The Wandering Soul's Wander Tales..: Guide

Travel Writing Guide: Brief but complete process, from Travelling to getting Published

There was a time when my mailbox was filled with questions about how to get to some place I'd written about or asking me to plan an elaborate, personalised trip for free, very very quickly. However, things have changed over the past few years and one of the most common I emails I get these days is about travel writing. From pitching an idea to finding out the editor's contact, there's a lot of stuff that can feel overwhelming about this line of work. But once you figure out the workflow, the process eases considerably. So here's a quick and brief guide to the entire process from travelling to publishing. I've already added few helpful links as resources in this post. But feel free to google more on specific steps to find out more, the internet is filled with insightful advice on every aspect of freelance writing.

Let's take a look at eight quick steps to getting published.

1. Travel

Self-explanatory but still I’ll expound. Easy thing to do here is going to interesting but rarely covered places. Hard thing is going to the same old destination but finding unique things to do. Either way, travel well to find fascinating places.

2. Think of a story idea/find an angle

Now comes the hard part. Think of a unique slant or angle to sell your travel story. Why should an editor or a reader be interested in your pitch? What’s the new angle you’re bringing to the table? Finding a marketable angle to your story is what will make or break the deal for you. You can't sell a destination or a travel story without a timely or an interesting hook. So work hard on that one.

5 Questions to Ask About Every Article Idea That Will Help You Make the Sale
How to Write Good Hooks For Stories

3. Find a suitable publication

Once you’ve figured out an angle, look for a suitable publication that’ll be interested in a story like yours. Pitching a longform narrative to Lonely Planet is as futile as pitching an exhaustive guide to BBC Travel. Finding the right publication is the key to making a successful pitch. Steps 2 and 3 are interchangeable though; either think of a story angle and find a matching publication or pick a publication and think how you can tweak your story to match their publication style.

4. Find the right editor to pitch and figure out the contact details

This is where I believe most newcomers hit a wall. Finding the right editor to pitch and figuring their email seems like impossible but all you need is some tricks really. Mastheads(a printed list of staff positions) are available on the websites of most magazines and for newspapers, LinkedIn as well as Google is a good place to start.

9 Insider Tips for Contacting the Right Editor

5. Craft a Pitch and hit send!

Once you got editor’s email sorted, focus on writing a kickass pitch. That it should be concise and interesting is a given. But also focus on why the editor/readers should care about this idea and why you’re the right person to tell this story. And then hit send!

30 Tips From 30 Days of Querying

The 6 Essential Traits of Query Letters That Work

7 Reasons Editors Are Not Responding To Your Queries

6. The agonizing wait, follow up and re-pitch.

If you don’t hear back within a week, follow up and then once more before taking it somewhere else. Most editors just ignore the email if they aren’t interested in commissioning the story. Don’t take it personally because the pitch might have been rejected for a variety of reasons that you’ll never know about for sure. So, for the sake of your own sanity, just ignore that gnawing sense of dejection and rework on your pitch to send it to another publication. Repeat the process till you get a commission.

The Art Of The Follow Up

The Real Reason Your Pitch Was Rejected

Finding a publication for your (rejected) story idea

8 Reasons Your Pitch Got Rejected and How to Fix It, According to Top Editors

4 Things You Must Do When Your Ideas Don’t Sell

7. Get a commission. Start working on the story.

Here comes the exciting part. Your story is commissioned and you have to actually sit down to write the whole thing. Daunting as it sounds, get to work as soon as possible and keep it aside for a day or two before reworking on it with a fresh perspective. Edit your work carefully to remove all the fluff. Also it helps immensely if you can provide the images to go with your story, maximizes your chance of getting a commission. So if you have good images to support the text, prepare those images and send an online link for the editor to view. Make their job easier and they’ll love you for it!

8. File the story. Work on edits. Enjoy the glory!

Once you’ve filed the story, wait to hear from the editor on the edits required. Don’t fight every change but be reasonable and object to changes that you feel aren’t keeping in line with your story. Once the final edits are done and dusted, wait with baited breath to see the story go live. Because irrespective of whether you’ve been in this field for a decade or just starting out, the thrill of seeing your byline never really fades. That’s it, there’s no glory. Sorry!

Also read: 9 questions you asked me about Travel Writing

3 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Guide

9 questions you asked me about Travel Writing

Last week I asked you to ask me anything on travel writing and these are the questions that made the cut. So let's get on with it and I hope you find this helpful!

1. How did you get started as a travel writer?

As someone who had no training in writing or mass communication, I took to blogging before writing professionally. I started my blog in 2008 to record my travels. But more importantly to write quick guides for those asking me same questions again and again about my recent travels. While I never had the idea of writing professionally in mind at that point, publishing on the blog helped me hone my non-existent writing skills.

Four years later in 2012, I visited a small village near Kodaikanal that I was driven to write about, not for money but just to get the story out. So I googled and sent the most stupid pitch I’ve ever sent to The Hindu. Surprisingly, the editor accepted the story and it ran in Metro Plus. That’s was my first print publication, for no money.

Few months down the line in the same year, National Geographic Traveller India edition was launched and I saw some of my blogger/photographer friends’ images get published in the magazine. I was green with envy and wanted a piece of the action myself. Who here hasn’t dreamt of publishing with the iconic yellow box? So I quickly googled “how to pitch a photo editor”, “how to find an editor’s email” and shot this amateurish mail (see image above). To my shock and surprise, I got a response, and a positive one at that! I took a chance and asked the photo editor to introduce me to the deputy editor. She did and I googled some more on “how to pitch a travel story” and fired my first pitch for a story. I was a published travel writer with a brand new story featuring words and images by yours truly in January 2013. And that’s my how my journey began. Since then I've written consistently for a small but niche selection of national and international publications. You can see all my published work here - https://neelima.contently.com/.

2. How difficult is it for new writers to get published in magazines?

I wouldn’t say it’s difficult but I wouldn’t say it is easy either. Thing is, it is quite possible for a new writer to get published in a publication. The important thing to keep in mind is that you should have a great story to tell, know how to sell the idea and you’ve found the right publication for your story. I think that’s where experienced writers have the edge over new comers. They’ve enough experience to glean an idea from a trip or vacation. A week spent in Nepal is not a story idea; it is a trip report. A week spent in Nepal chasing an elusive mountain or rarely covered cuisine is a possible story idea.

Read this post for more clarity - No Bylines? Five Ways to Pitch Stories When You Don’t Have Writing Clips

3. Do you have any advice for emerging writers/bloggers?

If you’re an emerging writer, write as much as you can and edit your work with a vengeance. I always assumed that writing well is an innate skill. But soon I realized great writing happens with a lot of practice than just talent. So it is quite possible to hone your craft, might take a lot more work for some of us but the good news is that we can all get better at this. So start a blog or open an account of any public platform and publish your writing to an audience. I cannot stress enough how helpful it is to get direct and instant feedback. Also, invest as much time in reading good stories.

If you’re an emerging blogger, hone your writing by practicing as much as possible but also understand the nuances of writing for a publication vs. writing for a blog. Both are very different requiring unique styles of writing and approach. Read this helpful post detailing the fundamental differences between travel writing and travel blogging just published by my friend Lakshmi Sharath. Decide if you’re in it for the long haul because both require quite a lot of effort and there’s very little intersection in the kind of work you’ll do in each one of these fields.

And read up on the art of story telling!

4. How do you decide what stories you want to tell and what you want to skip while writing about your travels?

Before pitching any story to a publication or writing about it on my blog, one question I ask myself is “why will anyone care about this?” Let’s say I had a brilliant epiphany on my recent trek and I want to tell everyone about it. But why would you be interested in it unless it is funny or revealing or surprising or relatable or evokes an emotion that’s not boredom in the listener?

Our adventures seem great to us because we have a whole lot of context to process it but it is very difficult to translate that feeling to an external audience. So you’ll have to ask yourself, what will the reader take away from this story? If it’s five minutes of a monologue about how great my trip was or me dealing with what I thought were great adventures but were really quite normal, I’d skip that story. A good story should inform or inspire or surprise the reader in the very least. At best, it can take you along on a fantastic journey to discover other worlds within our world.

Also read - Travel Story Idea Troubleshooting Guide, or "Why Can't I Sell My Articles?"

5. Do you take lots of notes while travelling?

I used to but now I’ve gotten very lazy. I need to up my game in taking notes diligently. Because it’s most important task for any writer, to be able to notice and reproduce those little details that make any scene or story complete.

6. How do you find balance between documenting travel vs. enjoying?

Oh the eternal paradox! I haven’t found that balance. I am always at odds on whether I should be taking notes/photographs or just enjoy the moment. More often than not, the latter wins but only due to my own indolence. But it is an occupational hazard you simply cannot escape, to have your head buried in a phone or notebook as a travel writer.

7. What is a good pitch? What are the main components of your pitch, what format do you deliver it in, and how short do you generally keep it?

I guess a good pitch is the one that gets you a commission! ;)

Cheekiness aside, a pitch should have these three things to make a sale -

A concise story idea with a unique angle. It doesn't help to say I went to Rajasthan. I did this and I went to that place. I want to write a story for your magazine. You should have an angle. Think about it, have you ever read a travel piece which talks about all the places writer went to and what he saw? Exactly. So read the publication, target the section you want to write for and think of a story idea that matches that particular section. If it's a newspaper with no particular sections, think of a clear and unique angle to write the story.
You will need to prove your writing skills to a large extent through the pitch itself if you are just getting into publishing because you'll have no previously published stories to substantiate your claim that you can write a story well. Have a strong lead and do not cram the pitch with unnecessary details. Save that prowess for later when you get the commission.
Lastly, you should end the pitch with your qualifications, where you say why you are the right person to do this story. You can tell what other publications you have written for. It is alright if you never written for any publication before. You can say I worked in so and so field, which makes me an expert to write this story or anything else that might work in your favor in convincing the editor to assign you the story.

The general guideline is to keep your pitch within 2 paragraphs but if you're pitching a complex or nuanced story, you can always ignore that rule and write a longer query. But make sure you don't go overboard with providing unnecessary details that'll tire/bore the editor. See a sample pitch of mine here.

8. Which all publications should I contact to get my articles published? How to find such publication firms?

Totally depends on what kinds of stories you want to write. Looking for the selection of magazines available at airport bookshops is one way to find out about all sorts of niche publications apart from the famous travel magazines. The other way is to Google. Wikipedia can be of great help to figure out regional publications. You can also look at other writers’ portfolio to see their published clips, gives you a fair idea on the available market in a similar field.

Here’s a helpful resource on the various markets available for pitching - Where Travel Writers Can Get Published: 16 Places to Look for Sales Leads

9. What is the basic skill or practice that one should work on to improve our writing?

I’d say writing and reading daily. Invaluable!

Also read: A brief but complete process from travelling to getting published (and some helpful links).

1 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

adventure

Chadar Trek - How to prepare to walk on a frozen river in subzero temperatures?

For the longest time I shied away from this trek thinking of the extreme weather conditions. As much as I’d like to call Himalayas home, I am a plain-dwelling, sunshine-loving mere mortal after all. Extreme cold is not my thing and that’s exactly what Chadar trek is all about – crazy subzero temperatures day & night! Think temperatures ranging from -1ºC to -20ºC.

Frozen Zanskar River, Chadar Trek, Ladakh

Chadar means a blanket, a blanket of ice that forms over the Zanskar River during winters. Zanskar is a wild river flowing through the gorgeous ravines and inaccessible canyons of Ladakh. In winters, specifically during January and February, the river freezes and calms down. She lets the locals trapped in the remote Zanskar valley to walk over her and reach civilization in case of any emergencies.

Of course the fad these days is trekkers like you and me who go there to walk on the frozen river for exclusive bragging rights and a unique experience to last a lifetime! And even though we aren’t prepared to handle the extreme cold, with some preparation, as I find out, we can very well trek and enjoy it as well. So here are my top tips that might help you endure and enjoy Chadar better.

Cold is just a state of mind

The day I landed in Leh, the temperature outside was below zero and it was biting cold. I couldn’t last outside for more than few minutes before I scrambled back to the heated room. The next day was no better and neither was the third day. But meanwhile, as we started walking and camping, the body was slowly adjusting to the subzero temperatures and by the end of the trek, it wasn’t that cold anymore. Cold is surely a state of mind, keep saying this to yourself. Prepare mentally more than physically for this trek and you are good to go!

Too cold? Fret not, hand & body warmers will be your saviors

I am someone whose hands and feet get very cold, even with ample protection. So you cannot imagine my joy when I was given these nifty little things that kept me so warm and safe to say, sane. These warmers are small one-time use exothermic pouches that release heat using up oxygen and last up to 10hours or more. They go comfortably into your gloves, socks or jacket and keep you incredibly warm. They are apparently used all over the cold weather countries but I had never heard or seen them until this trek. And from now on, I’m never going anywhere cold without these. This is what they look like - http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Body-Super-Warmer-count/dp/B0007ZF4Q8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389717306&sr=8-1&keywords=body+warmers. In India, you can find these in Delhi apparently. I got these from two very helpful fellow American trekkers.

Update - Tracked the whereabouts! Pricey, but yay! :) Adventure 18 store in Delhi sells handwarmers and footwarmers. If anyone has used them, please leave a comment below on how well they work.
Also here's a handy list of all adventure equipment selling stores in India, check with these places as well, they might have stock too - Camping and Trekking Equipment in India

Gumboots rule the day, not your fancy hiking shoes

Gumboots cost 350Rs and they are hands down the best thing you can buy for Chadar trek. They have good grip, they keep you warm and dry and they work like a charm on the Chadar. Your normal hiking shoes will be comfortably tucked into your backpack while these magic boots do all the hard work. Take my advice, leave your bulky shoes home and thank me later. If you don’t have hiking shoes, don’t buy them only for Chadar, carry your running shoes and walk in the gumboots. I did the entire trek in these knee length boots and have no complains!

Sleeping Bag keeps everything warm. Carry an extra one

It gets very cold and windy by night, two sleeping bags or a liner + sleeping bag is a must. If your trek agency isn’t providing you two bags, carry your own sleeping bag. You need good sleep and you don’t want to be cold in the night. And tuck your water bottle, socks, gloves and whatever it is that you want to stay warm in the morning inside your sleeping bag. Anything left outside will be frozen and super cold.

When in Rome, act like Roman i.e. do what the locals do

The locals walk on the Chadar as if it is a piece of cake! They walk fast and take strides like a penguin on the slippery ice. They knock the ice sheet when in doubt and sometimes they just keep their feet through the broken ice. They know what they are doing. At least on the first few days, observe them and shadow them. Do not cross and go on your own until you can gauge the Chadar. After 2-3 days you will be an expert too but until then, watch and learn. Trust me, falling into the icy cold water is no fun. No, I didn’t fall but I can imagine the horror.

If you fall, rise and shine.

This is a fact you have to make peace with. You will slip and fall, yes, there is no escaping. At least on the initial days you will. There is nothing wrong in falling down, we are not used to walking on glossy shiny frozen sheets of uneven ice. When you fall down, roll over on your knees and get up slowly and resume the walk. If luck is on your side, fresh snow will cover the glossy ice sheets making it easy to walk otherwise be prepared to fall down and get up a lot. Don’t worry, everybody falls, even the locals. It is just a part of the experience!

Keep your electronics close to your heart

Cold drains out charge out of electronics very fast. Extreme cold drains the charge even faster. Keep all the batteries safely tucked in your jacket pockets. If the battery is blinking low, warm it enough and you can use it for some more time. I carried 3 batteries and stored them in gloves and jacket pockets when not in use. Had enough charge to shoot 64GB!

Extra pair of socks will keep you warm in campsites

The only downside of walking in gumboots is that the sweat collects in your shoes and dampens the socks. Yes, you will sweat while you walk but you won’t feel it until you rest at the campsite. While you are walking, your feet will still feel very warm in gumboots. Keep a spare pair of socks for when you reach campsite, changing into fresh pair of warm socks will feel so good I can’t even tell you. It is something you have to experience yourself.

Leh Market has the best stock to deal with the cold

The Tibetan Markets in Leh have the best stuff to protect you from the cold. Ranging from insulated snow-proof pants to warm woolen socks, you can get all the gear you need for Chadar in these markets. In fact I would suggest you to buy woolens in Leh rather than some fancy city shops. Spend an afternoon wandering in the market to pick up a lot of useful and handy stuff. Worked well for me.

You can carry your metal Quechua bottle without the fear of frostbite

When I think subzero temperatures, I think frozen water. But at times during the trek, neither the river freezes entirely nor the water in your bottle. And neither does the metal bottle give you frostbite. You are always given hot water and gloves are almost always on, so no frostbite. And with the metal bottle, you can use it to warm your hands and keep it inside your sleeping bag as well for warmth. So don’t hesitate to carry those metals bottles and flasks if you want to.

Pick up the chocolate wrappers please?

This is not a tip but a request. I collected so many centerfresh and other candy wrappers thrown on the pristine Chadar that it makes me sad. We go to these places and litter like it’s nobody’s business. Please pick up those wrappers and take them with you. I would like to ask people to stop throwing the candy covers but if they are not listening, I hope one of you will pick up the wrappers at least, whatever keeps Chadar clean.

So now, who all are ready for the Chadar Trek?

I just got back from Chadar Trek 2 days ago and these are my top tips to enjoy the very unique frozen river trek. Let me know in the comments if you have any other questions.

82 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

Andaman

Guide to Island Hopping in Andaman, India

If untouched stretches of white sand beaches, gigantic forests that look straight out of Jurassic era and exquisite marine life is your thing, then Andaman might be the destination for you! Andaman and Nicobar Islands are a group of 572 islands in the waters of Bay of Bengal closer to Thailand than to Indian mainland. The islands are at a distance of approximately 1200kms from mainland. Blessed with immense natural beauty, friendly people and relatively low cost of travel makes Andaman a backpackers’ paradise! Of the 572 islands, only about 38 are inhabited and out of them very few are accessible in Andaman while Nicobar is completely out of bounds for everyone other than locals of Nicobar and govt. servants posted in these islands.

This list doesn't cover all the islands, for instance there is no mention of Havelock here. Most of the information is available online but for remote islands and logistics for backpacking. This post covers those aspects.

Complete Itinerary : Andaman, India
2 Weeks in Andaman - Photos of Tropical Paradise

Right Click open to see the map large.

Let’s get to the details then

1. Port Blair

The largest town in Andaman, this would be the entry point to the islands. Apart from few museums, water sport complex, cellular jail etc there isn’t really a beach here. All the ferries would leave early in the morning so if you get here by afternoon, you need to spend the night in Port Blair and head for the other islands the next morning.

If you like what you see here, you might want to consider following my travels on twitter or facebook or RSS or subscribe to the Wandering Soul's very new Newsletter!

Where did I stay?

Coorg Niwas Home Stay

H. No. 106/1 J.N. Road | Opp. Delanipur Petrol Pump, Port Blair 744102, India

http://hotel-coorg-niwas-home-stay-port-blair.hotelsgds.com/contactus.php

This is a clean, simple homestay close to the jetty and the harbor. The market is a bit further away and there isn’t much to see close by but if you are in Port Blair just for the night, makes for a good place to stay. Room costs INR 1000 and above.

2. Neil Island

The lesser known island compared to Havelock, Neil is a 2 hour ferry ride away from Port Blair. Neil is a place that still has retained the charms of an unspoilt island yet manages to give enough comfort for the traveler. Explore the fields, the rock bridge, Sitapur Beach, Ramnagar Beach and Bharatpur beach.

Getting there and getting out:

The speed boat (something between a ship and a boat) leaves from Pheonix Bay jetty every morning at 6.30am. During the peak season, book your ticket in advance as the same jetty goes to Neil, then Haelock, proceed to State Island and Long Island. There is no ticket counter at Neil, to get out, board the ferry in the morning and take the ticket once aboard.
Ship Ticket price from Port Blair to Neil - INR 195

Facilities available:

Bikes can be hired for as little as 250 INR a day to ride around the island.

For those who wish to snorkel with assistance, Niel has options at Bharatpur Beach for about 300INR.

Boating and Fishing can be done too, ask at the resort.

Where did I stay?

Tango Beach Resort, Laxmanpur

Phone No - +91 9434270454 / +91-9474212842

A lovely beach front resort, Tango is a perfect place to relax. The beach is just a minute away from the bamboo huts and the sunset point, the southernmost point of the island is just about 20 mins walk from the resort. Bamboo huts are available for 1000INR and cottages are available at a higher price. I would say this is the best property on the island so far.

3. Long Island

Far away from the tourist crowd, Long Island is as remote as an island can get. Apart from two tempos for carrying goods and 5-6 motorbikes, there are no other vehicles. You have to walk around the island through narrow roads and forest paths. It has no tourist infrastructure and visit this island only if you want to experience life in a remote island, dense forests and one good beach. Lallaji Bay is a beautiful unspoilt beach on the other end of the island and you could either walk through the jungle or by the beach for 2-3 hours or hire a boat to get there. Chances are high that you could be the only tourist on the island.
Ship Ticket price to Long Island - INR 195

Getting there and getting out:

I boarded the ferry at about 8 in the morning and reached by 1 pm. It takes a long 4-5 hour ferry ride from Neil, Havelock and Port Blair to Long Island only on every Monday, Wednesday, Friday (not from Neil) and Saturday. The boat to Port Blair leaves on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. Every morning a ferry leaves to Errata Jetty, if you wish to proceed towards North Andaman, to Mayabunder or Diglipur.

Facilities available:

Blue Planet does offer snorkeling, boating trips and Scuba diving at Long Island and nearby uninhabited islands too, but you might have to pay more because it will be organized exclusively for you, unless you find more travelers to form a group.

Where did I stay?

Blue Planet Resort

http://www.blueplanetandamans.com/

Phone No - +913192215923 / +919474212180

Don’t be fooled by the word resort, Blue Planet is an eco friendly property built around a tree using bamboo the traditional way. The rooms are very basic and separated by bamboo walls, even the flooring is bamboo. Book in advance during peak season as this place is famous with foreigners for its remoteness and Blue Planet is the only accommodation available here apart from forest resthouse. Rooms are available at 1000 INR which can be reserved online and 350INR which are for people who drop by without reservations.

4. Kalipur, North Andaman

Kalipur, is a small village 25kms from the largest town in North Andaman, Diglipur. Come here if you want to trek to Saddle Peak(732m) , the highest peak in Andaman, watch the turtle nesting, experience unhurried village life, visiting Ross, Smith and Interview Islands. Again, this place doesn’t feature high on the tourist grid owing to the taxing journey to reach here, but it is a nice place to explore for those willing to take the journey.

Getting there and getting out:

From Long Island, ferry reaches Eratta Jetty. Buses/autos ply from Errata to Rangat, 30 mins journey. From Rangat, you can get buses to Diglipur. Kalipur is 25kms away from Diglipur, buses ply every 30 minutes and drops you right in front of the resort.

From Port Blair, buses ply every day to Diglipur. No overnight buses are available as the Andaman Trunk Road passes through the Jarawa Reserve.

To get out of Diglipur, there are buses which ply everyday no later than 7.30am and overnight ferry service also exists few times a week. The road journey takes about 12 hours.

Ship Ticket price from Long Island to Erratta - INR 40 (I think)
Bus ticket from Erratta to Rangat - INR 9
Bus Ticket from Rangat to Diglipur - INR 200 (approx)
Auto from Diglipur to Kalipur - INR 250

Bus ticket from Diglipur to Port Blair - INR 300 (approx)

Facilities available:

Snorkeling, Scuba diving, trekking guide to Saddle Peak, fishing, guided night walks to witness Turtle Nesting

Where did I stay?

Andaman Pristine Resorts, Kalipur

http://www.andamanpristineresorts.com/pristine.html

Phone no - +913192272532 / +913192272532 / +919474286787

Run by the very friendly folks of Alex and his family, Andaman Pristine Resorts is located right by the beach in Kalipur and has all deluxe cottages and comfortable bamboo huts. The cottages can be booked before hand, the bamboo huts ranging from 1000INR, 600INR and 300INR can be availed after landing at the resort.

5. Little Andaman

If unexplored islands, really long stretches of beaches, pristine unspoilt beauty, breathtaking blues of the ocean, waterfalls and lagoons are your thing, then look no further than Little Andaman. There is practically no tourist infrastructure and very few make it this far but it is completely worth the effort. Devastated in the 2004 Tsunami, the island has returned back to normalcy and hides some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Andaman. This is a huge island, with a lot of people residing here. It even has two SBI atms and airtel, bsnl work like a charm. It is far but in no way undeveloped. This place is still famous for the swell and lot of foreigners visit here with the intent of riding the waves. Beware of crocodiles in several of the creeks joining the sea. The jetty is located in Hutbay.

Getting there and getting out:

Samsun, a cruseliner leaves from Haddo Wharf in Port Blair everyday at 7am. Tickets have to be booked earlier because locals do travel a lot to and from Port Blair to Hutbay. Another ship Campbell Bay runs between Hutbay and Port Blair, starting in the afternoon at 2pm which doubles up as a sunset cruise too. It takes about 5-6 hours. Speed boats are available too. Ships get cancelled frequently, so do plan on leaving two days before from Hutbay to avoid missing your flight from Port Blair.
Ship ticket - INR 260, cheaper for smaller boats

Facilities available:

Bikes can be hired for about 250INR a day, thanks to the foreigners who have made it here much before us.

Muthu, a local rents surfboards and teaches surfing at times.

Share autos to travel in the island.

Where did I stay?

Sea and Sand Hotel, 1km from Hutbay Jetty.

Blue View Resort, 8kms from the Jetty. Phone No - +91 9734480840

Sea and Sand Hotel is a very simple and basic lodge mostly for locals who visit on business. Room rates start from 300INR upto 700INR. Very close to the jetty but far from Butler Bay beach and Kala Pathar Lagoon.

Blue View Resort is nothing more than few shacks and a common toilet for all built across the road near the beach. Room rates are at 300INR and 500INR. Right across the

General Details

Who lives in the Islands?

Most of us might have conjured up images of aborigines with spears and arrows inhabiting the remote islands but the reality is far from that. Sad truth is the aborigines have been pushed to the very far corners and migrants from mainland are the ones living in most of the Andaman Islands currently. There is large number of Bengali, Tamil and Telugu population living here.

Can I meet the tribes?

It is fortunate for the tribes and unfortunate for the tourist, but as of now no one can visit the tribes. They tribal areas are off limits and human safaris illegal. So if anyone tries to sell you such a trip, decline.

What language do the people speak?

Hindi is spoken and understood largely, in the remote areas, one of Bengali, Tamil or Telugu languages will work. English will work with some difficulty in most of the islands where tourists are allowed.

Can I use my hammock instead of staying in resorts?

I haven’t tried it but I have heard that for a very nominal amount such as 60 -100INR, resorts will let you sleep in your hammock within the resort property and let you use the restrooms. If that is true,

Can I visit Nicobar?

Unfortunately no! Nicobar still being inhabited only by tribes, entry is restricted. However, entry to Nicobar can be obtained by applying for a tribal pass with valid reasons. But the tribes are not weapons yielding naked hunters or something like that, they are developed.

Can I camp on the beach?
Officially it is not allowed unless the registered hotel or resort arranges for camping with permission.

Useful Links
http://www.go2andaman.com/
http://www.and.nic.in/transport/index.php
http://www.and.nic.in/tourism/howtoreach.php

39 comments

, by Neelima Vallangi

FAQs

Surreal Spiti - FAQs and Things you need to know.

Somewhere close to the Indo Tibetan border, lies a spectacular valley about which many haven’t heard of. The largest and unquestionably remotest, hence striking district of Himachal Pradesh is known by the name of Lahaul & Spiti and those who have been fortunate enough to be charmed by this Himalayan Desert valley swear by its splendor.

Glimpses of Spiti - A Timelapse Video
More photos from Spiti

Situated in the rain shadow of the Himalayan Mountains, this valley with its pretty hamlets, patchwork fields, golden hues of barren landscapes and colorful monasteries perched on impossible climbs make Spiti an enchanting exploration. Spiti makes for an ideal destination for people with any preference, be it adventure, culture or just gaping with mouth wide open at the surreal landscapes. And if that is not interesting enough, there is this whole interesting history of Spiti which states that this area was under Tethys sea millions of years ago. Remnants of this past can be realized in the unique landscapes, sedimentary rock formations caused by the tectonic forces and fossils found here and there. And even if that doesn’t interest you, one could always indulge in a wildlife exploration to spot some of the rare, endemic and endangered species such as the elusive Snow Leopard or the age old Tibetan wolf among many.

Before I start with the very detailed posts, here is a ready reckoner to plan a trip to Spiti.

Where the hell is Spiti anyway?

Spiti is part of the combined districts of Lahaul and Spiti located in northern most part of Himachal Pradesh sharing the Indo – Tibetan Border. To the north of Lahaul & Spiti lies Ladakh, to the west lies Chamba and Kulu districts and to the south lies Kinnaur.

How to reach Spiti?

You can reach Spiti only through roadways or on foot, trekking. One route joins Manali with Spiti and the same route extends down via Kinnaur to Shimla. So you can either reach Manali and head to Spiti or reach Shimla and head upwards to Spiti.

Manali – Kaza - Shimla route

This is rugged routes starts at Manali. After approximately 60-70 kilometers, after crossing Rohtang, you will find a diversion at Gramphoo. The road heading straight leads you to Leh while the u turn would take you below to Spiti Valley. The total distance from Manali to Kaza is 200kms and can be done in a day if you start early.

The roads are just about okay until you reach Chattru, from here the roads take a positively rugged turn. Spiti river flows wildly just by the road side and things cannot get prettier than this. Slowly as you descend into the valley, the greenery from Kulu gives way to barren desert landscapes and clear blue skies.

The same route extends from Kaza to Tabo to Sumdo and enters Kinnaur district. This road ends at Shimla. If you have time, it would make for a good round trip to start from Manali, visit Spiti, enter Kinnaur and end at Shimla. And if time is a constraint, you can always start at Manali and traverse the same route back to get out.

What are the places of Interest?

The case with Spiti is as with most mountain places, the journey is better than the destination. Yes, it does have lot of monasteries , pretty hamlets, crystal clear lakes, amazing culture and history. But the journey itself a pleasure passing through some remote lands and scenes.

I shall try to put down the important places though in the order of their appearance.

1. Kunzum La – Gateway to Spiti, after Batal, the road climbs by the Chandra river side to reach Kunzum top at an altitude of 4551meters. As with any pass in India, you’d be sure to be find a small temple on the top of the pass. The views are excellent from this vantage point. Shigri Parbat rising right in front of this peak offers splendid opportunities for photography.

2. Chandratal – The moon lake, the elusive moon lake which can be only reached on foot. Not for long, but for now it can be only by trekking either from Batal or Kunzum top. There seem to be few expensive resorts by the lake side or your best bet for accommodation would be few of the camps runs by the shepherds. Better yet if you have your own camping equipment. The trek from Batal is apparently long but rewarding and the trek from Kunzum top to Chandratal is for the lazy bones.

3. Ki Monastery – Ki/Key is a hilltop monastery located 12kms before Kaza at an altitude of 4,166 meters. The setting is wondrous with the sweeping valley views and the Spiti river flowing down below. Ki is one the biggest monasteries of Spiti and a must visit.

4. Kibber – Kibber was the erstwhile highest inhabited village at an altitude of 4200meters but the now the honors have been taken by some other village. The road from Key winds up alongside a narrow valley gorge while Kibber sits pretty atop the climb. There is another village on the other side of the valley and that looks pretty as well. As I said earlier, the journey takes away the cake while there is nothing touristy about this village other than the pretty colored houses. If you are interested in more rugged terrain, you might proceed towards Gette and Tashigang. It is located 16kms before Kaza.

5. Kaza – Kaza is the largest township of Spiti valley and makes for a good base for your travels in Spiti. It is located at an altitude of 3800meters by the river side. Kaza houses the colorful Monastery. It is the only place in Spiti which has one SBI ATM and a dispensary.

6. Pin Valley National Park – The road from Kaza diverges at Attargu, one heading to Tabo and the right diversion across the river is your entry to Pin Valley NP. Pin river flows gently and wildly cutting through the mountains and that paves the way to reach the interiors of this remote land. You will pass by villages where the population can be as low as 50. The road is bad and goes all the way till Mudh, the last village in the National Park. Mudh is a small hamlet with few houses and fewer shops. A pleasant place to stay to escape the crowd. Kungri monastery, which is one among the oldest can also be visited. Do not expect a full fledged safari to be taking place, none exists here.

7. Dhankar – As you come out of Pin valley at Attargu, you might notice a monastery dangerously perched on a rickety hill top. That, is Dhankar Gompa. Dhankar can be reached by taking a diversion uphill between Kaza and Tabo. 5 kms from Dhankar lies the Dhankar Lake which can be accessed only on foot.

8. Tabo – 46kms from Kaza lies the ancient village of Tabo at an altitude of 3050meters. Tabo houses one of the oldest monasteries dating back to 996AD. The monastery sure enough looks nothing like what you have seen before. The chortens are made of mud and most of the structure seems to be made of mud. It has lot of history for those inclined and the interesting thing is, the main temple has a statue of Lord Ganesha inside, go figure! Apart from this, Tabo is also famous for its apples.

9. Gyu – I write this in good spirit hoping the sanctity the place is still maintained. 2kms before Sumdo, a road goes high above to your left. 9kms from here lies the small hamlet of Gyu which houses a 500 year old mummy perfectly preserved till date.

Gyu was where my trip ended last year but if you wish to continue further down, after Sumdo, you reach Nako and then you enter Kinnaur district at Reckong Peo. From here the route is not as remote as Spiti but there are few places worthy of a visit such as Kalpa, Chitkul, Sangla, Sarahan, Narkanda, Kufri. The road will end at Shimla.

Do we need permits?
While Indians do not need inner line permits, I believe foreigners will have to take one at Reckong Peo.

What are the options for transportation/ accommodation?

Transport is best arranged by any of the SUVs or personal vehicles. Public transport is also available between the villages.

Accommodation options are limited. While you can find quite a few tented luxury camps here and there, your best bet would be homestays, local tents and small lodges.

Chattru and Batal – tents run by locals. Bedding and a blanket is all you will get here.

Losar – Has small lodges with dingy rooms.

Kaza – Decent accommodation can be found at many homestays/ lodges here

Mudh – Very few options. Decent and just about manageable. By the time I was there, few were under construction.

Tabo – The Tabo monastery itself has stay options in the dormitory.

Demul, Komic, Langza – If you’d like to experience typical Spiti homestay, accommodation can be arranged here through travel agents. These are small hamlets situated off the main destinations.

What is the average altitude?

The average altitude of Spiti valley is around 3800meters or so which makes it high altitude. Acclimatization is necessary before you embark on any adventures. Makes sense to climb from Shimla to get used to the altitude slowly.

What will be the temperatures?
Quite similar to Ladakh, the sun will be hot while the winds can be cool. Nights do get very cold.

What is the best season?

Sources all over internet say June to September is a good time.

Although the locals say June and August is the best time with awesome weather.

The road from Rohtang and Kunzum is open only for a short duration(June - September) of time due to snowfall. The valley stays cutoff from Manali side rest of the time while the road from Shimla is open all through the year since it does not cross any pass.

What to look out for?

Buddhist Monasteries, awesome lunar landscapes, Chandratal, Pin Valley National Park, Kunzum top, Glaciers – Chota Shigri and Bada Shigri

What are the lakes in Spiti?

Chandratal and Dhankar Lake are the lakes that I know of.

Suggested itinerary?

Day 1 – Manali – Rohtang – Chhattru – Batal – Kunzum –Losar - Kaza (or )

Day 1 – Manali – Rohtang – Chhattru – Batal – Kunzum – Chandratal(if you are heading out of Shimla)

Day 2 – Kaza – Ki – Kibber - Komic/Langza/Tashigang/Demul - Kaza

Day 3 – Kaza – Pin Valley NP – Mudh

Day 4 – Mudh – Dhankar – Tabo – Gyu - Tabo

Day 5 – Tabo – Sumdo - Nako --> proceed towards Shimla or retrace the same route back.

How many days are required for a comfortable visit?

To do the whole trip from Manali to Shimla, 10 days would be comfortable else only Spiti can be done in 5-6 days Manali – Manali.

While I have tried to give information to the best of my knowledge, correct me if I am wrong and let me know if you need more information.
Happy tripping! :)

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, by Neelima Vallangi

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Table of contents:

Travel Writing Guide: Brief but complete process, from Travelling to getting Published

1. Travel

2. Think of a story idea/find an angle

3. Find a suitable publication

4. Find the right editor to pitch and figure out the contact details

5. Craft a Pitch and hit send!

6. The agonizing wait, follow up and re-pitch.

7. Get a commission. Start working on the story.

8. File the story. Work on edits. Enjoy the glory!

Suggested further reading:

Also read: 9 questions you asked me about Travel Writing

9 questions you asked me about Travel Writing

1. How did you get started as a travel writer?

2. How difficult is it for new writers to get published in magazines?

3. Do you have any advice for emerging writers/bloggers?

4. How do you decide what stories you want to tell and what you want to skip while writing about your travels?

5. Do you take lots of notes while travelling?

6. How do you find balance between documenting travel vs. enjoying?

7. What is a good pitch? What are the main components of your pitch, what format do you deliver it in, and how short do you generally keep it?

8. Which all publications should I contact to get my articles published? How to find such publication firms?

9. What is the basic skill or practice that one should work on to improve our writing?

Also read: A brief but complete process from travelling to getting published (and some helpful links).

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Surreal Spiti - FAQs and Things you need to know.

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Pages

Explore Indonesia’s Raja Ampat – A Comprehensive guide to Asia’s most spectacular Island Paradise

Table of contents:

Travel Writing Guide: Brief but complete process, from Travelling to getting Published

1. Travel

2. Think of a story idea/find an angle

3. Find a suitable publication

4. Find the right editor to pitch and figure out the contact details

5. Craft a Pitch and hit send!

6. The agonizing wait, follow up and re-pitch.

7. Get a commission. Start working on the story.

8. File the story. Work on edits. Enjoy the glory!

Suggested further reading:

Also read: 9 questions you asked me about Travel Writing

9 questions you asked me about Travel Writing

1. How did you get started as a travel writer?

2. How difficult is it for new writers to get published in magazines?

3. Do you have any advice for emerging writers/bloggers?

4. How do you decide what stories you want to tell and what you want to skip while writing about your travels?

5. Do you take lots of notes while travelling?

6. How do you find balance between documenting travel vs. enjoying?

7. What is a good pitch? What are the main components of your pitch, what format do you deliver it in, and how short do you generally keep it?

8. Which all publications should I contact to get my articles published? How to find such publication firms?

9. What is the basic skill or practice that one should work on to improve our writing?

Also read: A brief but complete process from travelling to getting published (and some helpful links).

Chadar Trek - How to prepare to walk on a frozen river in subzero temperatures?

Guide to Island Hopping in Andaman, India

Surreal Spiti - FAQs and Things you need to know.

About me

Features

Published With

Labels

recent posts

Blog Archive

Popular Posts

Find me on Facebook

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