unlike me, if you love sweets, fret not; sugar is replaced with either honey or jaggery or Stevia extract for the more conscious but desserts are served without fail.

As with everything else at Atmantan, due diligence is taken in providing a conducive environment that allows for ignoring the stress and work from back home. WiFi is provided only inside the rooms and not in any other enclosures including the cafe and dining areas. Without even trying, the partial digital detox inadvertently became the soothing balm to my frayed nerves.

Away from my laptop, I spent most of my free time gawking from the many balconies, pavilions and open areas overlooking the lake or the mountains behind. Initially, I was afraid I might have to find refuge indoors, missing those stunning vistas in that pouring rain but the huge glass panels everywhere in the resort made sure the downpour didn't dampen or obscure my days in any way. In fact, what's a better time to do nothing, if not monsoon?

I have never taken to the idea of Staycation or Wellness Holiday before but I can now fully recommend it for the tired soul. I think it works because I apparently came back with a new glow as a friend pointed out.

Spread over 40 acres with 106 rooms, Atmantan is a multiple-award winning integrated wellness retreat that deftly combines traditional and alternate healing therapies (Ayurveda, Pranic Healing, Acupuncture etc) with modern fitness routines (Yoga, Spinning, Gym Workouts etc) to heal the mind and body. For instance, this October, Atmantan Wellness Centre celebrates anti-aeging month where Dr. Liana Nenacheva, Master in Traditional Chinese Acupuncture, would be conducting non surgical cosmetic acupuncture therapies in addition to the existing wellness packages.

Atmantan is at a distance of 170 kms from Mumbai and 50kms from Pune. Room rates start from Rs. 19000 and a minimum of 3-night stay is required. For more information, visit https://www.atmantan.com to #betransformed.

Few weeks ago I went exploring Madhya Pradesh's various kingdoms, wild and historic both. Starting with the impenetrable jungles of little-known Sanjay National Park in Parsili, I reached the crumbling ruins of Baghelkhand dynasty's forgotten legacy next. If these offbeat corners satiated the sense of exploration that we so seek from travel, the well trodden trails of Panna and Khajuraho offered a balancing respite from uncertainty. You can see all the places we travelled to and the things we saw in this post - In Photos: From Popular to the Offbeat, north-eastern Madhya Pradesh's diverse charms.

Coming to the logistics of travel, here's where I stayed through the one week trip across Madhya Pradesh in collaboration with HolidayIQ and MP Tourism.

Madla Jungle Camp, Panna

Panna National Park has two entry gates, one at Madla and the other one is at Hinauta. While both the gates are almost equidistant from the town of Panna, Madla is probably the more comfortable option of the two since this falls right on the Highway 39 on the way to Khajuraho.

Madla Jungle Camp, run by MP Tourism Department, scores big points on account of its enviable location – it's situated right next to the Madla safari gate. Built in a jungle camp style with 9 well-appointed Swiss Cottage tents, the serenity of the adjoining forest spills over generously into the camp. Wildlife safaris with their long bumpy rides and ungodly wake up calls can be terribly tiring, which is why I loved being so close to the gate. You can peacefully wake up at 5.30AM and still be on time at the gate for the safari.

The tents are quite comfortable, air-conditioned and there's hot water facility along with Cable TV and minibar. Gadget junkies will be glad to find there are at least 3 separate plug points in the rooms (more if you remove TV/Fridge connections). Me and a friend were sharing a room and it was so convenient to charge multiple devices without worrying about schedules and alarms to switch devices put on charge. Also, there's WiFi only at the reception.

Madla Jungle Camp is a no frills camp, neatly maintained with friendly service and simple Indian food.

Tariff - INR 2990

Book here - http://mpstdc.com/Page/Hotels

Khajuraho's temples are primarily divided into the Western and Eastern complexes. Most of the hotels are located on the road towards the airport, around western complex, making it a bit crowded. Syna Heritage Hotel, on the other hand is located away from the bustling centre of Khajuraho in a quiet but vast corner. It's a short drive from both Eastern and Western group of temples by vehicle, and it's an added bonus that it's at a perfectly walkable distance from Western group.

The hotel is designed to incorporate traditional motifs in such a way that it evokes memories of royalty with its vintage cars, vast hallways fitted with latticework and rooms with jharokas as windows. The hotel looks opulent from the outside but the rooms are a bit disappointing when it comes to design. Comfort wise, they are fine, but with all the attention to detail in the interiors in other areas of the property, I expected the rooms to carry a bit of the traditional ambience too. From the inside, the rooms are like any other hotel, plain and simple with adequate modern fittings. I shared a super deluxe room with a friend and it was weird that we were given a room with a single queen-size bed. Not sure if they have double rooms with twin beds but do ask while checking in. Also, the walls are quite thin, so be prepared to hear everything that happens in the next room and in the hallways. Or get yourself some earplugs for the sake of your own sanity.

There's a spa inside the property which I didn't get to try and the swimming pool looked quite inviting. The restaurant is adequate and serves Indian and Continental dishes. Overall, Syna Heritage is one of the better places to stay at Khajuraho with friendly and attentive staff, offers great value for money.

Tariff - INR 4000 to 5500

Book here - http://synaheritagehotel.com/

The location is spectacular, you can actually hear the pleasant sound of river flowing even inside the room. We stayed in the Deluxe room which is the largest of all and is very spacious with even a sitting section inside the room. The crowning glory of this room is the large balcony that it comes with, which has a direct view of the river and mountains beyond. If you can choose, ask for this room, highly recommended!

Coming to the room itself, it's clean and comfortable. The staff is friendly and courteous. There were still some ongoing constructions at the time of my visit(Nov 2016) but it probably will be sorted out by the next season. They serve simple Indian food and there's a nice provision for a bonfire by the river side, which I'm guessing should be quite inviting during Madhya Pradesh's harsh winters. Overall, a nice property to stay at by the riverside.

Tariff - INR 1990 - 2990

Book here - http://mpstdc.com/Page/Hotels

Rewa is a small town, once historic, but now crumbling under the weight of negligence and bad memory. The town is littered with forgotten monuments that once were in the thick of the action but today there isn't much infrastructure here to enable a glimpse into that past apart from a fast-deteriorating fort, a badly maintained museum of Baghelkhand's treasure and Govindgarh Fort that's at a short distance.

If any of these things bring you to Rewa, your options for stay are limited and Safari Regency is one of the few adequate hotels available. Situated right by the market, in close proximity to Rani Talab and the Baghel Museum, the hotel provides a decently clean room. The rooms all seem recently renovated, so they're convenient but the toilets hasn't been renovated. They look worn out and are barely tolerable. Would've been good if the toilets were renovated too but it is possible to get by somehow.

Nothing to write home about but Safari Regency is a business hotel offering decent services with well equipped rooms for affordable prices in a small town.

Tariff - INR 700 - 2000
Book here - http://www.safariregency.com/

Note: This post is published as part of the #ChaloMPwithHolidayIQ campaign and I was hosted by HolidayIQ in Madhya Pradesh.

Tangalle, Sri Lanka's secret sanctuary of peace and calm near the southernmost tip of the island

My hair was in complete disarray as fierce winds lambasted my face along a rocky coastline at what seemed like the end of the world. I could taste the seawater that was everywhere around me, even in the air. Whooshing sound of the wind compounded with the ferocious roar of crashing waves at the cove below my vantage point where I was standing alone. Mesmerized by an endless carpet of blue ocean laid out in front of me and the drama of a clouds above, for a moment I forgot everything else, even the dangerously swaying palm trees behind me. I was at Tangalle, Sri Lanka's secret sanctuary of peace and calm near the southernmost tip of the island.

I arrived at Sri Lanka in the ungodly hours of the previous morning to spend a few days doing nothing but pampering myself and getting some much needed peace (life as an itinerant freelancer is awesome but tiring, believe me!) in association with Hotels.com. Considering I do not accept property reviews unless it's unique (it's been a year exactly since my last), you now know this place is special - the newly opened Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort set inside a coconut plantation on the secluded rocky coast of a yet to be “discovered” town of Tangalle.

Arriving in the summer heat of the tropical island, I feared if my so-called peaceful days would be restricted to taking in the views from the comforts behind glass walls but thankfully the thoughtfully designed vast open air spaces that utilize the local architectural style keeps you cool throughout the day no matter the heat outside! If all else fails, there’s a gorgeous pool that will do excellently.

Waking up to the faint sound of waves one morning, I rushed to the same corner on the edge of the property to witness my most dramatic sunrise of 2016 yet – a fiery red sky above a wrathful ocean. Later, I walked along the wild blue coast that’s unsuitable for swimming (but makes for great images) and plonked myself in the hammock overlooking the sea. Unruly waves hit the unflinching coastline with an admirable tenacity as I let myself drench in the balmy glory of early morning sun therapy. My mind slowly let go of all the worries I carried here with me — my wellness vacation was working well indeed!

But what’s a wellness vacation without a spa? Anantara offers revitalizing spa and ayurvedic treatments for a balanced wellness experience. Whatever remaining worries I had were comfortably forgotten during the 2-hour Anantara Signature Spa experience. I even went into a deep slumber towards the end. And I’m not sure if it’s a good thing or bad that I actually slept through it. Perhaps I needed this vacation more than I knew!

Over lazy lunches and dinners (no breakfast because I’m so not a morning person and since I’m on a do-nothing vacation, I’m not waking up before 10 ;)), I got to sample some of Sri Lanka’s culinary delicacies such as egg hoppers and the delectably spicy red chilli sambal among others. But being a hardcore south Indian perpetually hungry for spices, I was missing the sharp tang of spicy food. I had little idea then that my craving would be satisfied and how!

Cooking Class: Spicy Sri Lankan Food String Hoppers. Prawns, Fish & Chicken curry tempered with coconut milk and plenty of spices. Red rice. Banana flower curry

When we were beckoned to cook our own lunch one afternoon under the aegis of an Anantara chef, I went in with certain cynicism. I am not a patient person when it comes to cooking and supremely disinterested in such activities. So when we went shopping for local spices in the town market of Tangalle, I was left wondering what’s so special about buying Sri Lankan spices from a grocery store like any other. But there in lies the allure of Sri Lanka, those ordinary looking spice packets were anything but. They added such a strong flavour to the lunch we helped prepare that I was crying with delight while the rest were sweating from the heat of the spices! All of this was part of a bespoke cooking class called Spice Spoon’s Sri Lankan Culinary Journey and I can highly recommend this in a heartbeat to anyone intending to get a first hand experience of the delicious Sri Lankan cuisine — just go easy on the spices though, unless you can devour a whole chilli without a cry.

At the end of my stay, Anantara’s Sri Lankan hospitality worked its magic and I was thoroughly rested, well fed and the dark circles under my eyes were probably a shade lighter than when I arrived.

Set amidst 21-acre coconut plantation in Tangalle, Anantara offers 152 guest rooms and villas with garden view and ocean view. Doubles price starts from Rs. 16000 per night as seen in hotels.com

With 20 million verified guest reviews Hotels.com is a leading online accommodation booking website, ranging from international chains and all-inclusive resorts to local favorite and bed & breakfasts in more than 200 countries. Check out their site for exclusive discounts and loyalty programs such as special secret prices and earn a free hotel night after every 10 hotel nights booked.

Go whale watching at Weligama Bay or observe marine turtles nesting at the Rekawa Turtle Sanctuary. Go bird watching at the coastal lagoons and mangroves of Kalametiya Bird Sanctuary or track the leopard at Yala National Park. Indulge in a relaxing spa session or cook your own Sri Lankan dish at the Spice Spoon’s Cooking Class.

By road: Tangalle is at a distance of 195kms from Colombo and the journey by road on the smooth Southern Expressway(E01) takes approximately 4 hours.
By air: Cinnamon Air offers a daily 40-minute sea-plane flight from Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport to Mawella Lagoon in Dickwella, which is a mere 10 minute drive from the resort.

It’s very easy to apply for Sri Lankan visa online. You need to apply beforehand for ETA, an official Electronic Travel Authorization for a visit to Sri Lanka. You will get the confirmation within 48 hours after filling the online application where you are expected to provide passport scans and return tickets. Carry the ETA confirmation with you and provide it at the immigration at the port of entry, a 30-day short stay visa is then issued.

Passport should have minimum 6 months validity from date of departure.

It’s quite hard to exchange Indian currency at most places. Only option to exchange INR is at the local jewelers at big towns. It’s best to carry Euros or USDs if you can.

You can show a valid International credit card as proof of funds.

Note: This trip was sponsored by Hotels.com.

A Gorgeous sunset over the Mountains

Through the glass windows, I was looking at the night lift its cloak of darkness as a blue dawn fought its way through. The sun crept up the mountains that surrounded me as the first rays slowly flooded the room, the chirping of birds grew louder and I could hear the faint gurgle of the river below. I was still in bed as the orange light blinded me; I adjusted my position to keep the rays away from my face. While I have always loved the idea of waking up to first light gently falling on my face, it is not something that I got to experience a lot. But here at Kosi Valley Retreat, I went to bed every night anticipating waking up to bright sunshine.

I’m not a morning person on most days, but whenever I’m in the hills, I become one. It is impossible not to, when your cue to wake up is not the mechanized sound of an alarm ringing but the delightful cacophony of numerous birds singing. Plus, it helps to be well rested, in the lap of nature where your internal body clock resets itself (BBC: Can a week under canvas reset our body clocks?). Here in this valley, outdoor enthusiasts who prefer a nature fix along with creature comforts can have it all.

View from the bed, minutes before sunshine comes flooding the room

My days largely comprised of hanging out with wild nature; Pine trees, Kosi River, Himalayas and its foothills, star-studded night skies, Red-Billed Blue Magpies, verdant green terraced fields and such were my constant companions. I spent a week here without encountering another tourist, which seemed to be a rather rare blessing these days.

On clear nights, sitting around a warm bonfire and listening to the screeching of thousand insects, I looked up into the heavens tracing the paths of numerous shooting stars. However, lazy mornings were spent in the balcony with a warm cup of tea in hand, watching the daring pigeons and hill mynas flutter close to the roof while the little birdies flew in frenzy in the farther trees. Afternoons and evenings were spent hiking in the pristine forest that surrounded the property and cycling in the pretty countryside of Someshwar Valley. But on some days when the serenity of the nature called to do “nothing”, I lazed under a pine tree watching the sunshine escape through its sparse canopy. In the age of sightseeing, it seems we forgot how lovely it is to sit under a tree.

But that doesn’t mean I spent my week in Kosi Valley largely doing nothing. My plan was to actually do nothing, and in fact the place is perfect to just laze around with a book or saunter aimlessly given the serene surroundings of hills, streams and forests. But both Kosi Valley and the team really caught me off-guard there, I had quite an active stay with long hikes and cycle rides on few days. However, the thing that I enjoyed most during my stay was the complete lack of a planned itinerary and how the valley let me in on its secrets, slowly, at its own pace, one day at a time.

Every morning, Shivraj(the manager) and I used to discuss what to do and made plans on the fly depending on my mood. Surprisingly, I found something to do every single day. One day, we made a date with the snowcapped peaks of the Kumaon Range. The next, we cruised along the gently winding roads on Mountain Bikes. On another, we just went hiking in the rain. There was no sightseeing, there was just experiencing the beauty of the valley, often ignored and overshadowed by the mountains that rise up from their sides. Fortunately, Kosi Valley Retreat offers you a rare chance to experience serenity in a valley that is off the beaten track.


My time in Kosi Valley, In Pictures (13!) - A Slice of Heaven in Untrodden Corners of Almora

***

I stayed in the room on top left, comes highly recommended.

Kosi Valley Retreat is a stone bungalow set right by the Kosi River side in a valley between Almora and Kausani, offering 4 rooms on the top floor, with a dedicated balcony for each room which allows you a close look at the very active birdlife in the surrounding pine forest. The building constructed with stone and pebbles in typical mountain style is atmospheric, and the large glass windows and doors are a delightful touch because you can see the mountains and forest right from your bed.

If you’re into outdoor adventures, talk to the team beforehand and ask for a detailed list of things to do around before zeroing in on the number of days you will stay here. There are enough activities to keep you occupied for an entire week and more, so plan your days well in advance so you are not disappointed that you have to leave out certain treks or cycle rides due to lack of time. 

A small team of friendly staff from nearby villages manages the retreat and they take care of you quite well. And, like me, if you hate the oily atrocity that is thrust upon us in the name of Indian food in most touristy places, you will love the simple and delicious Kumaoni food served here. The produce used for cooking is mostly organic, coming from the kitchen garden within the premises. 

Kosi Valley Retreat is situated in a village called Simkholi, 30kms from Almora and 18kms from Kausani in the splendid Almora district of Uttarakhand, far away from the crowd and close to nature.

Kathgodam is the nearest railway station and Haldwani is the closest bus stop. You can get shared or full taxis to take you to Almora from Kathgodam, it takes about 4-5 hours to reach.

Note: My stay and activities at Kosi Valley were sponsored by Kosi Valley Retreat.