Panorama of 3 shots.
More shades of lapis lazuli and emerald green are waiting to see the light of day. Very soon. :)
But first things first, I am starved of authentic super spicy andhra food.. off to catch some biriyani... :D
Spectacular is an understatement.
I was wowed for two weeks now and it is time for me come back to a mundane life where the skies aren't blue, the weather doesn't change my plans, the mountains don't give me shelter and the world isn't wild! :(
It feels weird to sit at a cybercafe. (gosh! how long has it been since i used that word??!!) Today is my last day in Ladakh and I found some time and inclination to connect with the outside world.
There were days when the sun was shining bright and days when clouds of doom descended upon this land of endless discoveries. I have visited some amazing lesser known areas of Ladakh and I assume I was able to capture some spectacular shots with my new DSLR. :)
So stay tuned. Bengaluru, here i come!
I was wowed for two weeks now and it is time for me come back to a mundane life where the skies aren't blue, the weather doesn't change my plans, the mountains don't give me shelter and the world isn't wild! :(
It feels weird to sit at a cybercafe. (gosh! how long has it been since i used that word??!!) Today is my last day in Ladakh and I found some time and inclination to connect with the outside world.
There were days when the sun was shining bright and days when clouds of doom descended upon this land of endless discoveries. I have visited some amazing lesser known areas of Ladakh and I assume I was able to capture some spectacular shots with my new DSLR. :)
So stay tuned. Bengaluru, here i come!
All set to head to Ladakh:
After an evening spent with discussions and convincing for the greater part, my dad finally agreed to head towards Leh instead of the actual plan of heading to Kulu, Manali and Shimla! Phew! What a relief! So it was decided at 7PM that we will be taking the Leh – Srinagar Highway to enter Ladakh.
So now I had to pinch myself several times before I could get myself to believe that we were actually headed towards the azure waters of Pangong. Yes, by then I didn’t know anything about Ladakh. Ladakh/Leh meant only the blue lake that had charmed many. Reaching Leh through road was just a means to accomplish my dream of seeing the Lapis Lazuli waters of Asia’s highest brackish water lake shared by India and China. Little did I expect to be blown away by the enthralling journey.
That night we walked to the J&K Tourism help desk located close to the hotel we were put up. My dad was still apprehensive about our journey to Leh and he clarified the same from the help desk a thousand times that trip was safe. The options suggested by the J&K Tourism help desk was either take the bus tomorrow morning or hire a SUV to reach Leh. We leaned towards the latter option and found that the taxi owners had a fixed rate to reach Leh from Srinagar – 6k per vehicle or 1200 per person. Bus charges were 600 per person if memory serves me well. We hired a vehicle and later that night I drifted into peaceful slumber with a smile – a smile of relief, of satisfaction, of excitement and also of anticipation.
Leh - Srinagar Highway:
The 434 Km long stretch of Leh – Srinagar Highway is the main overland approach to Ladakh from Kashmir Valley. This road remains open for traffic from June to November. However we were very lucky in 2008 that both Leh – Srinagar and Leh – Manali highways were open by mid May. The tourist traffic was non-existent and the snow was still afresh by the sides of the road which made for delightfully dramatic sceneries. Notice how the scenery changes from lush greenery to arid barren deserts as we reach Leh in the photos below.
Our driver said he was one of the experienced drivers on that route and he had many stories to tell. True or not I do not know but interesting stories for sure. The plan was to finish the ride in a day and reach Leh by the same night.
~ VALLEYS OF KASHMIR, CROSSING SONMARG
Crossing Zoji La
We started from Srinagar around 9 AM in the morning and we went past the green meadows of Sonmarg, whizzed past Thajiwas Glacier before making our ascent up the Zoji La(Pass) at 11,500 feet. Officially this was the first pass we were scaling with this being first trip to the Himalayan ranges ever. And that was scary! The road was muddy, gravely and non-existent at best. The valleys were deep and the path was taking us higher and higher along the precarious edges. To add to the horror, the melted snow filled the potholes with water and army trucks started plying in the opposite direction by the time we were on top of the pass. If you are headed on this road, better to cross Zoji La before the army trucks.
After a tangy taste of the trans Himalayan road journeys over high passes, massive snowscapes were rising right next to us. The scenery changed from the dusty mountains to neat snow covered slopes set against brilliant blue skies. The clock read 12.15 PM and we were now standing at Gumri Checkpost. This must be one of the most uninhabited areas to station a checkpost monitoring vehicles all through the year – even in winters I suppose.
The scenery got better and better as we crossed Gumri heading towards Dras – the second coldest inhabited place only after Siberia. But now, in May, the sun was scorching hotter than ever. As we were nearing Dras, we could see abandoned hide outs and Tiger hill over the distant peaks.
~ DREAMY LANDSCAPES, MID MAY SCENERY
~ GUMRI CHECKPOST AFTER ZOJI LA
Kargil War Stories:
Our driver told us he witnessed the Kargil war in person. Apparently he was driving a BBC reporter who was paying him 35000 INR for a 150km ride I suppose, albeit a ride that could’ve claimed his life. Thud! Something fell in front of his vehicle he said. And then one more bomb blast he said. He said he ran to hide under a rock cover. Occupational hazard he claimed. That reporter would’ve had a bulky life insurance policy but what about me – he asked. But we, mountain people need to take risks to ensure our children can go to schools in the least he continued. It was scary even to think how our army fought in these unforgiving lands to reclaim our land. It is impossible not to take pride in these men who fought over these mountains. All victorious – only few alive!
Caution: You are under enemy surveillance:
We reached Dras at 1.50PM and it was 2.30 PM by the time we finished lunch in the second coldest uninhabited place on earth. ;) Winter temperatures could plummet to -60 degrees and needless to say, the villages are abandoned in winter. After lunch, we started towards Kargil. Our driver was telling us more stories from his pensieve. Soon we reached a vast stretch with a valley by the side and a mountain rising next to it along the length of the road.
“Caution: You are under enemy surveillance” read the signpost by the side of the road. Our driver was saying, Pakistan Army had set up camps at over the mountain top and it was quite easy for them to bombard us with bombs with this road being at a lower altitude. After few minutes the signpost again read that we were out of enemy zone. Legacies of unforgettable historic events left behind, I thought.
We reached Kargil by 4 and our driver declared he would not take us to Leh tonight and we would be spending a night here. After seeing how dangerous the mountain roads were, we were more than willing to abide by his decision. Since May was way too early for tourist season, the guesthouses were not ready yet and with great difficulty we managed to find two dingy dim lit rooms for us to spend the night.
Sleepless in Kargil:
It was not a pleasant night. I could hear trucks plying on distant roads or maybe cannonballs were being tested for all I knew! The room was dark and it felt alien to me. But most of all, the reason for my uneasiness was I was in KARGIL - The place that saw a hundred deaths, a thousand sufferings and probably much worse. The haunting thoughts disappeared into oblivion as the morning glow filled the room.
Day 2, Towards Leh:
We started off to Leh by 6AM. We left the greenery behind. Today was the official foray into the deserts of Ladakh. The scenery changed to brown mountains dotted with snow capped peaks. We reached Mulbek at 7.30 AM and the giant statue of Maitreya(The fifth Buddha) carved in probably first century B.C welcomed us. Now this marks the change in religion, culture and landscape from this side of Kargil to the other side.
~ THE CHANGE IN SCENERY, ENTER LADAKH
Crossing Namika La(12,200ft) and Fotu La(13,432 ft), past the ancient monastery of Lamayuru we entered the wind eroded and justly called lunar landscapes with weird colored gorges and rocks descending almost 4000ft in 32 kms to reach Indus at Khaltse. Further ahead nearing Nimoo/Nimu Village, we witnessed the grand confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers. The Indus was sparkling emerald green while the Zanskar was wild and muddy and the sight looked nothing short of grandeur. Zanskar exists no longer and it is Indus all the way after the confluence. And if you can’t get a perspective of its magnitude, just try to spot the jeep next to Indus.
SPOT THE JEEP?
~ THE GRAND INDUS - ZANSKAR CONFLUENCE
After heading further through the deserts to reach Spituk, crossing Magnetic hill, where your switched off vehicle will be pulled up the nominal slope by the magnetic forces in the area due to magnetic field, we reached Leh at 1 in the afternoon.
And so we were in Leh, finally!
And today I realized, Himalayas were not all neat and snowy but instead it was muddy and rocky!
And today I realized, Himalayas were not all neat and snowy but instead it was muddy and rocky!
FactFile:
Route – Srinagar – Sonmarg – Zoji La – Gumri – Dras – Thasgam – Kharbu – Kaksar – Kargil – Mulbek – Namika La – Fotu La – Lamayuru – Khaltse – Saspol – Nimu – Spituk - Leh.
Distance Covered : 204kms(Day 1) + 230kms(Day 2)
Time Taken :
Srinagar – Kargil – Day 1 : 9.00 AM to 4.00 PM – 7 hrs.
Kargil – Leh – Day 2 : 6.00 AM to 1.00 PM – 7 hrs
Water/Food availability : decent. Will be crossing many villages on both days.
Road Conditions -
Zoji La – worse.
Zoji La to Dras - good.
Dras – Kargil – Good
Kargil – Lamayuru – decent. Gravely rods up Namika La and Fotu La.
Lamayuru – Leh – decent to good.
Night Stay required? Prefered, Else you might miss out on scenery.
Night Stay Options : Decent Guesthouses/lodges at Kargil or Mulbek
Night Stay required? Prefered, Else you might miss out on scenery.
Night Stay Options : Decent Guesthouses/lodges at Kargil or Mulbek
~ CLIMBING UP ZOJI LA
~ SNOW BY MY SIDE, LEH - SRINAGAR HIGHWAY
~ BRILLIANT BLUE SKIES AND SNOWY LANDSCAPES
~ ROAD THAT TAKES ME HOME
~ DESERT WINDINGS
~ MORE DESERT WINDINGS
~ CHOCOLATE MOUNTAINS, VANILLA TOPPINGS
~ VIEW FROM FOTU LA
~ FOTU LA, HIGHEST POINT OF LEH SRINAGAR HIGHWAY
~ WEIRDNESS PERSONIFIED - MOONSCAPES OF LAMAYURU
~ WIND ERODED ROCKS
All you want to know about Kashmir - Ladakh *
* All means all that I know that I can tell you. Everything comes with a star these days! ;)
Every second plan I hear these days is Ladakh. Every second travel query I get is about Ladakh. There are two kinds of people in my world - Those who have visited Ladakh and those who haven’t. So I guess it only makes sense to write this post now better than later because it is Ladakh Season this summer!The next time you hear Guns & Roses sing “She’s got the eyes of the bluest skies”, it is this blue that will come to your mind once you’ve seen the amazingly clear skies of Ladakh. I usually do this kind of post at the end of the series, but I am hoping this post is going to drive me in the coming days to finish the series and maybe help you in planning your itinerary. Also please note that I would still like to see Ladakh as the remote land of mountains and it's seeming inaccessibility and lack of commercialization is what makes it so special. I hope you do not go there looking for citylife luxuries, coz if you do there will be someone who is listening to you. And soon Ladakh will be another Kerala.
The northernmost state of Jammu & Kashmir consists of three main regions – Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh. The three different regions have three distinct geological and cultural features. Jammu is the major city in the Jammu region, Srinagar, the capital city of the state is situated in Kashmir region and Leh being the largest settlement in Ladakh region. As you go into the arid lands of Ladakh from the lush valleys of Kashmir, one cannot help but struggle to find relation between the lands just left behind to the lands he just entered.
Wildlife of Ladakh
15 Images from Ladakh in Color
Ladakh in Shades of Grey
Photographs from Ladakh -
Wildlife of Ladakh
15 Images from Ladakh in Color
Ladakh in Shades of Grey
So what’s the big deal about Ladakh?
The arid cold desert that lies at a staggering altitude ranging from 9000ft to 25170ft is going to leave you gasping for breath. A Land like no other bound by two ranges – the Great Himalayan Range and The mighty Karakoram Range on the other side, it is a marvel sculpted by wind and water over time. Barren slopes, unbelievably colorful lakes, lofty mountains, impossible climbs, amazing glaciers, striking monasteries set in the most unimaginable settings will draw you into this Land of Endless Discoveries leaving you wanting for more.
How do I reach Ladakh?
Leh is the only major town of Ladakh region. Leh is accessible by air during all seasons and is accessible by road only a few months a year when the snow thaws. Air India, Kingfisher and Jet Airways fly in and out of Leh all through the year from Jammu, Srinagar, Chandigarh and Delhi.
Leh is situated at a strategic location that falls along the ancient Indo – Tibetan and Indo-Sino trade routes. The ancient routes have now been modified to become the only two access roads to reach Leh – from Srinagar or from Manali. One is the 434km long Leh-Srinagar highway and the other being the 475km long quintessential Mecca of road trips, the Leh – Manali highway. J&K Tourism board runs buses on these two highways with an overnight stay at either Kargil(Srinagar – Leh Route) or Keylong/Sarchu(Leh – Manali Route). Manali is around 14hours from Delhi by bus. You could also hire taxis at a fixed rate at the Srinagar/Manali taxi stands either on a sharing basis or full occupancy depending on your needs. It takes two days for each of these journeys and these roads remain open for only few months a year starting from May/June through September/October.
Check this site for the status of these two highways - http://leh.nic.in/
If you plan to ride your own vehicle on these roads, your vehicle needs to have high ground clearance and the highway passes through the most remote uninhabited lands. So you better be prepared to handle any emergencies on your own. There wouldn’t be any mechanics for miles and help doesn’t arrive soon. More on these highways and the journey can be found at the bottom of this page after the FAQs.
Do I need to worry about that AMS thingy that keeps coming up during every Ladakh discussion?
Yes, absolutely! Leh being at an altitude of 3500meters (11,500ft), the altitude difference is considerably high for us plain dwelling denizens. The air gets thinner as the altitude rises above 10000ft and oxygen levels are reduced by 40%. This means our bodies have to function at this reduced oxygen levels and this cannot happen overnight. Those who travel by road have a better chance of acclimatizing than those who fly to Leh directly. Either way, you need to accommodate for at least a day or two for acclimatizing in your itinerary. Take it slow the first two days refraining from any sort of physical exertion. It is advised to take rest and stretch it a stroll in the city but nothing more than that. Let your body adjust to the oxygen level and atmospheric pressure changes. If hit by AMS the only cure is coming down to lower altitude which would probably spell doom for your trip as nearly everything in Ladakh is at a higher altitude than Leh.
The primary symptoms include Headache, nausea, vomiting, loss of sleep, loss of appetite etc. Staying hydrated is also of key importance. Once acclimatized, AMS is not much of problem. But stressing yourself even before your body gets a chance to adjust could have serious repercussions.
Okay, Now that I have acclimatized, what do I see/do?
There are plenty of things to see/do in this land of endless discoveries. Be it trekking, sightseeing, rafting in Zanskar, exploring the cultural Buddhist connection and or maybe biking on the most unforgiving roads in the most inclement weather suits you – there is something to do for everyone. Since I haven’t trekked much in this region I leave it for you to experience and enlighten me.
Prime attractions for sightseeing are as follows:
The Lake Circuit : Leh - Pangong – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar - Leh
- Pangong Lake, at an altitude of 14000ft is a brilliant blue lake shared by India & China at a distance of 150kms from Leh. Requires one day to visit.
- Tso - Moriri, at an altitude of 15000ft is another high altitude lake set in the desolate landscape of Rupshu at a distance of 220kms from Leh. Night halt at Karzok village by the lake side. Requires two days.
- Tso - Kar and Statsapuk - Tso are two salt water and fresh water lakes respectively which can be accessed upon taking a diversion from Taglang La. Can be done on the return journey from Tso Moriri to Leh.
The Nubra Valley Circuit : Leh – Khardung La - Diskit – Hunder – Panamik – Sumur - Leh
- Khardunga La is believed to be the highest motorable road at 18300ft situated at a distance of 37 kms from Leh.
- Nubra Valley is nestled in the lap of Karakoram Ranges. The capital town of Diskit is at a distance of 118kms from Leh - attractions include the rolling sand dunes and hilltop monastery
- Hunder, 125kms from Leh is noted for it's small population of the double humped bactrian camels.
- retracing the path and a diversion at Khalsar to the left will take you to Sumur, 115 kms from Leh, famous for Samstaling Monastery.
- Further ahead, lies the hot sulphur springs of Panamik, 140kms from Leh.
The Drok Pa Circuit: Leh – Dah/Hanu Settlements – Chiktan – Kargil.
- 163kms west of Leh lies the Dah/Hanu villages of community tribe Brokpa, who are believed to be descendants of a lost Aryan Tribe. Contrary to the stark Tibetan features of Ladakh people, these people have distinct Aryan features.
- Coming towards Namika La from Dah/Hanu takes you through the ruins of Chiktan fort.
- Night halt at Kargil.
The Zanskar Valley Circuit : Kargil – Pensi La – Ringdum – Padum and beyond - Kargil
- 140kms from Kargil upto Penzi La lies the beautiful Suru Valley with Nun-Kun massif rising in the background.
- From Penzi La, you get complete views of the majestic Drang Drung Glacier.
- It takes one whole day to reach Padum in Zanskar valley from Kargil. Leh - Padum cannot be done in one day. Needs a night halt at Kargil.
- Zanskar is virtually untouched by the winds of change owing to its inaccessibility. Zanskar is also known as Land of Religion with the highest concentration of Gompas(Monasteries)
And the grand monasteries of Course.
- Shey, Hemis, Thiskey, Lamayuru, Samstaling, Likir, Stakna, Chemrey, Takthok, Matho, Alchi, Spituk, Phyang, Rizong are a few of the many prominent monasteries of Ladakh.
More details about this after the FAQs.
What about Inner Line Permit?
Most of these areas require you to take Inner Line Permit from Deputy Commissioner Office, Leh. You could ask your tour operator/ hotel manager to arrange this for you. Just the names of all the travelers are required to get the permit. It is not possible to visit any of these places without the permit. It is advised to take photocopies of the same as you may be asked to submit the permit at the checkposts.
Protected Area Permits are required for visiting Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Dah-Hanu areas.
Protected Area Permits are required for visiting Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Dah-Hanu areas.
Where do I stay?
Leh town has all kinds of accommodation facilities – starting from luxurious to budget. There are many family run guest houses which cater to the basic needs and are simple although meals will not be catered to. Pangong, Tso Moriri and Nubra Valley do have a resort set up luxury campsites in these locations. At all the other places like Karzok, Diskit, Hunder Kargil, Padum, guesthouses/campsites/lodges will be your best bet.
Check this link for phone numbers of few guesthouses- http://leh.nic.in/Tourism.htm
How do I travel around Leh?
You could rent a bike at Leh, hire a taxi (Some SUV like qualis) or use public transport (which runs at a very less frequency). You might find that the taxi charges are exorbitant but consider the fact that these roads are nothing like our tarred highways. Rugged, treacherous and untamed would be my best description for lack of better words. Be prepared to shell out anything from 5000 to 14000 INR for 150kms to 450 kms. While you are at it, keep a watch for the super whacky signposts all along the way. Check this link for taxi fares - http://leh.nic.in/Tourism.htm
How about the weather in Ladakh?
It is said that Ladakh is the only place where one can get sunstroke and frostbite at the same time. The sun pierces at this altitude and the winds are very cold. Make sure you do carry a good sunscreen to avoid sun burns and the evenings/nights get very cold. Even the daytime will be very cold if the cold winds are blowing.
How many days will be required for a comfortable visit to Ladakh?
Depending on how much of Ladakh you’d want to visit, the number of required days will change. Reaching Leh by road itself is going to take two days and leaving Leh by road will be again two extra days. Do keep in mind that most of the time you will be traveling in Ladakh. Each of these places will take one whole day or would require a night stay. A minimum of 10 days would be sufficient. If you plan to include Zanskar region in your itinerary as well, note that reaching Padum in Zanskar Valley only takes two whole days from Leh. An ideal time period would be a month or two to explore this awesomeness but all I can say is if only wishes were horses. ;)
What is the best time to visit Ladakh?
The best season is obviously the only time when the two highways open providing connectivity with the mountain town of Leh. May – October would be the ideal season but do enquire about the status of these highways before planning your itinerary. Winter Travel in Ladakh might be an interesting option as you can still reach Leh by air. But in this case make sure you do advance hotel booking for them to make arrangements for the visit.
Want to tread off the beaten path?
There is Marsimik/Marsimek La located 42kms from northwest tip of Pangong which is supposedly the actual highest motorable road as opposed to the popular notion that Khardung La is the highest. Apparently Tibet hosts even higher motorable passes.
There is also a road connecting Tangste to Diskit directly passing through Wari La. This road will save you the detour of going to Leh and the going to Diskit. There is a direct route connecting Pangong to Tso Moriri through Chushul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe. This route used to require special permission from Home Minister Office, Delhi as this road runs very close parallel to Indo – Chinese Border and only army usual treads on this path. But now, the good news is the route is finally open for domestic tourists starting 2010 and you can get the permits at DC office, Leh itself! The usual route will have you retrace the path till Karu and take the diversion to Tso Moriri.
Now these roads are off the beaten track for a reason. These are not completely motorable roads and might only indulge the adventurous.
